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  #16  
Old 01-09-2018, 06:42 AM
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not overfill oil,

just adding oil when needed,

without taking note

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  #17  
Old 01-09-2018, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
The engine must have been burning a quart of oil per tankful at that point.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
LOL! There were mosquito foggers that smoked less than that thing when I first got it! With the other leaks fixed and the head refurbed, it's down to a quart every 1500-2000 miles. I expect that to drop like a stone once the turbo is refurbed (leaking seal on compressor side).
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  #18  
Old 01-09-2018, 10:20 AM
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If very uniform measurements in all 6 cylinders, I would suspect that all are perfect and your compression testing method is at fault since very unlikely that all would degrade the exact same amount. It is very easy to get wrong compression readings. The adapters must displace exactly the same volume as the parts your removed. If going in the injector holes, this is easy to botch. The gage must have the correct type Schraeder valve at the tip. Some people refurbish with a regular tire one, which has a stronger spring (much dP to open it). Try turning the engine over by hand. If you feel each cylinder resist as a strong "air spring" and you hear each slowly hiss down, you have excellent compression. If you do have low-compression, do a "leak-down" test to find the source. I just apply air pressure to a cyl at TDC (jam crankshaft) and listen for where it hisses (intake = intake valves, exhaust = exhaust valves, crankcase = rings). Haven't done on my diesels, but could probably use the HF compression test adapters to rig to an air hose.

Low compression will not give noticeable power loss. It would make it harder to start on cold mornings. Ditto on check your turbo boost. Run a temp nylon tube from intake into the cabin for a temp boost gage, or even easier secure it under the wipers on the outside. Soot'ed intakes are a problem in diesels and now in the new direct-injection gas engines. That is because there is no fuel spray in the intake to keep it clean and EGR gases bring soot. I read that some manufacturers are moving to adding a small injector at the throttle body of DI engines to keep the intake clean, since owners fuss about the expense of having the intake removed for de-sooting every 50K miles.
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  #19  
Old 01-09-2018, 10:47 AM
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Location: California
Posts: 125
I am using HF compression tester, and I do check 2-3 time,

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
If very uniform measurements in all 6 cylinders, I would suspect that all are perfect and your compression testing method is at fault since very unlikely that all would degrade the exact same amount. It is very easy to get wrong compression readings. The adapters must displace exactly the same volume as the parts your removed. If going in the injector holes, this is easy to botch. The gage must have the correct type Schraeder valve at the tip. Some people refurbish with a regular tire one, which has a stronger spring (much dP to open it). Try turning the engine over by hand. If you feel each cylinder resist as a strong "air spring" and you hear each slowly hiss down, you have excellent compression. If you do have low-compression, do a "leak-down" test to find the source. I just apply air pressure to a cyl at TDC (jam crankshaft) and listen for where it hisses (intake = intake valves, exhaust = exhaust valves, crankcase = rings). Haven't done on my diesels, but could probably use the HF compression test adapters to rig to an air hose.

Low compression will not give noticeable power loss. It would make it harder to start on cold mornings. Ditto on check your turbo boost. Run a temp nylon tube from intake into the cabin for a temp boost gage, or even easier secure it under the wipers on the outside. Soot'ed intakes are a problem in diesels and now in the new direct-injection gas engines. That is because there is no fuel spray in the intake to keep it clean and EGR gases bring soot. I read that some manufacturers are moving to adding a small injector at the throttle body of DI engines to keep the intake clean, since owners fuss about the expense of having the intake removed for de-sooting every 50K miles.
Turbo boost is on my dash, showing 12 psi, at load,

at idling I hear the kicking,

timing chain is zero, when checked,

IP is 15 degree, at DTC,

EGR is disconnected,
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  #20  
Old 01-09-2018, 12:25 PM
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Oil leak into #1 cylinder is a common 602/3 head gasket failure.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon
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  #21  
Old 01-09-2018, 02:23 PM
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Thank you Sixto,

just drove the car 90 MPH,3700 rpm, for 30 sec,

just to see its capacity,

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