Recently, the front end of my '85 300D came in contact with a ditch. It pushed in the lower air dam on the passenger side and I would like to straighten it back out. What would be the best way to go about doing this? Thanks, Joe

Attached Thumbnails

   

Replace it is the easiest and best way. Lots of W123's still out there.

Re-working the sheet metal is an exercise in patience and frustration. It can be done but when you figure out the hours you spent you begin to question your sanity.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Be sure to look for other damage.

How good is the rest of the car? You might be able to unbolt the part, use wood blocks to hammer things back into general shape then paint the entire under bumper area flat black.

That piece doesn't just unbolt from the car. Go ahead and try your hand at straightening it. You won't hurt anything any worse than it already is. A block of wood and a rubber or plastic mallet would probably get you most of the way. I guarantee you'll spend less time doing that than wrestling that piece off the car and finding a new one to wrestle back on.

-Rog

Thanks for the advice. The rest of the car is in good shape so I'll try straightening what I have first, then move on to replacement if I have no luck with that. Joe

I agree to straighten it. That piece is attached and is a part of the front fender. The metal is very soft and easily coaxed back into place. If you can get behind it with a dolly you should be able to tap it from the outside while pushing it out. When you get it where you want it paint it with a 1" brush with matching paint mixed for you at the automotove paint store in a pint can. Its down low so nobody will notice the paint brush lines. Take your time and use minimal impacts to avoid stretching the metal too much.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

My error. I was confusing the W123 with the early W114.

I'd recommend re-coating the area with a "chip guard" type of paint. The textured finish makes masking the imperfections from hammer marks much easier.

Wurth, Troton, 3M or SEM all make paintable coatings.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Depends on how good you want the end results. This is a cheap aftermarket panel still available I suspect.

Just cut somewhere near the ends and size the replacement panel for the space and weld it in. Unless it is easier to unbolt the original and just replace it.

I base this on it is just a semi flimsy panel with no interm supports that I remember. It sometimes is hard to get a piece of metal like that straightened out. Although you could try that first.

I would settle for a really cheap one if still in good condition from a salvage car. For people that have reasonable access to pick and pull yards. I wish my situation was similar.

The panel in question is a part of the fender.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.