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Old 02-26-2018, 05:37 PM
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steps for replacing w210 abs block

So after much battling with a soft pedal on my 98 e300 I decicdedto pull the trigger on a used abs block and pump. I'm thinking the seals in my block have failed from someone putting the wrong fluid in the brake master after talking to a former tech. My question is, per the mercedes manual i need the pressure bleeder to unseat the check valves in the abs for bleeding. Do i need to bench bleed the abs block before install? Is this even possible? After this, every component in the system will have been replaced. Looking for someone who has done this before.

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Old 02-26-2018, 06:45 PM
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I replaced the ABS block in my W123 and used a pressure bleeder to avoid problems I had heard about from others. I did no bench bleeding and it worked just fine.


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Old 02-26-2018, 11:17 PM
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Out of curiosity did that take care of your problem? I had been chasing a soft pedal and everything was replaced but not bleeding correctly. Found some sludge in the master, making me think power steering fluid was accidrntly added. Ate up the rubber on a bunch of parts.
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Old 02-26-2018, 11:47 PM
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I literally removed the lines and put the new pump in bled the brakes and drove it. I've done that twice on two w210s
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Old 02-27-2018, 09:33 AM
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I think the dealers have a way to actuate the ABS pump via computer, for the purpose of circulating new fluid through it and getting the air out. Probably isn't strictly necessary, but if you have access to a computer its worth a try.
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Old 02-27-2018, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake12tech View Post
I literally removed the lines and put the new pump in bled the brakes and drove it. I've done that twice on two w210s
That's what I was hoping to hear. After all the problems I've had bleeding the lines I think the abs has been the problem all along. Did you pressure bleed or foot method?
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Old 02-27-2018, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by diesellover 92 View Post
That's what I was hoping to hear. After all the problems I've had bleeding the lines I think the abs has been the problem all along. Did you pressure bleed or foot method?
The foot method is a bad idea. Your really just pushing air through the system which is bad and it eventually has to get out somewhere. Aka, seals. I've only ever strictly bled the breeders.
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Old 02-27-2018, 12:20 PM
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the breeders.
They were a great 90's band, ah, good times.
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Old 02-28-2018, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake12tech View Post
I literally removed the lines and put the new pump in bled the brakes and drove it. I've done that twice on two w210s
I bought a used ABS pump assembly off ebay and installed it in my 98 E320.

I was more concerned about how the used pump had been stored. Luckily the seller had cut and crimped the lines coming into the pump, leaving fluid in the pump. So hardly any air to displace.

As I undid each existing line, I temporarily plugged it to keep fluid in. Then I installed the replacement.

I used my pressure bleeder to flush system. With the system under pressure, I cracked each pump connection open a little and watched for air bubbles. Once bubbling stopped I closed connection. As I bled the entire system, I at first noticed some dirty fluid at first two wheel bleeders - presumably the fluid that had been in the eBay pump that I had bought.

Been quite a number of years now. No further problems.
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Old 02-28-2018, 08:56 PM
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So far so good. I havent bled to the wheels just yet. I swapped the abs block and only connected the lines from the master. Had the old lady slowly pump to prime the block. Pushed out the old fluid and debris before i connected the new lines. Even with a partially bleed system, my pedal is much much better than it was before.

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