Hi. I have the 97 E300D on ramps & stands trying to replace motor mounts and trans mount. I was provided pages from factory manual for this job - seems very straight forward. But, I can't seem to get good access to either of the upper mount bolts.

- Passenger side bolt is just below the forward exhaust manifold and downpipe union. No room for a socket. I can only get a box-end wrench on there, and no good leverage. Obviously, no way to measure torque when it comes to re-assembly.
- Driver side is obscured by crossover pipe, intake manifold, and a bunch of other wires and tubes. I can get a socket on that one with a u-joint and a couple long extensions going up between the manifold & crossover, but it pops off when I try to turn it.

The manual just says to remove fan shroud, nothing about removing anything else (on this chassis/engine combo). How have you guys accessed these top bolts, and of course put them back in and tightened to spec? Frustrating when it probably shouldn't be.

Thanks,

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NOW: 2017 C43 AMG, 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 1966 230SL, 1980 450SL (for sale!)
PAST: 2006 C230, 1997 E300D, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon Spt Cpe, 1984 300ZX, 1983 Celica GT, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175, 1978 Suzuki DS100
www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com

Just did this on my '96.

I was able to remove the LH top bolt from underneath as it wasn't torqued down hard. I initially was going to remove the crossover pipe because it looked like having it out of the way provided a straight shot down, but I didn't have to.

I was able to remove the RH top bolt by hooking two wrenches together to make a "cheater". I learned this trick from a pro mechanic I knew a few years ago in NM. Put the box end over the bolt head and hook the box end of another similar sized wrench to the open end of the wrench on the bolt. It's an easy way to double the length of your wrench. A photo would do this better justice . . .

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- Greg -
1973 220D, The Prodigal Benz
1974 240D

Here are a couple pics to illustrate. On the RH side I removed the rubber intake boot and laid the air flow sensor aside. I also disconnected the wiring from the EGR valve as I didn't want to lean on or snag it. The wrench(es) were oriented towards the front of the vehicle and I had just enough room to work that bolt off and back on.

Attached Thumbnails

   

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- Greg -
1973 220D, The Prodigal Benz
1974 240D

When I did my 97, I took off the crossover pipe to access the DS top bolt with a long extension and a wiggle joint.

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CENSORED due to not family friendly words

On my '97 I put all my extensions together to make a super ~30 inch extension and was able to reach both top bolts from above. Reaching them from above like this also lets you use a torque wrench.

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1998 E300 turbodiesel

America's Rights and Freedoms Are Not The Enemy!

Greg,
I know the double wrench trick. How did you torque to spec on each side?

Tjts,
So a wobble extension worked? I was using a u-joint and it kept slipping off.

I'll try it again!

Thanks

__________________
NOW: 2017 C43 AMG, 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 1966 230SL, 1980 450SL (for sale!)
PAST: 2006 C230, 1997 E300D, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon Spt Cpe, 1984 300ZX, 1983 Celica GT, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175, 1978 Suzuki DS100
www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com

I tried the super extension, but the exhaust was in the way on one side and the u-joint kept coming off. I'll try the wobble on the intake side and cheater wrench on the exhaust side. I'm just worried about being able to use a torque wrench to tighten.

__________________
NOW: 2017 C43 AMG, 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 1966 230SL, 1980 450SL (for sale!)
PAST: 2006 C230, 1997 E300D, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon Spt Cpe, 1984 300ZX, 1983 Celica GT, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175, 1978 Suzuki DS100
www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com

Just my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt: I don't see the torque value for that top mount bolt as being critical. I went for "tight enough but not too tight" as best I could given the space. I also used low strength thread locker on both top and bottom bolts to seal and keep the threads from getting wet/rusty.

__________________
- Greg -
1973 220D, The Prodigal Benz
1974 240D

Greg,
I did get the Permatex brand equivalent of the blue Loctite for the threads. I prefer to go by the book since I'm no pro mechanic that can go by feel.

__________________
NOW: 2017 C43 AMG, 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 1966 230SL, 1980 450SL (for sale!)
PAST: 2006 C230, 1997 E300D, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon Spt Cpe, 1984 300ZX, 1983 Celica GT, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175, 1978 Suzuki DS100
www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com

There is a technical paper that might help.

PeachPartsWiki: Engine Mount Replacement

Yes, that tech article is printed out, but on the first page it does say "RHD turboed car". So, not exactly a match, but helpful. I've also been supplied this PDF link by a member here, which is helpful. I'm used to having factory shop instructions because I've got shop manuals for my W113. I know the URL says W124, but it includes the W210 in the document.

http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Engine/605_606/22-1260HA.pdf

__________________
NOW: 2017 C43 AMG, 2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 1966 230SL, 1980 450SL (for sale!)
PAST: 2006 C230, 1997 E300D, 1994 E420, 1994 Neon Spt Cpe, 1984 300ZX, 1983 Celica GT, 1976 Electra Limited, 1984 Honda Nighthawk 650, 1979 Suzuki PE175, 1978 Suzuki DS100
www.mbca.org - www.sl113.org - www.ohio4x4.com