Please take a look at the pictures and let me know if you think it's seated properly.

I feel like I'm going to damage the tool if I continue to crank on it.

I see a small gap at the top but the bottom looks good. I looked at the passengers side lower ball joint and there seems to be a gap on that side also.

I didn't notice this when removing the joint. I guess I should of cleaned the damaged joint and took photos to compare.

Also, I have some bearing grease that I'd like to pack around the joint before I slip the rubber boot over the joint. My bearing grease is a brown/black color and the grease in this ball joint is white. Is there a recommended grease that I should buy?


Thanks

Pete

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I used the ball joint press from Autozone. You have to put down a $217 for the tool kit and you have 60 days to return it to get you money back.

I attached pics.

This video shows exactly how I banged the ball joint out. I used a 22mm impact socket to pound on with a baby sledge hammer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6YYzMQWW3A

This video helped installing the ball joint. Skip to 50 seconds.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKSJEZaKFOQ&t=40s

pete

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A generic press will damage the ball joint as well. The correct tool applies pressure at the flange rather than squeezing the overall joint.

In any case, it looks like you drove it home. I don't see anything to be concerned about.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

I believe the tool I was using when applying pressure at the flange. I had to remove the rubber boot to be able to get the tool on the flange.

I was very careful when tightening the tool. I swiveled it around so I could apply pressure as evenly as possible.

I guess I'll tackle putting everything back together tomorrow.

Thanks for the reply.

pete

The only way to know for sure is if you had measured the one you tool out and compared the flange thicknesses.
But in the pictures of the part sticking out out of the bottom it looks OK but as I said with out measuering there is no way to know for sure.
note that the edge around is not the same depth and it is not very deep around most of the edge.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The generic C-press did not damage the ball joint when I did it. This is a picture of pressing mine. It would have been a lot better if I had gotten a large thick washer and enlarged the hole in the washer so it fit over the ball joint shaft. The reasonf or that is that the top of the joint where the press goes is kind of rounded an the press shifts around making it harder to keep it lined up.
Anyway the C-press worked and the marks on the old ball joints showed that a C-press hadn been used on them.
I used Lemforder Ball Joints.
The red arrow points to where the washer should go.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks 911. That makes more sense why there would be a gap.

pete

I can only speak on my own experience. It could be others are cut deeper in.
It is always a good idea to take some pics before you take stuff apart. But, if you use a different makers parts sometimes the dimensions are different.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'll definitely be cleaning up the passenger side ball joint and taking photos before I remove it from the steering knuckle.

Thanks.

pete