Spectra Premium radiator quality question - 85 Mercedes 300D - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

marco5 · #1 12-18-2017, 10:40 AM

Hi guys,

I bought a spectra premium radiator off the rock auto site for $160CAD because my original OEM BEHR one was leaking, however it's running a few degrees warmer then normal. Instead of running just above 80 on the highway, it now hovers JUST below the 100 mark which is fine I'm sure but the original OEM did cool a lot better. I'm noticing a 6-8 degree increase in heat with this new radiator.

My question to the diesel pros is this. Is Spectra Premium made in China? Are they quality parts? They state made in Canada but I've heard otherwise. Should I use this rad only temporary until I get a Nissens or a OEM Mercedes? It doesn't leak or anything, I'm just starting to question the quality of it, especially if it's actually made in China. To note, I commute 200KM per day, every day of the year.

Let me know your thoughts.
Marco

Diesel911 · #2 12-18-2017, 11:38 AM

I would email rock auto with the issue and see what they say.

Sometimes replacment radiators don't have as many tubes in them.

I have uses spectra radiators on 2 gassers with no issues.

barry12345 · #3 12-18-2017, 11:48 AM

Sure all the air was burped out when you replaced the radiator? Filled by the top hose with the nose high? Just a thought.

Also was wondering if the thermostat was somehow impacted. Probably the radiator although since new it would have to be quite substandard. . It is not even seasonally hot out now. A quick test might be to partially obstruct the front of the radiator with a piece of cardboard. If temperature does not climb further. It probably is not the radiator. I would obstruct perhaps 30 percent of it for a careful test.

marco5 · #4 12-18-2017, 11:55 AM

Sorry, I should have added that. The vehicle does have a brand new OEM water pump and also new thermostat replaced before the radiator was touched. The cooling system has also been fully topped off and there is no air in it.

There's no overheating, it's just running a little warmer at highway speeds due to the less quality part. I just want to know if you guys recommend getting a $800CAD BEHR in there? I'm willing to pay for quality and should have thought about this when buying the aftermarket part.

HuskyMan · #5 12-18-2017, 12:00 PM

You have to burp the system to get all the air out. Take the top radiator hose off, then fill with coolant/distilled water, then reattach the top radiator hose. I've made the same mistake more than a few times. Once properly burped, you should see things cool down.......

You won't know for sure if the radiator is the problem until you install new mercedes or nissens radiator. If that fixes the issue then you know it was the spectra......

BTW, I have had a nissens in the 1984 300DT for around four years with no problems or leaks.

Diseasel300 · #6 12-18-2017, 12:20 PM

Is the radiator you purchased the correct one for your vehicle? Compared to the original, does it have the same number of rows of tubes? Same number of tubes? Did you use the correct ratio of water/antifreeze? If you turn the heat on full blast, does the temperature drop?

I was chasing a non-existent problem on my SL recently, it wanted to run at 100˚ and would frequently rise to 110-120˚. Had radiator cleaned, replaced thermostat twice, flushed the engine block, then discovered that the temperature sender itself was the fault... Talk about a facepalm. Get a hold of an infrared thermometer and let the engine get up to where it says is ~100˚, quickly stop and at a close distance (literally a couple CM) measure the temperature of the hose boss on the head where the upper radiator hose connects. It should be within a couple degrees of what the temp gauge reads.

marco5 · #7 12-18-2017, 01:11 PM

It is the correct one. Spectra Premium CU473 is the model and it a slight bit smaller then the OEM BEHR. I've driven it for a month and the coolant is full and has no air in it.

It's working. Just not the same way as the BEHR was, it's not as efficient at cooling the engine. Yes, it may only be 5-8 degrees off but that still bothers me. I'll do some further testing to confirm it's in fact the rad but at this rate, I'll just buy the OEM Mercedes-Benz one.

I'm from Canada and I'm running just below 100 at highway speeds in the winter time (-10 now), so who knows what the summer will bring engine temp wise. During city-driving temp is normal. I really don't want to overheat this engine, it's in mint condition and has compression of 360 on all 5 cylinders.

HuskyMan · #8 12-18-2017, 01:43 PM

I used to have a 1984 300DT that acted similar. It only overheated around 75-80 mph. Under 75, temps were normal.....weird. I sold the car so never figured out what the problem was. Losing a $10K engine over a $200 part doesn't make sense......

As Diesel300 says, I'd check out the temp sender before spending a lot of money and time changing out the radiator.....

Diseasel300 · #9 12-18-2017, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marco5

It's working. Just not the same way as the BEHR was, it's not as efficient at cooling the engine. Yes, it may only be 5-8 degrees off but that still bothers me. I'll do some further testing to confirm it's in fact the rad but at this rate, I'll just buy the OEM Mercedes-Benz one.

I'm from Canada and I'm running just below 100 at highway speeds in the winter time (-10 now), so who knows what the summer will bring engine temp wise. During city-driving temp is normal. I really don't want to overheat this engine, it's in mint condition and has compression of 360 on all 5 cylinders.

Find out if you actually have a temperature problem before buying an OEM radiator. That would seriously suck to shell out 800 clams to find out you had a bad $9 temp sender. Given how cold it is in your climate, I'd be VERY surprised if the radiator is the issue. If it were the dead of summer with the A/C running, that would be another story.

FWIW, I wouldn't say that engine were "mint" with compression numbers of 360 PSI. 425+, sure, but not 360.

Squiggle Dog · #10 12-18-2017, 03:51 PM

I see that you replaced the water pump with an OEM one. I have heard that anything but a genuine Mercedes (not just the same company that makes theirs) won't cool as well because of a proprietary impeller design. When, let's say, Graf? makes a water pump for Mercedes with the star stamp on it, they use, let's say, 8 fins on the impeller, whereas, when they make ones to sell to the general public, have to only have 6 fins because only the ones they sell to Mercedes can have the 8 fins. It's sort of like that.

dkr · #11 12-18-2017, 03:56 PM

I have used the aftermarket water pumps on two W123s in heavy driving conditions (climbing high altitude at high summer temps) and I don't believe there is a difference.

There are reviews for aftermarket radiators and the only ones that are OEM-grade are Behr and Nissens.

For the OP, I would try shooting your radiator with an IR temp gun to make sure you are getting the right temperature. You can also fill up your coolant expansion tank, leave the cap off and turn the engine on. While looking at it under the hood, give the engine some throttle and see if any bubbles are popping up in the expansion tank. If you have done this for a few minutes and there are no bubbles, the system probably doesn't need to be burped.

Dkr.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

I see that you replaced the water pump with an OEM one. I have heard that anything but a genuine Mercedes (not just the same company that makes theirs) won't cool as well because of a proprietary impeller design. When, let's say, Graf? makes a water pump for Mercedes with the star stamp on it, they use, let's say, 8 fins on the impeller, whereas, when they make ones to sell to the general public, have to only have 6 fins because only the ones they sell to Mercedes can have the 8 fins. It's sort of like that.

BillGrissom · #12 12-18-2017, 04:57 PM

If it runs at about the same temperature on the dash gage both in hot and cold weather, the radiator is not the issue. A steady temperature over various heat loads indicates that the T-stat is regulating at what it wants the temperature to be (its "setpoint"). Of course the dash reading might also have changed (post 6). Don't fault the radiator's "cooling capacity" except when the T-stat is full open, i.e. no longer holding a steady temperature.