Disable Drive Authorization System (DAS) on 1996 W210 E300?
 

Is it possible to completely disable the DAS on a 1996 W210 E300? Presumably this would have to be done by a dealership, but can even they do it?

Mine has a gremlin I just can't seem to shake. Last time this happened, several months ago, I attributed it to low battery voltage. (The charging system is fine, but the battery's resting voltage, even after a fresh charge, had dropped to about 12.2.) But it now has a new battery, so that shouldn't be the cause.

I would gladly pay a dealership's labor rate to exorcise this demon for good. Yes, I know that would make my 22-year-old car with cosmetic issues a prime target for thieves, but hey, I'll take that risk.

Paul
Arlington VA

What are the specific symptoms?

Gas cars of that era used a starter interrupt relay that can be jumpered.

If you can get a hold of a wiring diagram that would be helpful in tracking this down.

k38 relay? had to replace mine,a dealer could not find the problem

Symptoms? Alternating flashing lights on rear view mirror and engine cranks but won't start. All other dashboard lights are normal. Unless I'm mistaken, that's pretty clearly a DAS issue.

The car does this to me once or twice a year, seemingly at random. Last time it resolved with a new battery, but other times it usually resolves with a thousand door lock/unlock cycles and starting attempts. But this is getting tiresome, and I'd hate for it to happen when I'm hundreds of miles from home.

I have 4 keys: 2 with the rectangular black plastic IR fobs (IR function hasn't worked in years), 1 non-fob key with black plastic top, and one slim wallet key. Makes no difference which key I use; same DAS problem.

Car has about 218K on it. I replaced K40 10 yrs ago at 153K and wiring harness 7 yrs ago at 165K. (Props to Phil -- may he R.I.P. -- for a great deal on both genuine MB parts.) Have not replaced K38.

Is it possible the ignition switch is the culprit (sticking; wear)?

Check your battery voltage when it's doing this. The 90a alternator on a 96 and 97 E300 is under-sized for the application.

I'm pretty sure the 96 DAS only engages when the car is locked with the remote as it does not have a RFID chip like the 97+ cars.

Does this car have an electronic injection pump? If not, feeding the shut off solenoid power should let the engine run. ( Jumper wire as an emergency bypass / light wired in for diagnostic purposes )

It would be worth a try to get the remote to work as it may reset / unlock the DAS.

While looking at the red window on the remote fob, press and hold the button. If the battery is good it will blink a few times. Another test is to use a video camera / phone camera that is sensitive to IR, point the red window at the camera and look for a flash.

The remote needs synced with the car. While pointing the remote at the car, press the remote button twice, put key in ignition and turn to the on position. This should let the car know that the remote belongs to the car.

We really need a diagnostic tree / wiring diagram to fix / bypass this.

97 doesn't have an rfid chip, it's a simple key. All om606s have the electronic pump.

I should have said 97+ gas cars. I have a 97 C280 / E320 / SL320 with RFID. The DAS box reads the chip then sends a code to the ECU to enable fuel.

Given our guy does not have a RFID chip, it should be a case of feeding a voltage to the enable pin of the ECU. It might need a pulsed voltage similar to the remote lock to alarm system on my SL.

In any event, finding a factory manual and wiring diagram will be critical in fixing this.

I left the car alone for a couple of hours this afternoon. Then . . . voila, it starts on the first try.

So I left it alone for a few more hours. Back to the flashing lights.

You can see why I want to put the DAS out of my misery. Permanently.

To answer tjts1's question, on my most recent try the battery resting voltage was 12.45 (it was 12.60 this morning, but you'd expect it to get a little lower with each glow plug cycle). With glow plugs on it drops to 11.30. Engine crank drops it to 9.70. This is a 2-month old Bosch battery.

On this car, a 1996, it is not the IR remote that causes the DAS to engage. The IR function hasn't worked in years; I lock and unlock the car with the metal blade key. Yet the DAS is clearly engaging.