I'm finally working on installing the new turbo on Mutt the Race Truck. Tim at Tim's Turbos in VA made the turbo for me and now it's my job to make it fit. It's what he calls a "hybrid" with a T3 base and a T4 (I think he said) compressor. To get the compressor to fit I had to space the turbo out 3/4" (19mm for you metric fans) so it can clear the old EGR passage in the manifold which is easier than cutting and welding a cast iron manifold with 33 years of muck run thru it.

This is a copy and paste from BangShift.

Water jet is the way to go for turbo spacers. Here's the pics.

The spacer and gaskets. My usual powder coater, Area 51 here in Wilmington (much closer to the house than the other guys) now has a water jet machine. $35 later and here ya go!​

In place on the manifold. I'm not sure what to do with that center divider - the manifold is open but the turbo has that rib so maybe it doesn't matter. The gasket I gave them had the divider so that's how they made it. It'll be easy enough to cut out of there if I decide there's an advantage (please give opinions......).

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The tight spot I needed to get the turbo to clear. The passage in the manifold used to be for the EGR, no longer used given that Mutt is a race truck. So this works. The tip of the screwdriver shows the tight place.
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And finally, the turbo in place. I'm stewing over trying to install the manifold with the turbo in place as it would be a lot easier if I can pull it off but a lot of jumble to manage as I get it in place. Back and forth.
​

Tomorrow (with any luck) I'll pull the old exhaust manifold, clean the gasket surfaces, and bolt the new stuff back in there.

As an aside, ME and I were in Jacksonville, FL for last 2 days as I got my 6 month cancer check. All is more than well, like it never even happened. Happy guy here!

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The turbo exhaust manifold from a 1978 or 1979 W116 300SD (MB 6171420601) will not have the EGR exhaust nipple.
It would bolt right in and let the engine breathe easier as well.
(Larger passageways and no turbulence from a blocked EGR nipple)

I have a spare for sale.
I also have a turbo non-EGR intake (MB 6170980107)
and even a NA W115 long runner intake (MB 6171410201).
Send me a PM.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Cool stuff!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I haven't forgotten you for the old turbo. I'd like to get a dyno run and maybe a trip down the track before I send it off to you but at least I'm making progress. If the new one isn't effective (though I'm 99+% sure it will be) I want to be able to go back to the current set up.

Dan

PM sent.

Dan

Do u have a superpump too??

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Sounds good Dan!

Thanks very much!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

How will you add extra fuel with boost? Propane the cheapest,and easiest. Feed 2 psi into turbo,with a 12 volt hobbs switch rigged to wide open throttle.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Yep. Goren built me a WICKED pump - plus 100 HP at the rear wheels with the old turbo. Now I need more air.

Dan

I have a great pump from Dieselmeken in Sweden - in fact, that's the problem. I have more fuel right now than I have air to keep it happy. I'm only allowed to run Diesel fuel - we have rules in LSR. And my engine has no throttle to hook a Hobbs switch to (and I bet your Diesel doesn't either......).

Dan

Another Cut & Paste from BangShift:


Mani-Pedi!
That's right - I pedi'd my manifold.


1) Here's the manifold I've been running. The one I'm replacing with looked pretty much the same but I forgot to take a "before" pic.

2) And the reason it needed flattening:

3) The tool for every job. Lacking a Bridgeport this works well though you DO have to make sure you keep whatever you're flattening - well - flat to the belt. I didn't have a photographer so I had to take a staged pic. Of course, you keep the part moving so everything gets an even flattening.

4) And the final result. SO much better!

I will be getting a non-EGR manifold but I'll run this one for awhile.


The sanding station was a GREAT purchase!

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Looks very cool Dan!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Would u be willing to pm me or just post here and tell me how much a superpump actually costs??

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i got my superpump from Dieselmeken not too long ago. not including the core M pump you need to get plus the injection lines and linkages its around 1200 for building the pump and shipping it. i chose to go with the 8mm elements. i was warned that they behave poorly in a daily but other than a bit of nailing at idle when cold and loping at idle slightly it seems they behave quite well in a 617. its always fun having much more fueling available at the turn of a screw. if i swap turbos all i have to do is adjust the external ALDA to increase the max fuel. on another note Dan whats the estimate on the PR and flow numbers on your new T3/4 hybrid?

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1985 300D om617: 8mm M pump 175cc 5200rpm, holset he221w @ 30psi, large A2W ic, compounds on the way.
KD9AFT
A&P

Here were my costs of a super pump and this is just for reference. The costs may vary.

I did a M Pump conversion. The pump itself cost $100, so assume a $100 core to start with plus shipping. You will need the lines too. Make sure that core has a lift pump, e.g. 2 dog eared pump vs. 3 or you're looking at another $50

You will need to ship that pump at some point to Sweeden. That will cost you in the ballpark of $150.00. So, even before you get anything, you're in it for at least $250.00 to $300.00. I think the pump cost around $50 to ship to me.

The fee's vary, from $1,000 to $1,500 depending on what you want done. Then, assume shipping back to you.

Overall, you are looking at $1,250 to $1,750. This is for all forum members benefit and not speaking for Dan. You should program into your build $2,000