I just bought my wife the above mentioned car, i drive a 92 300D. I have recieved tons of help from everyone here with my car which i greatly appreciate.

1. Most the rubber vacuum lines and elbows under the hood are cracked and spongy. I have replaced what i could with what i had left over from my car, i have plans to order more soon. Can anyone point me in the direction of a diagram of where each goes and what sizes?

2. With climate control off, and ignition switched on, a "running motor" noise can be heard coming from under the hood. It continues for about 2 minutes after the ignition is switched off. I think i have isolated the noise to what i think is a vacuum transducer on the right side of the engine bay.

3. Its almost as if the accelerator pedal is only "half working". From halfway way to the floor, not much happens. If you hold on the floor, eventually it will get to redline, it just takes a while. My wife says she doesnt feel safe pulling out in traffic. Contrastly in my car wherever you are holding the pedal and you floor it, you instantly get pulled into the seat.

4. (Some or All these may be related btw) i got a PO243 cel, turbo wastegate accuator. I erased it a few days ago, and it hasnt been back.

I should also mention in my car i replaced the vacuum operated wasted gate accuator with a pressure one, after blocking the egr and removing the butterfly valve next to it. I have plans for the diode/resistor setup to cancel the egr. Do these engines also have the butterfly valve thingie on the intake?

Any and all help is much appreciated!

Your 99 should be MUCH quicker than your 92...so something is definitely wrong.

Have your replaced air and fuel filters for starters?

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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

#3 and #4 coincide. Check the vacuum line that runs to the actuator on the back side of the turbo. May have to get it on a lift

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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04 Sprinter 3500 - 310k
"Ich mag die Dieselgeräusche"
https://youtu.be/YjrxHqNy5CQ
✞

Number 2 , yes transducer and the noise and running for a couple of minutes is normal.

0-60 mph is just over 8 seconds so the turbo is not being allowed to play by the ecu.
Check lines on transducer as mentioned above,and the transducer is just below the airbox and access is bot to bad.

I have had issues with my 97 e300td going limp mode lately after refitting egr diode / resistor delete. Now there are no codes and it runs as normal after a restart but it has no turbo boost when it limps and to be fair my old w124 e300d was quicker off the line so I understand your wifes apprehension.

It sounds like you might have already replaced the hose from the EGR butterfly valve to the boost sensor on the driver side firewall. When I had my limp mode that hose had a big hole in it that caused my issue.

That whirring when you put the key in the ignition is normal. I thought it had something to do with the climate controls.

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Treetops
06 E320 CDI 127K Miles
87 300TD 231K Miles

99 E300 269K Miles-Sold

I have both fuel filters, and new braided overflow hoses that i got from pelican. I have not replaced them yet, bc i wanted to do a purge first, then put fresh filters in.

Just to clarify, i dont want to sound like a diesel dummy but"limp mode" is the engine running fine but no boost, correct?

I will look for the boost sensor on the firewall and check the hoses.

I will also check the vacuum line going to the actuator on the turbo.

It wont be until tomorrow, but i will keep you guys posted. Thanks for the timely replies

Are these cars drive by wire?

Yes these cars are drive by wire, the actual pedal sensor in the engine bay is above the driver side shock mount, its connected to the pedal by a cable, adjust it so that there is almost no slack in the cable.

it seems like your pedal sensor is bad or loose.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

Holy cow what a difference! After replacing most of the vacuum lines the car is WAY faster and more responsive.

Now i just need to do the diode/resistor setup to cancel the egr and i should be good!

I ordered all new vacuum lines and an intake manifold gasket from pelican this morning. I plan to pull the intake manifold to clean out all the sludge, and to get better access to what i think is the fuel prefilter, and cracked rubber fuel lines.

Anything else i should do while its off?

Check the injection pump for fuel weeping, note the leaks and order appropriate parts.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

The pre filter is accessible without removing the intake. Also, check the delivery valves and check the rubber hoses that go to the fuel lines under the manifold that run to the tank. Also the shutoff valve as well.

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

If you have the intake manifold off, consider changing the glow plugs. My '98 has 142,000 miles on it, and the glow plugs have been changed three times. Two of those times have been in the last 50,000 miles that I've driven in the last 11 years.

I've taken the taken my intake manifold off three times -- twice for glow plugs and once to change fuel line. If I had changed glow plugs when I changed the fuel lines, I would have taken the intake manifold off only twice. I now intend to change glow plugs anytime the intake manifold is off the car. Glow plugs are maintenance items which probably have to be changed every 25 to 50,000 miles on these cars.

On my 98, I have all original glow plugs at 124,000 miles. When the time comes, I would only use Beru.

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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

thanks for all the help! my plan was to replace the cracked rubber fuel lines while i had it off as well.

Now a new problem has popped up

i didn't mention it in the original post, but the driver's side vent blow hot. i have plans to clean out the duo valve and i think that will fix it because i smacked it with a screw driver handle and it stated blowing cold.

however, my wife reported today that the floor vents are air so hot she felt like it was burning her feet. she also said the left side center vent was cool not cold for a bit.

any suggestions? i did a quick search and came up with vacuum connections as possible culprits?

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'92 300D 2.5
'99 E300TD

Probably low AC refrigerant. The driver side starts blowing hot first then eventually when you cycle the compressor it will hiss a little as well it gets lower...

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

the "dealership" I bought it from (goose creek automotive in monroe nc) charged the ac when i bought it about a month ago. he said it was just a little low.

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'92 300D 2.5
'99 E300TD