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  #76  
Old 01-22-2018, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
Last point. I used the lab analysis method to determine that I could safely go extended oil change intervals (10k miles) on my cars, which means annual oil changes on Mobil 1 synthetic oil. Once a year, it would not kill me to get under the car and drain from the plug in the pan, but I really like being able to stay in my street cloths, simply put on some rubber gloves and grab the tools, and be done with the oil change about 30-45 minutes later.

So it really comes down to personal choice, in my book.

I REALLY like Funola's set up, I've got an old R-22 can that I'm saving to make a rig of my own, I need to buy a vacuum pump and get on with it. Right now I've cobbled together an old electric sump pump with some PVC tubing, that's been working well for about ten years so far.
My setup looks like it is cobbled up by Macgyver but it works great! Keep these points in mind when you build yours:

1. I designed it with the tank laying on its side with the tire valve facing up near the bottom of the tank for a reason, so the vac pump can be kept running with 7 quarts of oil in the tank w/o worry of oil getting oil into the vac pump.

2. I kept the 3/4" i.d. 1/8" wall clear PVC tubing as short as possible so the hot oil that will soften it does not totally collapse it and stops flow.

3. I used a long nose vise grips for a simple and effective quick shut off valve so it is less clunky for smooth flow with less restriction.

4. The 3/4" clear PVC tubing needs to be softened with hot water so it can be stretched over the dipstick tube. I think the dipstick tube is approx 5/8" i.d. With such a large diameter for the oil path, there's very little restriction which allows the sump to be completely sucked out in a few seconds. The small diameter tubing in the Mercedes Source video topsider demo is a joke. It is so restrictive, that's why it takes so long. Not sure why but Kent Bergsma says in the video he use that topsider with the oil warm, not hot. Maybe the tubing can't handle hot oil and will collapse under vacuum?

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  #77  
Old 01-22-2018, 12:59 PM
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after more consideration, seeing kent's opened up sump, i re-ordered the topsider, i won't need it for another 3-5k miles but i'll give it a go then.
i did notice i was still getting drips many minutes after the bulk of the oil drained.

-

after an email expressing my concern and disappointment about gasoline oil that is not formulated to suspend wear particles etc in a diesel engine, steve kraft text msg'd me from his personal cell phone w/ pics of the oil he uses on my car, offering his direct line any time there is something i'm not sure the front staff answered correctly, saying that he carries so many different kinds of oils for all MBs, he keeps it simpler in the office. he says rest assured i have diesel oil in the car.

the pics are of:
1) liqui moly 10w-40 MoS2 semi synthetic, on the bottle it says specially recommended for gasoline and diesel engines with high mileage

2) motul 8011 x-cess 5w-40 full synthetic, which online says it's for both gasoline and diesel, and on the front of the bottle has api, acea, and mb rating approvals

what a whirlwind, i could've saved a lot of time and money researching if i had asked for specifics before getting oil changes, instead of having trust.

it's still pretty disconcerting that the mechanic the receptionist put on the phone w/ me insisted not to use full synthetic(which was also stated via email) and that there is no difference what diesel oil is.

considering he charges $80 for "change oil and filter, lubricate chassis, drain & replace engine oil, check fluid levels including brake fluid, power steering, transmission & window washer. check tires, belts & hoses for wear & safety 27 point inspection included."

and i spent $60 on 2.5gal of T6 rotella, $15 on filter, it's not so bad to just go. but it is nice to be able to change my oil on my own schedule, ie on a sunday when they're closed.

maybe after i get my engine running smooth, i'll send off for a sample. for now 5k on full synthetic? maybe less w/ a rough running engine?

-

kent in the video says he purposefully let it cool a bit to give it a harder test. he also suggests if you want to cut time in half to get a thicker tubing at home depot or wherever. electric pump sounds nice but maybe manual pump still gets it done.
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1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present
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  #78  
Old 01-22-2018, 03:37 PM
Diesel Preferred
 
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Allen,

Until you get the engine running smoothly, and have lab analysis to help with your decision, I'd stick to the MB recommendation on the oil change interval.
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/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #79  
Old 01-22-2018, 03:39 PM
Diesel Preferred
 
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If you've only got one car to maintain, and limited space to store "toys", messing around with a home-made oil sucker has limited upside. On the other hand, there are far worse things that one might do in your spare time!
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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #80  
Old 01-22-2018, 04:27 PM
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thanks, isn't the MB suggestion 5K for full synthetic?
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1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present
1985 300TD turbo oct 2023 - present
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  #81  
Old 01-22-2018, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allenying View Post
thanks, isn't the MB suggestion 5K for full synthetic?
I think it depends on the engine, 3k on dino, 5k on synthetic, 3k filter change regardless if it's synthetic or not.

Supposedly the OM60x series engines can go longer than 5k, I myself don't go past 5k. Most don't recommend going past 5k on synthetic with an OM61x series engine because it will soot up the oil much more than a 61x.
I'm no expert, but this has been the consensus.
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  #82  
Old 01-23-2018, 12:02 AM
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Talking Oil Change "fun"

That oil drain thing is worthless, toss it out and get an open one with a spout molded into one side, that'll make it easier to transfer the old oil to jugs for recycling .

No way 'round it, oil changing and disposal is a dirty job when done right .

If this shop is the same one pushing you to do a valve job without proper testing, I'd not let them _check_ my oil much less change it .

You're getting there, no worries .
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  #83  
Old 01-23-2018, 12:13 AM
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i would cut open the hybrid pan/container to just be a pan, or cut open an old oil bottle to be a pan, next time i need to.

the shop recommended injection pump w/o testing, just seeing and hearing the symptoms.

the valve job was determined as the most likely fix after many tests with funola, as well as trying other fixes.
i'm just putting it off for a bit, letting time pass and see if anything changes, and saving up money.

thanks,
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1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present
1985 300TD turbo oct 2023 - present
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  #84  
Old 01-23-2018, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allenying View Post
$400? that would be lucky i guess...?

hmm, well a good machine shop would be able to find out for sure what is wrong? the main thing i don't want to do is spend money on something that wasn't the problem.

is finding a replacement head really that easy?

i'm not super knowledgeable or have had a lot of experience on these things.

thanks!
I spent $380 for Edward's Automotive in Timonium, MD to check my 617 head for cracks/flatness, hot tank it, install new valve guides & seals, and re-lap all the valves.


Side note: If you have another car handy you can use any simple vessel (strong jug that can take vacuum) and some hose to do topside oil changes. I usually idle a second gas car to generate the vacuum.

If you're fancy welding two nipples on an old grille propane tank is an easy way to do it.
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  #85  
Old 01-23-2018, 04:34 PM
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i would not think to use an oil that is for both gasoline and diesel but i emailed liqui moly and they said:

Our LIQUI MOLY MoS2 Antifriction 10W-40 has approx. 1200 ppm of Zn. Additionally it has a ideally balanced amount of MoS2 for further friction and wear reducing.

not bad i guess
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1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present
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  #86  
Old 03-13-2018, 03:23 PM
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I brought my car to one of the few highly recommended shops for old mercedes in my area, rheinland motors.

my engine's running rough, with lower compression on first cylinder, and blowing bluish smoke out the exhaust, pretty sure due to burning oil.

valve job was the conclusion that another forum member came to after doing diesel purges, 3 valve adjustments, compression and leak down test, swapping and testing 1st injector, startron, and liqui moly motor oil saver.

so over the phone and in person they already seem convinced that a valve job won't solve the problem, that there could be other issues, and potential he be the injector pump as well, and that I should look for a whole engine, otherwise it will cost more to work on my engine. I have to go back tomorrow when the other mechanic is there to get a closer look, but he thinks he is going to say the same.

I would think working on the existing engine would be better because then you know what happened with it, whereas a replacement engine you don't. I think their logic is they don't know what's been done with my engine to begin with, that's my guess.

should I ask them to do the valve job anyway? and then see from there? i'm pretty sure they will want to do their own compression tests etc to be thorough... which will cost money as well, and it also seems like they want to avoid a rabbit hole of overly expensive work.

or is a used om617 less of a gamble?
i'm not sure they'll be willing to do the valve job if I ask them to.
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w123
1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present
1985 300TD turbo oct 2023 - present
looking for biodiesel in nyc

Last edited by allenying; 03-13-2018 at 03:40 PM.
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  #87  
Old 03-13-2018, 03:51 PM
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Incomplete combustion (due to low compression) will blow grey smoke out the exhaust.

Given the history of this car, get the quote on the replacement engine. Get a quote on having the head rehabbed (valve stems, valves, seats ground, etc).

With the cost of the new engine in mind, have them pull the head. If it's salvageable and the bottom end is still fine, have the head rehabbed. If the bottom end is kaput or the head is ruined, it may be in your best interest to have them swap the engine.
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  #88  
Old 03-13-2018, 11:04 PM
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thanks, yeah, sometimes the smoke is more gray, but there are definitely times when it is bluish. I thought if the seals we're going, then oil burning would make sense.

what about the idea that it could also be the injection pump? this is the 2nd mechanic to think so, but nobody on the forums thinks so. it seems like this 2nd mechanic primarily works on older cars, I didn't see a single new car in his garage.

thanks
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1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present
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  #89  
Old 03-13-2018, 11:28 PM
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The valve seals would have to be *REALLY* gone to be burning oil from the valve guides. You could have some oil slobbering from the turbo too.

Doubtful that it's the injection pump. With poor compression on one cylinder, you're always going to have power problems and poor idle quality. The injection pump can be 100% perfect and the engine will still run like crap and smoke with compression issues.

Shops jump to the injection pump when they're clueless, lazy, see a gullible customer, or any combination of the above. As little as a 50PSI difference in compression between cylinders is enough to cause a rough/lopey idle. The fewer the cylinders the engine has, the more profound the difference will be.
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  #90  
Old 03-14-2018, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allenying View Post
hi, my engine is running rough, with intermittent kicks, and smoking, seems like oil burning. valves have been adjust a couple times. rack damper idle adjuster spring bolt has been changed and adjusted. a few cans of diesel purge have been run, as well as startron. each gave a small improvement but not complete fix. there is injector knocking coming from 1st valve, 1st 2 injectors have been been tested for pressure and spray pattern. compression tests and leak down tests have been done. it seems that there is a leak in the 1st valve, and the compression is lower on it than the other 4 valves. basically it seems like most things have been ruled out, and the next step is a valve job. has anyone paid a shop to do this? if so, how much? i'm going to get a couple estimates, from my shop, and one that comes highly recommended, but i want to be able to gauge if they're over quoting. also i'm a little worried that i'll end up spending the money on it and for whatever reason it wasn't the problem. based on the info i've given, would anyone have doubts? thanks in advance,
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