Hi guys. I have a W123 300D 84 'without turbo om617.912.

I want to set the injection pump with a droplet method.
See the picture. Should I dismantle this item for this method?

Don't touch those!

You only need to rotate teh engine for timing.

Practically speaking, just rotate it toward the block until it starts to knock, then back it off a little and test drive.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

You have the "M" pump. It is adjusted using an RIV tool or "A-B" timing light inserted through a port on the side of the pump. They are not timed using the drip test like the MW pumps.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Actually you can use the drip method on your M type fuel injection Pump but replacing the crush washer and the O-ring on the delivery valve holder is slighly more complicated.

You need to remove that little allen head bolt and remove the sheetmetal clamp and you need a special splined socket to remove the delivery valve holder.

I am not sure same Drip Tube can be used on the M type fuel injection pumps because I don't know what the threads are on the delivery valve holder.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

What is RIV tool and A-B? You can explain it to me ?? Where to install this device

The RIV tool is something that's a dealer item. Good luck finding one. The A-B timing light goes in the test port on the side of the injection pump. The engine is rotated to the correct timing position, and then the IP is rotated back and forth until the A-B lights come on to indicate the correct position of the IP camshaft.

There's an easier/cheaper way. (Free if you're feeling lucky). Pull the 17mm bolt on the side of the IP and rotate the engine until you reach TDC. Have a helper use a strong light and a mirror to look in the port and continue rotating until you see a flat tang (looks like a screwdriver) show up in the bolt hole. Keep rotating until it is centered in the hole, then read your timing mark off the crank balancer. The correct timing in degrees will be on a sticker on the radiator support.



If you need to adjust timing, you can set the crank to the correct timing mark, loosen the IP and move it towards or away from the block to get the tang to center in the window. If it's way off, you'll need to buy a timing lock tool (they're all over eBay or the Internet for under $20), pull the IP, time the engine, then reinstall the IP pre-timed with the lock tool installed. If you go that way, the timing is set about as close as you'll get it with the A-B light.

It goes without saying, but if you pull the 17mm bolt and find the IP is already correctly timed, leave it alone. You can be a couple degrees out of time either direction and the car will still run just fine.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

On your photo is W124 pump.

My IP can not be locked

To use the timing locking pin you need to have the port large enough for that. The Plug that goes over the port I believe needs a 17mm wrench to get the plug off. Note that about a pint of Oil is going to come out.

Something else that was not mentioned is that when you use the timing locking pin, the A&B Light and the RIV method they timing make you set it to on the Crankshaft Damper is different.

On one of the emission sticker that has your valve adjustment specifications it also has the timing specs. There should be a drip method spec and another spec that is ATDC (after top dead center) and that is what you use with timing locking pin, the A&B Light and the RIV method.

On mine that sticker is on the left side on top cross member in front of the radiator.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Post number 29 has a picture of the emission sticker. Also above on the same page is a description of what the timing locking pin does.

On the sticker the initial injection timing of 15 plus or minus degrees is the one used when using the timing locking pin It is after top dead center nor rhe 24 degrees before top dead center used with the drip method (listed as the common method on the sticker)

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Look pics, my pump can not be locked.

In the picture of the timing marks on the front of the Fuel Injection Pump you would be sticking the pump back in with the Crank Damper at 24 plus or minus degrees which is the same degrees as the drip timing method. When the Pump is lined up with those marks on the front you are not going to see the tab in that hole.

So look down through that hole and and rotate the Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft and see if some sort of tab shows up viewed through that port.

The reason for the diffeance in the timing marks on the front of the fuel Injection Pump and the tab isthat the Tab is built into the Governor Weight Carrier and due to the orientation of the Governor Weigh Carrier on the Camshaft that tab will not show up in the port when the front timing marks are lined up.

Also I don't know where you would get one but if you have the Fuel Injectin Pump with the small port there is another type of locking pin for that. At least at one time thiere was.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have normal M pomp from OM617. Block item comes from W124 pumps.

I shoot a movie as my engine works and I will add a link here.

I think it is not bad

Guys look this. Engine working 2-3 mins.
https://youtu.be/HF-0jg_EwrA

Injectors are not new, but spray well. Injectors mixed dn0sd261 and dn0sd265.

I would like to buy 5 identical Monark DN0SD240