So there's s a 420sel in the yard and by the Mercedes Gods my brother and I got first dibs!

Question is, how do I get the differential out? Being this is a junkyard, they don't allow jacks in, is there a way I can just drop the whole subframe and pick out what I need?


Also what tools do you recommend I bring?

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

bit the bullet and pay the 50 or 75 to have the yard worker pull it.

Why you need to take the subframe out? I can't remember what I did but I think I removed the flex disk, the drive shafts ( split type ). Undo a few bolts and it dropped down. Or you might need to undo the back plate, pull the circlips to release the complete drive shafts. Either way is easy.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

If they don't allow jacks, you're going to have to ask the yard to help, or suggest a solution. It's sometimes easier to drop the whole subframe, sometimes you can just drop the pumpkin. Either way, you have to be able to support the car. As for tools, a good socket set, obviously. Some long closed end wrenches for the flange bolts. You'll have to pull the axles, so you'll need some XZN sockets. Unless you want to take it with the hubs, in which case an electric impact gun will help you disconnect the bones.

What would be a good way to drop it? I don't think droping will hurt it, I can just put a seat under it.

The rear end is getting worse and worse, it's clunking harder and louder than ever.


I thought it would stay in place because of the axle shafts.

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

Disconnect the guibo, brake cable, brake hoses. Undo the top shock bolts and the sway bar. Putt a hydraulic jack under the pumpkin and put the weight of the rear on it. Remove the four bolts holding the subframe, and lower the jack, as long as the cups aren’t rusty the whole shebang will drop straight down: hubs. Shocks, control arms, axles, diff and brakes. Mercedes borrowed the idea from Jaguar , makes it easy to service when you drop it as a unit. Then unbolt what you need like a gentleman, or load the whole assembly into your truck.

Almost forgot... begin by ditching the wheels and exhaust.

You needn't touch the exhaust nor drop the sub frame although it's makes reaching the top bolts *much* easier .

I've done this my ownself lying on an old seat bottom it took quite some time getting those top bolts out as I could only turn them 1/2 turn at a time .

Doing it your self gives you a good idea on what to expect putting it in @ home later on .

Consider asking the yard ape of he'll yank it for you and install it in your car for $200, money well spent .

Remember to change the Guido (rubber drive flange) as they age out and having one let go usually destroys the car B.E.R. .


Once installed drain and refill it, adding a rare earth magnet to both drain and fill plugs, $6 @ Harbor Freight for a tube of them .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Dropping the subframe makes installation easier, too.

Usually a bad differential diagnoses is noise (whining) and even grinding / catching. Clunking could also be a failed rubber flex plate (guibo?) and/or failed differential mounts, have you made sure that is not your issue?

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Add to that list:
- Driveshaft bearings
- Driveshaft expansion joint
- Carrier bearing
- Driveshaft yoke splines
- Wear in transmission
- Worn axle half-shafts

The point is just going after the diff is a "random shotgun" approach to solving a noise. Swapping the diff may not even solve the issue or it may make it even worse. Identify the cause, then work on a solution.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Didn't know all of those could contribute too.

__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

If they are half shafts then just remove the 6 bolts holding them. If not, remove the diff back cover, remove the circlips. When you drop the diff, the axles will slide out. Btdt, piece of cake.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.