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  #1  
Old 12-06-2017, 09:28 PM
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clocking a 617 thermostat housing

I was trying to glean some information on how to clock a thermostat housing from superturbodiesel.com and they seem to be really backed up on approving new member activations.

A member over there (OM616) posted a picture of his clocked thermostat housing. Until they approve my member activation, I can't see the attachment.



Has anyone here done the same thing? Could you post pictures?

fyi - I'm putting an OM617 into a 95 4runner, with A/C. Not much room to work with...

Thanks

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clocking a 617 thermostat housing-sketch.png  
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  #2  
Old 12-06-2017, 09:41 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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You don't want to defeat one of the most important elements to the cooling system. The bypass stat is a very advanced cooling device....if its acting up its not because of that.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #3  
Old 12-06-2017, 09:43 PM
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I wasn't trying to defeat anything. I'm trying to clock the thermo housing.
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  #4  
Old 12-06-2017, 11:45 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Sorry, just going by the thumbnail you attached. What do you mean by clocking the t stat then? Do you refer to the position of the outlet of the t stat housing where the hose attaches?
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #5  
Old 12-07-2017, 12:03 AM
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No prob. I just would like to see the attachment in that thumbnail someday on std... I understand he clocked his housing in that pic.

Yes, clocking the housing like in the thumb pics below so the outlet is shifted rearward.
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clocking a 617 thermostat housing-20171206_205111sm.jpg   clocking a 617 thermostat housing-20171206_205012sm.jpg  
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  #6  
Old 12-07-2017, 12:44 AM
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Fr:

The most obvious "fix" is to proceed with what you show in the first pic; that would involve welding two new bosses to the bypass housing that can be drilled and tapped for the outlet housing screws.
A second approach is to "pie" section the outlet pipe to turn it aft; the dome of the outlet housing would remain in its original position.
Welding required in either case.
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  #7  
Old 12-07-2017, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fin reaper View Post
I was trying to glean some information on how to clock a thermostat housing from superturbodiesel.com and they seem to be really backed up on approving new member activations.

A member over there (OM616) posted a picture of his clocked thermostat housing. Until they approve my member activation, I can't see the attachment.



Has anyone here done the same thing? Could you post pictures?

fyi - I'm putting an OM617 into a 95 4runner, with A/C. Not much room to work with...

Thanks
If you log onto that forum as a Guest, I think you can view the attachments when you click on the links.
Here is a direct link to the url of that photo:

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  #8  
Old 12-07-2017, 12:46 AM
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That T-stat housing doesn't look like the one in my 1984 & 85 300D's. Does your OM617 engine look like that? The user's name (OM616) suggests he has an earlier engine.
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  #9  
Old 12-07-2017, 02:30 AM
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Those types of thermostat housings were normally I believe on cars that had the old York compressors (615/616/617)
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  #10  
Old 12-07-2017, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NZScott View Post
Those types of thermostat housings were normally I believe on cars that had the old York compressors (615/616/617)
That is correct. I found it off a york compressed 617.

Thanks for posting the pic URL. Did he flip his upper and lower radiator hoses when he clocked his housing? I can't believe that would be a good idea... I'm not quite sure what he has going on there and according to the thread - he doesn't remember either.

I'm not keen on welding cast aluminum, so I may try to build an adapter plate. I'll post up my progress if I go that route.
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  #11  
Old 12-07-2017, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fin reaper View Post
That is correct. I found it off a york compressed 617.

Thanks for posting the pic URL. Did he flip his upper and lower radiator hoses when he clocked his housing? I can't believe that would be a good idea... I'm not quite sure what he has going on there and according to the thread - he doesn't remember either.

I'm not keen on welding cast aluminum, so I may try to build an adapter plate. I'll post up my progress if I go that route.
LOL.... That is on my 84 617a, but I chopped it up and made it into a conventional flow system. All the MB T-Stat housings I have seen, regardless of age are a bypass type.
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  #12  
Old 12-07-2017, 11:03 AM
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I'm glad you responded. Do you remember if you just welded a block-off plate on the housing?

I see now that with the bypass removed - you were pulling entirely from the lower hose.
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  #13  
Old 12-07-2017, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fin reaper View Post
I'm glad you responded. Do you remember if you just welded a block-off plate on the housing?

I see now that with the bypass removed - you were pulling entirely from the lower hose.
The MB T-Stat housing is quite complex with passages. As I recall, I cut off the bottom tube that allowed for re circulation and welded a plate to the bottom.

Then I cut off the hot water tube and separated the T-Stat housing from the part that bolts to the head.

As I recall I lowered and turned the T-Stat housing so that the T-Stat neck housing replaced the hot water outlet tube, and what was the cool water inlet passage inside the T-Stat housing became the hot water inlet to the bottom of the T-Stat.

It was like assembling a Chinese puzzle lol.. The stock MB T-Stat controls the flow of cool water into the cooling system. I turned it into a conventional system where the T-Stat controls the flow of hot water out, just like has been done for 100 years.

There is also an air bleed passage that bypasses the T-Stat that I had to reduce in size. Then I routed the cool water hose into the water pump inlet.

Now I know the MB purists and engineers are going to come unglued seeing this.

The casting is not the best to weld, but an experienced welder who knows what they are looking at can handle it. It just takes some time to get the porosity and impurities out of the puddle.

If you just want to point the neck in another direction, the easiest way may be to make an adapter ring that goes between the lower housing and the neck that will allow you to clock the neck anywhere you want?

My goal was to convert the system.

Last edited by OM616; 12-07-2017 at 11:45 AM.
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  #14  
Old 12-07-2017, 02:55 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OM616 View Post
The MB T-Stat housing is quite complex with passages. As I recall, I cut off the bottom tube that allowed for re circulation and welded a plate to the bottom.

Then I cut off the hot water tube and separated the T-Stat housing from the part that bolts to the head.

As I recall I lowered and turned the T-Stat housing so that the T-Stat neck housing replaced the hot water outlet tube, and what was the cool water inlet passage inside the T-Stat housing became the hot water inlet to the bottom of the T-Stat.

It was like assembling a Chinese puzzle lol.. The stock MB T-Stat controls the flow of cool water into the cooling system. I turned it into a conventional system where the T-Stat controls the flow of hot water out, just like has been done for 100 years.

There is also an air bleed passage that bypasses the T-Stat that I had to reduce in size. Then I routed the cool water hose into the water pump inlet.

Now I know the MB purists and engineers are going to come unglued seeing this.

The casting is not the best to weld, but an experienced welder who knows what they are looking at can handle it. It just takes some time to get the porosity and impurities out of the puddle.

If you just want to point the neck in another direction, the easiest way may be to make an adapter ring that goes between the lower housing and the neck that will allow you to clock the neck anywhere you want?

My goal was to convert the system.
Why'd you want to delete the bypass stat system?
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #15  
Old 12-08-2017, 08:37 PM
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Interesting. My 1985 300D has been overheating when sitting a long time at a red light, even in the winter. If I rev the engine, the dash temperature quickly drops. In testing w/ pure water, I didn't see any flow out of the upper hose at idle, and flow when I rev'ed the engine. My guess is the bypass isn't fully closing, though can't figure out how that can be, since I tried several T-stats and even viewed the T-stat assembly in a pot of hot water and it appears to close off the bypass port. I too am tempted to redesign it like an old U.S. car.

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