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#1
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80 300d heater hose help
Hi Everyone! I have a 1980 300d and blew the engine and stuck an 1983 300d turbo in it. I cobbled it back together. One issue is that I replaced the air actuated heater thingy with the electrical one from the 83 and now I have hot water running in the heater core all the time. Now I am warm and toasty 365 days a year. I want to fix it so I can turn off the heat in summer.
From the engine is a small hose that goes to the vacuum valve in the picture. a larger hose exits the engine that runs into the solenoid valve, from the valve it feeds in to the heater core on the driver side of engine Do I just need to power the electrical valve and it stops the water flow? Is it a 12 volt solenoid. Is there a flow diagram some were? Is the heater hose set up much diff from an 80 to an 83? Any info would be great. |
#2
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Buy a rubber plug at a hardware store and install it in a heater pipe. Reinstall hose.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#3
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What an odd setup you have. Don't know why you have an extra pipe across the firewall...but the hot water outlet pipe in front of the oil filter housing would be the one to shut off the total flow (at least in the stock setup.....), a ball valve would do if you're not switching it often
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1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making.... 1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...) 1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone* 1977 250 parts car 1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone* 1975 FJ45>HJ45 1981 200>240D (to be sold...) 1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone* 1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist) 2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD ![]() |
#4
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Yes it is very odd. I am beginning to figure it out. The water leaves the head and goes into the inlet by the oil filter. Near the alternator what I thought was a solenoid valve is probably the non working aux water pump from the 1983. Why do I have the vacuum mono valve if I have a larger hose bypassing it to aux pump motor. There was a lot of changes between the 1980 and the 1983. Inserting a ball valve looks to be the best solution.
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#5
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Found a diagram. It looks like I have the valve connected to the vent line.
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#6
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Holy smokes, here is what the 1980 300d heating layout is supposed to look like. I have a DrSuess meets Frankenstein heater hose mess on my hands.
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#7
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Your 1980 has Klima I with the evil servo .
Easiest thing to do is put a ball valve into the hose marked 'c' as that'll prevent radiated heat from keeping you warm in Summer . If you're handy, now is a good time to begin collecting parts from a manual system like a 24-D or graymarket car, it'll have two manual hot water controls on the dashboard and a simple dual hot water valve where the heater matrix outlets are now . If you're patient, the Klima I system can be brought back to life and it's great but you *must* keep on top of the cooling system maintenance as any sediment in the coolant will kill it and you'll be back to zero again .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#8
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Tangofox, I had a wood dowel that was about the right diameter and blocked off the inlet pipe like you said. I need to find a something less perishable to stick in there. I see on eBay a manual control valve for $12.
If I thought about this more I bet I could remove half the hoses since the servo is long gone. My brother ripped out all the servo parts when I was under the car disconnecting the exhaust for the engine swap. VWnate1, I will keep my eye out for a 240 d setup. Next, I may try to to get the vent damper and things going. Presently I have one option. fan on max, stuck on defrost. |
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