A few tips:

People say to buy the W124 lower control arm bushings (at pivot point on K-frame), since more robust for the same price.

Read the post "red-neck ball joint removal". As you found, it isn't hard to beat the lower ball joint out with a big hammer. Pressing the new one in is much trickier. I found that the new ball joint was slightly larger diameter than the original, which made it even tougher. I used the Autozone rental C-clamp press, though later bought HF's on sale for next time. I vaguely recall I had to use another shell to those in the kit to fit my spindle. I hang onto large ball bearing races and such for similar press adapters. It seemed the C-clamp was going to break. Despite its thickness, I could see it bend appreciably. I heated the spindle's hole w/ a propane torch, which seemed to help. Later, I read Rollguy's tip to tighten the thread, then tap the end of the screw w/ a hammer (other end on concrete floor) to persuade the ball joint into the hole, and repeat. I will both heat and tap next time. A little oil might help, but I wouldn't use grease. There is an adapter (ebay, $$) which lets you use a hydraulic shop press. It is basically a tube w/ a cut-out to pass the spindle's arm thru. But, I am OK w/ the C-clamp press. I tossed the thin boots that came w/ the new ball joints and used polyurethane boots from Energy Suspension (extras I had), which you can buy from ebay or speed shops.

__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Interesting idea, thank you. So basically, lube the bushing with the diluted acid? I've also got a rattling sound coming from around the firewall, which I'd also considered might be that same bushing (I mean, everything else is only 2 weeks old on the car).

Both. I completely removed everything suspension related at both front corners, including the LCA. The bushing for the guide rod there is very easy to do. Word of advice, loosely install the guide rod with the new bushings into the control arm before lifting the control arm up toward its housing as one unit (with the rod in place, loosely). There's no easy way to put the guide rod into the LCA once the LCA is in place. It must be done prior.

That, or I completely missed something easy.

I took most everything out as one unit (spindle, rotor/hub, control arm, guide rod, and guide-rod-to-body mount) and separated it once out (actually, the guide rod assembly is still fastened to the control arm). I was planning on reinstalling those parts all assembled (loosely, perhaps? based on your suggestion).

Yes.. but don't give me credit for inventing that.. it was decades old when I learned it in the early 1970's... LOL
the Ru-glyde is at least not harmful to put on the rubber...and will stop many a squeak... and if you just do ONE at a time... a great easy trouble shooter...

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Is there a MB part number for these bolts? Or can I source the bolts from Home Depot, Lowes or Ace Hardware?

Also, where can I source torsion bar bushings? I don't see them listed here on peach parts.

Pelican has them here in the store. It'll be called the eccentric bolt repair kit, I believe.

Perhaps you mean "sway bar" (more properly "anti-sway"), since it does work by twisting the rod. I bought 2 pairs recently for my W123's, just to have on hand next time I am in that deep (battery tray and/or brake booster off). I bought cheap on efay, but P-P must list.

Re "torsion bar", my 1960's Mopars have them (instead of coil springs). Porsche used them, as do some recent U.S. trucks. Advantages are they keep suspension weight down low and you can adjust ride height by turning a bolt.

__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Taking a quick afternoon break. Lower ball joint on the passenger side is now pressed in with the Autozone press, my electric impact gun, and a homemade adapter to go between the Autozone press and the ball joint flange. Now to replace the lower control arm bushings and guide rod to control arm mount, and then I can start reassembling the passenger side. I should have at least that much done this weekend.

One should consult the pictures in the Chassis Manual .... as the scuffing which would not be correct on other cars may be considered correct on our MB's...
Everything goes back to the Factory Shop manuals....

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I got the front suspension done a few weeks ago and after nine months off the road, I'm driving the car again. It drives better than it ever has under my ownership. My history with W123s goes back to 1996, so I know how they're supposed to feel.

The repair work I did got the car to around 95% perfect. It feels stable and solid on the road again. I'm finally really enjoying driving it. But, I still have an intermittent clunk when coming to a stop. I figured the problem was the one part I avoided replacing - the sway bar to firewall bushings.

I replaced them this evening after work. It wasn't as bad a job as I feared. I did the driver side bushing first. Most of the time involved was taken up unbolting the brake booster. I ended up simply unbolting the booster, but not disconnecting the master cylinder. That worked fine and I had just enough clearance at that point to replace the bushing on that side. The passenger side bushing was easy. I did both with the wheels on the ground.

I only made one mistake. When I bolted the booster back in, the booster pushrod didn't seat properly with the brake pedal. I didn't think to check it until it came time to reconnect the pedal to the booster. Unfortunately, it's late now, so this will have to wait until tomorrow evening. I wasn't planning on driving the 240D tomorrow, anyway. When I get home from work tomorrow, I'll unbolt the booster again and seat it properly with the brake pedal. Then, I'll test drive it.

The sway bar to firewall bushings are literally the only suspension part I hadn't yet replaced on the car. I'm pretty confident this will fix the clunk once and for all.

I thought I posted this, but I guess not. I finished the car a while back, and have now posted my front suspension DIY video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7uN9tJjAYw

I've changed these and removing the brake booster and battery try isn't at all necessary .

Just look over and think the job through, I used some long, 3/8" drive wobble extensions, if you have the control arms off for ball joints the job is *much* easier .

Took me about three hours just for those two firewall to anti sway bar bushings .
They're *very* important but no one ever wants to do them .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I actually did replace those after the video, and did loosen the brake booster from the firewall. Really wasn't a bad job at all.