all dash lights turn on when driving - loss of power streering W126 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

S-Klasse_Cowboy · #1 11-07-2017, 09:03 AM

Opted to take the Road Warrior/ Tank on the errand I had to commit to which entailed driving approx. 9 hours rnd trip. Overall things went smoothly with an average rpm or nearly 3k or 75 mph; or did they?
With about 10% of the driving left, I had to refuel and noticed a new noise coming from the 3 liter SDL. It isnt quite a ticking noise but isnt exactly a noisy fan clutch either.. hmm, I wonder how i can describe it better... It is very "pulse-like" and will vanish with higher rpm when driving. My conclusion was that I had developed an exhaust leak. This morning ( next day), I again drove the car. My 10 mile trek to work is mostly freeway and on the home-stretch I lost my power steering as well as all of the dash lights coming on at the same time. The oil temp gauge has NEVER worked on the car. I've ordered gears for the odometer repair and was going to fix the temp gauge as well but suddenly it Works! and its running HOT! Fortunately, I am exiting the hwy as anticipated at this point and things cool down very quickly.
Despite losing the P/s and the sudden idiot light show, I never lost power. It reminded me of the mechanical-tuning of a 617, but I always though that type of situation couldnt work on a more modern ( for wut its worth) engine.
I decided to cut the ignition off and see if she turned over again and it started w/o hesitation. All lights still on with all acc functioning. I drove the long wheel-based car the remainder of the way to work where I am now. I had a moment to glance everything over and it seems all fluids remain w/ no external leaks. No obvious smells or anything visually un-ordinary.
Right now I am considering that something has happened with the brushes inside of the alternator and will test it with a meter on my lunch-break. Other than that Im kinda at a loss for words and need some advice.
& for what its worth, the odd noise I had developed yesterday is now nearly non-existent.

I have done moderate research here and have not found exactly what I am dealing with yet. If there are previous threads, please feel inclined to post them here.

Best,
S-Klasse Cowboy

pj67coll · #2 11-07-2017, 09:14 AM

What year/chassis is your vehicle? And did this happen after driving thru a wet patch? For how long did you lose your P/S?

- Peter.

Diseasel300 · #3 11-07-2017, 10:14 AM

If the serpentine belt is still attached, I'd be headed to the alternator first. If it is not functioning correctly, the idiot lights will all come on half-brightness like when you turn the key to preglow.

The clattering noise you have after fuelling could be injector nailing from a crappy load of fuel. It happens. It may go away, it may last the tank.

The functionality of the OM603 is just as mechanical as the OM617 is. The only difference is an electronic idle control, and it'll run just fine with that dead too. If the engine will start, the car will run and drive just fine without an alternator or battery installed.

S-Klasse_Cowboy · #4 11-07-2017, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

If the serpentine belt is still attached, I'd be headed to the alternator first. If it is not functioning correctly, the idiot lights will all come on half-brightness like when you turn the key to preglow.

The clattering noise you have after fuelling could be injector nailing from a crappy load of fuel. It happens. It may go away, it may last the tank.

The functionality of the OM603 is just as mechanical as the OM617 is. The only difference is an electronic idle control, and it'll run just fine with that dead too. If the engine will start, the car will run and drive just fine without an alternator or battery installed.

My belt was the first thing I looked at and it looked intact, and I too suspected an injector causing the racket but the fact that is went away with the other problem arising has stirred up the pot of confusion for me.

For the hombre in Arizona, this is an 86 SDL. Did not drive thru any wet spots this morning in DFW.

PEACE OUT.

S-Klasse_Cowboy · #5 11-07-2017, 11:33 AM

Well the alternator is bad after testing with meter. Now typically I would just replace the brushes, but since I was suspecting the unclaimed noise mentioned coming from the alternator as the culprit, I wonder if I should replace the entire unit...

I am still in a predicament of confusion with the power-steering.

>_<

Diseasel300 · #6 11-07-2017, 12:04 PM

Since it seems it was making noise, it's worth replacing. Cheaper than being stranded or having it come apart and damage something more expensive (radiator made of unobtainium for example).

If the bearings were seizing up in the alternator, it's possible for it to set up some pretty severe "flapulations" in your belt if the tensioner shock is worn. If it was doing that, tension in the rest of the system goes slack and you could lose power steering. Just a theory.

