Timing Chain Tensioner leaks on my E300. Never seen this or have experience. It is the highest point of the leak, not the valve cover.

Is there an o-ring, or do I have to replace the whole tensioner? Advice. Thank you.

Jake

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

Did you mean to post a picture ?
And exactly what engine do you have ?

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

If it's anything like the 603, there's just an aluminum sealing ring in there. Try tightening the tensioner.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

it's an om606. no picture there isn't quite a point. it's cut and dry.

I'd love to know if it's as simple as tightening the tensioner.

__________________
Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

Looking up pictures of the 606 tensioner, it's VERY similiar, if not identical to the 603, complete with the aluminum sealing ring. Try tightening the big bolt head (tensioner body) and see if the leak stops. If not, you'll want to replace the crush washer.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

That particular seal is very easy to mess up. Tightening is worth a try, but you'll probably end up R&R the tensioner to install a new seal.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Thanks guy should I just replace the tensioner all together? if I remove it?

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

May as well, cheap enough, and good insurance for keeping the chain tight.
Recently I held an om606.910 tensioner and in comparison with a 602/3 unit, they are similar but have a different depth.
I'd imagine the crush washer would interchange but not the tensioner itself

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97 e300d, 78 300Dt, 95 E300d, 94 E320 estate

The cylinder head is aluminum. I'd be wary of simply "tightening it some more". If you strip out those threads, you'll be in a world of trouble.

I vote for replacing the seal ring only, and torquing the tensioner to spec. I can look up the spec if you need it.

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1998 E300 turbodiesel

America's Rights and Freedoms Are Not The Enemy!

If you have the spec that'd be great. I'm gonna locate the seal ring part number as well.

I'm also not a huge fan of trying to tighten a tensioner in an aluminum head. Sounds risky...

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

Can the tensioner be cleaned and reused with new washer or straight out replace with OEM ?
Cheers from Australia
Peter

If you tighten or re-tighten it with a torque wrench to the proper torque there should be no issues.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel