Help needed with oil cooler lines... on a Gwagen! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Old 300G · #1 05-24-2018, 01:44 AM

Hello group! I really need help figuring this out!

I have a 1979 Mercedes Gwagen. It came with a 617 NA motor which was swapped out to a 617A years ago, from a 1984 300SD.

The lower oil hose was showing the typical early signs of seepage so I decided to replace both lines. The issue is that I can't figure out which lines it had, and what will work now. I've been struggling with this for weeks now... mostly waiting on parts.

The upper hose is a specific Gwagen hose that I just got in from Germany. The lower hose is a replacement 126 hose from The "source" and is seems really nice quality. The upper hose differs from the car hoses because of how the Gwagen's power steering is set up, etc.. The lower hose should be a 126 hose since the lower Gwagen hose hits the 617A's IP and lifter pump.

It feels like the upper hose would fit best if it was resting in the clamp bracket on the block side of it. It will only sit on the outer part of it as the two hoses hit each other the other way around. The bind up as seen in the pic and hit each other on the other side of the bracket as well.

Does anyone have a clear pic of a 126's oil hoses around this part of the engine? Im lucky in that I dont have all the vacuum stuff, etc.. you guys do so I have decent access to this side of the motor but thought maybe you could still see that area or maybe a pic of a motor out of the car.. (I used to drive a 300D everyday for years)

I did find one pic of a motor and it shows the lower line in front on the bracket and the upper sitting nearer the block.

ROLLGUY · #2 05-24-2018, 11:07 AM

I don't have a photo, but how about rebuilding your old hoses? That way you could use the old metal pipes that fit correctly (I assume the original hoses fit like you would like the new ones to do). There are many threads here. They range from welding on A/N fittings so replaceable rubber or braided SS hoses can be attached, to clamping on hydraulic hose with hose clamps. I actually use A/C hose, as I have the materials (#12 hose and sleeves) and a Mastercool crimper.

Old 300G · #3 05-24-2018, 03:34 PM

Thanks but I've been down that road already. This vehicle does remote 4x4 exploration too and I need to stick to factory parts as much as possible, for reliability.

I also had a top SoCal hyd. shop look at rebuilding them and he said (with 25 years experience) that a rebuild would not be advised and refused to do it.

NZScott · #4 05-24-2018, 06:42 PM

I don't see why a hydraulic shop wouldn't do it. It's a hell of a lot lower pressure than what they see on a regular basis, I got a hydraulic place to fix up a power steering leak while on a road trip and it wasn't an issue at all. I have all the bits to change to AN fittings and hoses when I can be bothered on my car. Just as good as the stock lines reliability wise.

ROLLGUY · #5 05-24-2018, 07:08 PM

It could be that the hose is metric. The closest size is 5/8 ID. The factory hoses are beadlock type, so most places will not cut off the ferrules to install new hose. I agree that there is way less pressure than any hydraulic hose, so crimping new hose on the barb of the metal pipes will be no problem. Although I don't do it this way, it is best to weld on flare fittings and have hoses made. That way the metal parts do not need to be removed to repair the hoses.

Clemson88 · #6 05-24-2018, 09:01 PM

Cline Hydraulics in Greenville assured me that they would far outlast the originals. They used the ends on the factory hoses and fix them so that I can change them by just replacing the stainless steel and not concern myself with the oil cooler, oil filter housing or the bracket which secured the hard pipe.

I'd laugh if anyone criticized my choice solution to oil cooling lines.

ROLLGUY · #7 05-25-2018, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clemson88

Cline Hydraulics in Greenville assured me that they would far outlast the originals. They used the ends on the factory hoses and fix them so that I can change them by just replacing the stainless steel and not concern myself with the oil cooler, oil filter housing or the bracket which secured the hard pipe.

I'd laugh if anyone criticized my choice solution to oil cooling lines.

Are you kidding? That is absolutely the best way to go!

Clemson88 · #8 05-25-2018, 12:22 PM

They were easy to install too. They came with the nuts loose so I matched them to a picture of the originals and turned the necks until they appeared to be similar. Then I installed all four with the fittings loose, affixed the bracket then fitted the flexible sections.

It feels good that the next time there is a leak or weep in the lines the fittings on the oil cooler and oil filter housing won't be a factor. One would just have to loosen the flex connectors to drain the lines and replace the faulty part.

I look forward to living long enough to change them. The price won't be nearly as much since the fittings are standard to the local hydraulics company. They were only 125 bucks. It just occurred to me that draining the oil cooler would be a fairly simple task with those in place.