You might add tensioner arm, tensioner pulley, spring, and shock to your service list. They frequently fail and can cause all sorts of problems if they're ignored (cracked/broken timing cover, fractured accessory mounts, shredded belt, radiator damage [ remember - made of unobtainium ] ). The parts aren't expensive and they'll get rid of a low "growling" noise if your engine makes it.

S-Klasse_Cowboy · #7 11-07-2017, 01:52 PM

Problem Solved.
My belt isn't spinning worth a damn LOL

Honestly the joke is on me this time. Everything point to this.

Well somebody can link to the best article for this job if you've got the time.
Otherwise I will do some digging later this evening. Wait the boss is in Austin today, maybe I'll forage the forums instead of work...

Diseasel300 · #8 11-07-2017, 02:07 PM

Make sure the belt is routed correctly. It is possible to route the belt wrong and still have it kinda work

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/1111680-post1.html

pj67coll · #9 11-07-2017, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by S-Klasse_Cowboy

Problem Solved.
My belt isn't spinning worth a damn LOL

Honestly the joke is on me this time. Everything point to this.

Well somebody can link to the best article for this job if you've got the time.
Otherwise I will do some digging later this evening. Wait the boss is in Austin today, maybe I'll forage the forums instead of work...

What component is causing the belt not to turn? Something must be seized or have failed. Tensioner?

- Peter.

S-Klasse_Cowboy · #10 11-08-2017, 10:08 AM

I mean, with adequate pressure applied to the tensioner (downward force), I am able to get the belt to spin. Granted it is not full power, I feel that the tensioner must be the culprit. I've read plenty about this happening to others but never had to deal with it myself. Without applying pressure onto the belt tensioner, the belt really wants to move but just cant quite get up to speed.

I am going to suggest that since I never heard any type of slipping noises that are oh so common, I readily overlooked the belt issue. Either way it shouldn't be too much of a job.

Plus, I can finally put on the new belt I had left over from a previous oil burnin' w124

Is the ANYTHING that is worth replacing while I have all that stuff up and out of there aside from my tensioner shopping list?

Diseasel300 · #11 11-08-2017, 10:40 AM

The tensioner is pulled UP by the spring connected up next to the valve cover. If you're having to push DOWN on the tensioner to get it to work, the belt isn't installed correctly. The belt routing on the 603 is VERY counterintuitive, go back up a couple posts and make sure your belt routing looks like that.

S-Klasse_Cowboy · #12 11-08-2017, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

The tensioner is pulled UP by the spring connected up next to the valve cover. If you're having to push DOWN on the tensioner to get it to work, the belt isn't installed correctly. The belt routing on the 603 is VERY counterintuitive, go back up a couple posts and make sure your belt routing looks like that.

I hope that is the case but honestly that better not be the case!
I have driven the car about 2k miles since picking it up. I know the previous owner replaced the seal on the water pump so maybe he put it back on incorrectly.
Hmm... Well I will check it out in the AM. I have my tank parked in the garage at work.

Thanks for all the advice.

S-Klasse_Cowboy · #13 11-09-2017, 11:58 AM

hmm The belt IS routed correctly. I am pushing downward on the tensioner where the shock articulates.

Diseasel300 · #14 11-09-2017, 12:08 PM

There is a large spring right next to the shock. It is supposed to pull up on the tensioner. Think of the tensioner arm as a see-saw. The shock is on one side, the spring on the other. The shock is only there to dampen vibrations, it is not spring loaded.

S-Klasse_Cowboy · #15 11-15-2017, 11:43 PM

Upon digging into the dreaded process of replacing the belt-tensoiner, Ive learned some incredible news. . .

Let's go back to that inconsistent engaging of the belt. Since the mishap of losing power steering and voltage charge arose with an in-tact belt in the end of things, I chose to replace the belt tensioner, Damper, etc. . The pulleys really wanted to move and at times they would jump an inch or two but never anything worth a darn until you provided downward force to the damper side of tensioner. Stop and think about that for a moment in regards to physics or "german engineering" and you can see where this is going.
After removing the Belt-Tensioner system, made a discovery I want to forget. The crank pulley fell to the ground and made a nice ringing sound of death clashing into the pavement below. Upon inspection it appears the Crank Bolt (27mm?) is shot to ****.

Right now I am considering replacing the engine for now because of a potential seller nearby. Afterwards I could try repairing the crankshaft. Ive read threads about what it would take and it's something to think about I guess.