IP Appears to be off 1 inch after new Gasket Install
 

85 300D OM617

I removed the IP in order to replace a blown freeze plug. I replaced the IP gasket and followed the FSM to the letter. I rotated the engine to 15 degrees TDC and used the locking pin on the IP.

The IP went on without a hitch but the bracket on the bottom of the IP is sitting about an inch from where it's supposed to be (the bolts were missing when I started the project) and when I went to re-install hard lines, they were all off by an inch.

Anyone have any idea what's going on here? The bracket may have moved but the hard lines have me concerned... I mean, they are not even close. All three bolts that bold the IP to the engine are secured.

Year and model? Engine?

If you have the M pump that uses the locking pin, reset the engine to 15˚ ATDC (make sure you're on the compression stroke!!!), pull the IP and shift it over a couple splines so it's lined up where it should be.

With the IP pre-timed, it will still be in-time with the engine at any position you insert it in the hole. The goal is to get it close to where the hard lines are when you reinsert it.

👍
 

Yeah, what he ^^^ said. 😁

Best way to to tell TDC on Compression Stroke
 

Sorry, I am not a mechanic, but am learning. I understand that I have to have the engine at 15 degrees after TDC and that the 15 degree mark can be either the exhaust or compression stroke.

Can I tell if the engine is on the compression stroke by removing the number 1 glow plug somehow?

I can't beieve I have to remove all of this to fix this... man, what a mess

Pull the valve cover. The cam should have a mark on the sprocket or on the camshaft itself that lines up with a mark on the bearing cap. When it's aligned and you're at the 0T mark on the crank damper, you're at TDC compression on #1. Advance to 14 or 15˚ ATDC (the mark for your year/model is on the radiator support) and reinsert the IP.

No need to do that. Just remove the oil cap and observe the position of the #1 cylinder cam lobes.

If the locking pin "locked" and you didn't subsequently move the crankshaft, there is no need to reset the crankshaft during IP installation. You just need to "reindex" the IP to the original mounting position. Remove, reorient, reinstall.

Can be either the power or intake stroke. Compression and exhaust are BTDC.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Thanks
 

I have not moved the crankshaft and this was the resolution I was hoping for. It sounds like I just need to take off the IP and rotate it a few clicks back to where it was.

The only thing I’m confused about is why the FSM specified that I rotate the Ip shaft until the 4th tooth on driver after gap is in alignment with mark. It seems to me I should’ve just put the locking mechanism on the IP remove the replace the gasket and put it back.

Would that be the correct way to do this? I have several of these cars and may need to do this procedure again and I don’t want to have to repeat my work like I am now

The FSM might be covering the case that you replaced the timer sprocket.

In retrospect, you should have scribed index marks between the IP and block before pulling the IP. Keep that in mind for next time.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Only the Drip Method of timing uses the about 24 Degrees before Top Dead Center on the compression stroke.

Whey you look at the number one cylinder Cam Lobes through the Oil Fill hole when it is at Top Dead Center (which is OT on on the Crank Shaft Damper) the Camshaft Lobes will have the highest points pointing up with the 2 lobes forming a V pointing up. From there you turn the crank damper clockwise (as you face the damper from the front if the engine) past OT to 15 degrees after top dead center.

I was able to successfully correct the mistake and the hard lines fit perfectly once again. Thanks for all the input... Def learned a lot during this process.

See you are a mechanic.

That's what I really love about this forum.