W211 camber / caster adjusting bolts - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #1 03-01-2018, 05:41 PM

Knowing that the caster and camber is adjusted at the factory, when the car is in need of adjustment (after collision or other event that caused the adjustment to be off), the ca r w I'll need to be aligned. I need to adjust the camber and caster on my 05 CDI, and all the adjusting bolts that are available look just like regular bolts, and nothing special. I would expect to see some kind of cam or eccentric on the bolt or washer. If these are just regular bolts, then how does the alignment tech adjust the caster or camber? It seems that the hole in the control arm mount is larger than the bolt, so loosening the nut causes the arm to move in, out, up or down until the nut is tightened up. I don't want to purchase four bolt kits, only to find out that they do the same thing as the factory bolts. I don't expect the alignment tech to just loosen the nut and move the arm into the correct position, and then tighten the nut. I am not sure what to do. Anyone have experience with this?

RPM55 · #2 03-01-2018, 06:00 PM

The adjusting bolt should have two lengthwise grooves offset from center which engage ribs inside the control arm bushings. The original bolts won't have the grooves.

gmog220d · #3 03-01-2018, 06:13 PM

Looks similar to a W210. There are two bolts available, standard regular old bolt, and the "repair" bolts. The "repair" bolts are grooved along their length. There are three possible positions for each control arm bushing, not a continuous range of adjustment. The standard bolt puts it in the center, and the repair bolts allow you to put it to either side of center. In a W210 that comes down to 3mm either side of center.

Check out the diagrams here:

Mercedes Benz Workshop Manuals > E 320 Sedan (211.065) V6-3.2L (112.949) (2004) > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > AR40.20-P-0230I Attaching Mercedes-Benz Rapid-Clamping Devices > Page 15935

This setup makes alignment easy. If you want to start fresh use standard bolts and place everything in the center positions and set toe. If the car is straight the alignment will be too, at least that's been my experience with our W210.

ROLLGUY · #4 03-10-2018, 03:13 PM

I put the car on the lift today to see if I could get the adjustment I needed without using the caster/camber bolts. I removed the lower control arm bolt, as well as the sway bar link. I was able to move the arm out of it's mount in order to see the slot inside the bushing. I figured if I could get rid of the ridges inside the bushing, I would have infinite adjust on the arm, as the factory bolt would fit on each end (or anywhere in between) of the slot. I drilled out the slot with the same size bit as the bolt, and it worked great! After putting everything back together, I was able to get the full range of motion out of the arm. I did this to the three bushings that needed to be adjusted. I positioned them where it looked best before going to the alignment shop. As it turned out, both the caster and camber on the left side were well within spec, but the camber on the right needed more positive. The tech loosened the bolt and pried, maxing out that adjustment. Another 1/8 inch of adjustment would get it correct, but none was left to be had. I imagine something is bent (subframe?). However, after the alignment a test drive showed a very slight (almost not noticeable) pull to the right. Short of taking it to a frame shop, I don't think there is much I can do. For now, it is close enough. I think this is a good alternative to special bolts, and was not hard to do.........Rich

BillGrissom · #5 03-12-2018, 02:38 PM

"More positive" camber means "top of tire leans out more". Many tuners set the camber much more negative than factory spec, for better cornering. Look at a front-view of an Indy Car and you will see the front tires leaning in considerably. I would consider setting the L side to match. If anything, I thought they sometimes set the R side with more negative camber (lean in) to counter typical 2-lane road slope, so strange your car wants to drift right when already like that.

I have heard people say that camber, or at least unequal L & R camber can cause a car to pull to one side (or was it caster?). But, our 1996 minivan was hit in the front, bending the strut & frame so the L tire leaned in way to much. Even with a new strut and filing the slotted hole, I couldn't get the camber perfect, so it still leaned in noticeably. But, the van drove straight on the highway with hands off the wheel. The L tire did wear too much on the inside. Eventually, when I had the tranny out, I pushed out the upper strut mount w/ a Port-Power and got the camber right. In my experience, whenever I have had a pull to one side, it was due to the tires. If it bothers you enough, you might try swapping L & R front wheels (if tires aren't directional).

ROLLGUY · #6 03-12-2018, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

"More positive" camber means "top of tire leans out more". Many tuners set the camber much more negative than factory spec, for better cornering. Look at a front-view of an Indy Car and you will see the front tires leaning in considerably. I would consider setting the L side to match. If anything, I thought they sometimes set the R side with more negative camber (lean in) to counter typical 2-lane road slope, so strange your car wants to drift right when already like that.

I have heard people say that camber, or at least unequal L & R camber can cause a car to pull to one side (or was it caster?). But, our 1996 minivan was hit in the front, bending the strut & frame so the L tire leaned in way to much. Even with a new strut and filing the slotted hole, I couldn't get the camber perfect, so it still leaned in noticeably. But, the van drove straight on the highway with hands off the wheel. The L tire did wear too much on the inside. Eventually, when I had the tranny out, I pushed out the upper strut mount w/ a Port-Power and got the camber right. In my experience, whenever I have had a pull to one side, it was due to the tires. If it bothers you enough, you might try swapping L & R front wheels (if tires aren't directional).

Yes, the top of the tire was out from the car being pushed against the curb. That pushed the LCA toward the center of the car and maxed out the adjustment. I moved the LCA as far as I could with the adjustment that was available, and the tech said I needed another 1.5 degree neg camber. I think the easiest thing to do would be to grind 1/8" from the inboard end of the slot in the LCA bushing (plenty of aluminum in that area). That should give me the adjustment I need. It will have to wait for another day. The car needs to be driven. Like I said, the pull is barely noticeable, sorta like a slightly under-inflated tire......Rich