East cost under very cold condition. In VA temps running as low as 5F.
My "old metal" as my daughter called a 350SDL is still starting every morning so far. I wonder what is temps when this cars would not start?

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91' MB 350 SDL, with 961 engine and #14 valve head
09' ML320 Bluetec

do you have to hold the accelerator down while cranking, or just turn the key? Just curious..

No Just wait light and buzz go away, wait another 5-10 sec and crank few times and car is on. It's surprisingly it runs much smoother when is cold now than around 32-40 F.

I will post start up today late it's still 10 F outside.

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91' MB 350 SDL, with 961 engine and #14 valve head
09' ML320 Bluetec

The 603's seem to be pretty easy to start when cold. When it was in the upper teens and low 20s here earlier in the week, mine was starting up like I'd just shut it off. Obviously not that cold compared to up north, but for here that was pretty cold!

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

I had an issue with starting my 603 this morning. For the first time ever, I had my prefilter turn into a icey this morning. After about 30 mins and having a charger on it, I was able to get it started.

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

I've found that 5/40 synthetic diesel oil makes all the difference in the world when you're not using a block heater. My 200TD with an OM601 has started at -2 or even a little lower (girlfriend goes to work at 3:45am so, yeah its that cold).

I use Power Service in every tank and switch to the white winter blend when it goes below 32. But anyone most top-tier fuels have anti-gel in them out of the pump. The car just seems to like the additive in it all the time though.

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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

I'm not sure what the low ambient temperature is, but you'd be well advised in learning your MB diesel's particular OM's cold weather starting procedures. That, and a fresh, new car battery. My old 300SD started bone a** cold @ +10°F, IIRC, as I reported here many years ago.

About -15 degs F is the limit on my 602. Thats with a double glow, pedal to the metal and maybe 30 seconds of cranking while she is somewhat firing. Anything colder it needs heat of some sort.

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92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

My 300SDL engine is weak, it BARELY gets started, then again I have two cylinders that are weak.

It catches good but it it climbs up the RPM very slowly and idles extremely slowly, it will die if I don't give it throttle.

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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

you probably need a valve job. they re usually due from my experience around your mileage, despite the maintenance good or not.

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

AFAIK, there are 3 distinct Power Service brand products every MB diesel owner should be, and/or get familiar with.

There's a Power Service product you should get familiar with for anti-icing situations. Walmart Supercenters carry it. IIRC, it has 911 labeling.

Have you done a compression check on each cylinder?

Video:

https://youtu.be/D4qFyr1hN-g

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91' MB 350 SDL, with 961 engine and #14 valve head
09' ML320 Bluetec

mine starts fine with one glow cycle down to about 5F. below that i have to let the glowplugs cycle the full 45 seconds and crank while holding throttle to get it to catch. as long as i hold it at 1000 rpm or so for 30 seconds after start it idles fine. if i don't it misses and rattles for a bit and can die. all this though is mostly due to the 8mm M pump making it cranky. it likes to ping and lope a bit at idle when cold and smokes some but that all goes away once its warm. i always keep a bottle of Power Service additive in the trunk and swap between silver bottle and white bottle depending on the season. i have only once had issues with jelling fuel and that was when i was in chicago and it hit -15F for a few days. i ended up using a blowtorch on my steel fuel lines under the car to melt the fuel then started it with a heat gun set on low pointing at the fuel feed line into the lift pump.

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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way.
KD9AFT
A&P