hi, i just had a valve adjustment done with a member of this forum.

the kicking and smoking is gone, except for when i first start the engine. it'll still kick and smoke on a cold start, sometimes on a warm start too, and then go away shortly.

i'm also getting a clicking sound from the engine that wasn't there before, it's a sharper click than the usual engine sounds,

here is audio of it:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxzZYeoggq59UVpTTHpmRzdKMG8/view?usp=sharing

as you can hear, it's more when idling or at low rpm.

what do you think this could be?

thanks

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w123
1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present
1985 300TD turbo oct 2023 - present
looking for biodiesel in nyc

That's nailing or "injector knock". How old are the injectors? If the car was really running like a turd, it may need a high speed hard run on the highway to burn out the carbon in the prechambers.

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Did you listen around as I suggested at different parts of the engine with a stethoscope (broom stick) to localize where the noise is from?

Another thing to try is (with engine idling), crack open the injector line nuts one at a time 1/4 turn and see if that noise, which could be injector nailing, goes away. You are essentially cutting fuel to the injector so if the nailing stops, you have found the offending injector. Wear goggles and put a rag over the nut to keep fuel splatter off you.

The following should be noted:

Car ran on bio diesel for a year or more then back on diesel after source of bio diesel NLA.

You told me the noise started a few days after the valve adjustment, not immediately after.

Engine was hard starting and stalling. An Indy shop changed tank strainer with no improvement.

a clear return to tank line was installed with no signs of air.

Valves has not been adjusted for more than 15k miles. I suggested a diesel purge, replacing primer pump (it was leaking bad), valve adjustment, compression test.

Diesel purge was almost black. I have never seen it so dark. Purge did not help with the rough engine start and stalling. As a comparison diesel purge on my 85 was clear and did not make my engine run better or worse.

On another day, I replaced the primer pump, adjusted the valves, took cold compression readings after valve adj on cyl 1 (300),2 (450) ,3 (425),4 (450), 5 (did not test) via glow plug holes (glow plugs were all dry) , changed secondary fuel filter and the 2 o-rings.

It should be noted most valves were very tight, all lock nuts were very loose! It took no effort to loosen them. My guess they were tightened to approx 1 ft lb.

The worse valve clearance was #1 exhaust, there was none! I could not get a .001" feeler gauge in! Not surprising #1 has 300 psi compression when the other 3 had over 425.

After above work was done, engine started and ran with no more smoke and did not stall.

Edit: All glow plugs were difficult to remove after unthreading. Had to be pryed out with pliers. That indicates carbon packing of the chambers. They should be reamed to see if that would alleviate the kicking.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Listen to Funola, he knows a lot about this motor and fuel system.

300psi with over 400 on the others is a bad sign... I would start with reaming the plug holes, then readjust the valves. A tight valve means it rarely closes when driving, and can lead to burned valve face, or carbon deposits blocking closure. Readjustment after a good highway sprint should help some of it, hen after a thousand miles do it again... then do it EVERY 15,000 miles...

New injectors May be in your immediate future.

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I just adjusted my valves and now hear a clicking sound at idle or low rpm over and above the normal diesel sound. It's hard to discern with hood up, but can be heard clearly when sitting in car. Seems firewall insulation doesn't affect it as much as lower frequency engine sound.

Checked air cleaner mounts, and they are secure.

Thinking I might have to re-check valves. Found it hard to get intake valves spot on. Very sensitive to adjustment. If anything, clearance on one or two may be slightly too much. Prior to adjustment, all valves but one exhaust were too closed.

Going to give car a good run first and then recheck. Then should I measure to warm specs or wait for engine to cool down?

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I like to let it cool overnight. Tightening the lock nut changes the clearance so you have to take that into account when turning the adjuster nut. You'll get a feel of it after doing it a few times. After a valve's clearance is set, I check it with the next size feeler gauge to make sure it does not go in.

Post a recording of your noise.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

allenying, your audio clip https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxzZYeoggq59UVpTTHpmRzdKMG8/view sure sounds like injector nailing (aka knock and ping per this video) by dieselgiant https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dseUEVVGsAw 1:20 to 2:22

After he replaced the old nozzles with new, the nailing is gone 3:40- 4:30

One item I forgot to ask is where was your last fuel fill up? Was it at a high volume truck stop or a no name cheapest $ you can find? A bad batch of fuel can make the injectors nail/ knock. Try adding some cetane booster and see if it helps.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

OK, did some testing. Noise is not continuous. It seems to come and go. Can you hear the clicking sound over and above normal engine noise? I used listening tube and stethoscope but could not narrow noise down to any location.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwXNC-MZyHGVRmVXMWFETGtoem8/view?usp=sharing

Also seems that engine (as seen by air cleaner) vibrates more than it used to. Somewhere here I have an old video. Will try and find it and compare.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

The recording is done inside the car? I think I hear a hint of injector nailing. Make another recording at engine compartment w hood open.

Did you try to crack injector line nut one at a time and see if noise goes away?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

No, I recorded right next to aircleaner side of engine with hood up. Here is another one: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwXNC-MZyHGVam9iM0hKV3pTNk0/view?usp=sharing Not much of a noise. Maybe I am too critical? But it is something new since adjustment. Maybe just too much clearance on one or two valves? I will check that.

I didn't crack injector line nuts. But I did listen to each injector with stethoscope and they all sounded the same. Because noise comes and goes, no instant feedback likely by cracking nuts.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Went looking for previous thread when my car was making noise. This is it:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/345655-new-sound-my-turbo-diesel.html

(The Dropbox Links no longer work. I have the videos but no option to edit here).

Reading the whole thread, I came to part when we solved engine noise problem! Loose alternator belts! Just went out and sprayed water on belts and motor quietened down drastically!

I guess I won't be removing valve cover just now. Very small oil leak can wait !

Next job is to get at the alternator bolts.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Ok, tightened alternator belts. But they still are noisy. Noise still goes away when water squirted on. Might try some belt dressing, but probably need new belts.

This is audio of noise - should be able to notice change about 1/2 way through when water is squirted onto belts. (not as noticeable on recording as in practice)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwXNC-MZyHGVVm9KY2dSdHo1Tms/view?usp=sharing

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

If the noise is from excessive valve clearance, the noise should be even and cyclical, not come and go.

You can also slacken the belts one (2 for alt/water pump since it's double belt) at a time to see which belt makes the noise go away

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Pretty sure it is alternator belts. They are the ones that were not too tight and that I sprayed water onto. Only other belt is the PS belt (A/C abandoned!) Belts were replaced 4 yrs ago.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

A loose belt makes squealing noises, not what's in your sound clip, which sounds more like a mechanical noise. I'd check out the alternator for loose bearing, fan etc.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked