So today I decided to change my motor mounts and I've almost accomplished this but I just can't get the damn motor aligned with them. Any tips for this?

Also In the service manual it mentioned something about an "engine stop" which bolts to the crossmember near the front of the engine, which is noticeably absent from my car. Is this something I should be concerned about?

For those who were wondering I used two of the right side mounts as the left one is NLA.

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1973 220D ~135k Mi
1979 Ford F100 300 I6 - 225k Mi

I think I read that doing one side at a time possibly avoids this problem. Am I correct in assuming that neither side is bolted up right now?

What is holding up the engine right now? Can it move at all (like a rolling jack?)

I recall that it may take a lot of force with a crowbar to move the engine over. Maybe having a second set of hands would do it. One person to move the engine over, and one person to get the bolts installed.

I just found a comment from pp member IDLE on another thread: "I usually loosen the nuts holding the engine mounting arm and this gives you a bit of wiggle room. It takes some time to do it right so don't expect this to go as quickly as if you were doing motor mounts in a Ford."

My 220d also doesn't have the engine stop and it has never been an issue. So I wouldn't worry about that.

Hope it goes okay.

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

Right now it's resting on the mounts but the holes are off center.
I've tried to wiggling it around with my floor jack but to no avail.

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1973 220D ~135k Mi
1979 Ford F100 300 I6 - 225k Mi

Did someone say this was supposed to work ?
perhaps molding new rubber to the broken side metal parts is the answer....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

After seeing this thread last night, I spent some time looking at the right and left mounts online. While the design is very different, I think that may be to achieve different amounts of compliance. The fasteners appear to all line up, so I think that the OP did should work (in theory).

I wonder if the driveshaft and diff have shifted somewhat. If the trans mount and diff mount are old, I could imagine the whole thing moving relative to the body of the car.

If things have shifted, I think your only choice is to force them back. Having two sets of hands would probably make that easier, so maybe finding a helper is the key.

To the OP... are both holes misaligned in the same direction, suggesting that the engine needs to move front or back only? or are the holes misaligned differently, suggesting that the engine needs to be twisted/rotated to get it into position?

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

I got one of them bolted
The other needs the engine to swivel ever so slightly to the right

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1973 220D ~135k Mi
1979 Ford F100 300 I6 - 225k Mi

Perhaps wood blocks and your car wind up car jack could push in the right direction.. on the block...

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Managed to get it to about a millimeter difference then forced the bolt in with some rachet extensions and a hammer

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1973 220D ~135k Mi
1979 Ford F100 300 I6 - 225k Mi

Glad it worked out in the end. So, if you have time, would you share any other details that helped you get this done? If you had to do it again, is there anything you would do differently? I have this job ahead of me, so any help you can provide is appreciated. Thanks.

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

Firstly as I said the right side mount is NLA but two left ones works just as well
Secondly, on the driver's side, one of the bolts (mount to subframe) can only be dealt with from under the car and the other can only be dealt with from the wheel well. I had to use an Allen key for the as a socket wouldn't fit in there. You may have an easier time if your car doesn't have power steering.

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1973 220D ~135k Mi
1979 Ford F100 300 I6 - 225k Mi

I'd definately recommend doing one side at a time. Glad you whipped it!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.