The reason is the location: inside the cabin, underneath the rear seat. The battery is completely isolated from the heat of the engine, and it's completely isolated from the vibration of the engine. As an added bonus, its inside the climate controlled cabin, so its not exposed to the elements or outdoor temperature extremes. Heat + vibration is what kills FLA batteries, and the w210 solves both of those problems. Battery life of 10+ years is normal and common for the w210. Put the same battery in another car and you won't get anywhere near that kind of life. I just replaced my w210's battery in October... date code on the old one was 2006.

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1998 E300 turbodiesel

America's Rights and Freedoms Are Not The Enemy!

I bought a remanufactured battery for my 300SD in 2010 when I lived in Washington. In 2012 I moved to Phoenix, Arizona. I had no problems with the battery until this year (2017). I probably shortened its life by letting the water run low. 7 years didn't seem bad for a used battery. In went a new genuine Mercedes AGM battery.

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Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/

DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES!


1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles

Try using a desulfator, couple of threads on this topic.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/381776-battery-desulfators.html

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David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

I have only had one battery last this long. Most die about 7 years.


Keeping fully charged is how I do it. For example, even though the battery works fine and the weather is -2, I plug in the block warmer AND give the car a low-amp charge the entire night.


When starting, the response is strong and quick.


Of course I also use Arctic blend oil so that the crank turns quickly.


It seems to me that the most important issues are:


1. warm/thin oil to keep the crank going fast enough to start
2. Battery power to keep it cranking even if the glow plugs do not work
3. Good grounds and glow plugs.


You can start a diesel in winter if you can get the crank to turn fast enough and long enough to get compressive heat, perhaps with a bit of help from WD-40 or kerosene+turpentine mix. Turpentine increases flammability. So does diesel purge or xylene. But the latter can be explosive. I have seen it used in Canada.

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Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6

When I used to visit my mother in law in S E Mich at Christmas, I always plugged in the block heater on cold nights and the 603 started easily with 15w-40 oil. Of course, the battery was well charged after a high speed 575 mile trip from Maryland.

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Paul 1987 300 SDL; 2000 ML; '69 MGB; '68 VW Fastback