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#16
07-17-2018, 09:46 AM
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I specifically and accurately identified the HF buffer as dual action.
Quote:
I believe it is possible that this buffer may be too heavy for Linda Jane. I believe the weight of the buffer will stop its rotation if it is used on surfaces which are horizontal unless it is set on high. She may want to go to Harbor Freight, open the box and lift the buffer to evaluate the weight. That cost nothing. I'd also suggest any rookie seeking to learn to remove oxidized paint on a car might watch a lot of youtube videos to see exactly how to do it right. I sincerely apologize for offending anyone with my responses in this thread.
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84 300SD 85 380SE 83 528e 95 318ic 
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#17
07-17-2018, 01:04 PM
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ammonyc on youtube will provide you with all the detailing info you would ever want to know.
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-------------------------------------------- Old Blue - 83 240D 6 speed manual trans, OM648 Green Machine - 2001 Europa G500 87 300SDL Bought on Peachparts. Low-ish miles..? Family Truckster - 2012 VW Touareg TDI Patchouli Wagon - 2004 E500 - SOLD 333k mile 97 BMW 750il V12. - SOLD The Californian - 85 300TD - SOLD Daily Super Sedan - 03 Audi S8 -SOLD
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#18
07-17-2018, 01:18 PM
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Nope. No one is offended; we are all just trying to help.
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#20
07-17-2018, 10:30 PM
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Looks like the car is China Blue which is a single stage paint job. Open the hood and look at the information card to verify, here is a picture for reference:
 Confirm that the paint code is indeed 934 (China Blue) and if it is, then you have yourself a single stage paint job which may or may not be salvageable. From what I can tell in one of your previous posts, the car has indeed oxidized quite a bit. That being said, I would absolutely not follow most of the advice posted here already. The last thing you want to do is start buffing the dry old paint. Sure it might look okay for a while after you buff it, but that is the wrong way to approach it. You need to nourish the paint back to health before you think about buffing it. (I know everyone is trying to chime in to help this lady out and I mean no disrespect) If you are truly serious about trying to preserve the paint you have left on the car, read this over a few times and follow each step: https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/2009-to-2017-how-to-articles-by-mike-phillips/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html Last edited by SonnyMorrow; 07-17-2018 at 10:42 PM.
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#21
07-17-2018, 11:20 PM
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My 1985 300D definitely has a clear-coat layer. It is very noticeable when it fails on the black car. It has mostly come off on the horizontal surfaces. I found I could even remove it w/ my fingernail, so used a blunt putty knife to remove the loose stuff over a few years. It now looks much better, since just a little bit of haze left around the perimeter, but still solid on the vertical panels. After wet-sanding the hazy borders w/ 600 then 1000 grit and waxing, it looks shiny and fairly uniform. Not a show car look, but better than most of the cars w/ failed clear-coats which is very common here in the Central Valley sun.
I have read that my car was not a normal base-coat/clear-coat, but rather the color coat could be a final coat, but they added a clear layer after curing. Don't know, but the color coat appear to hold up fine on its own. My 1984 300D is white, so I don't notice a hazy clear-coat if there is one, and perhaps it didn't spend as much time in the sun before I got it. Hope this helps.
__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans
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#22
07-17-2018, 11:37 PM
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Interesting. Makes a lot of sense and sounds right. For me it would be too much work.
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#23
07-17-2018, 11:52 PM
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Hi, LindaJane,
I too have an 1983 300d with white paint. It is original, old and cracking. My best result was using Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze and adding several layers of Meguiar's Tech Wax. You really want to clay bar the car after washing to get any grime out of the paint before applying polish and wax. I was able to purchase a Black and Decker orbital polisher for $25 at Lowes. It isn't the best, but does a good job. The Tech Wax is easy to do by hand, and you can cover the car a couple of times in quick order. My paint is also very tired, but by applying several layers of Tech wax, it shines uo pretty well and lasts for a couple of months as long as I don't wash it too often. I hope this helps.
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#25
07-20-2018, 11:09 AM
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In later years- (83? +?) MB went to the clear coat and away from the single stage paint. 82's had single stage no clear coat. 84 had clear coat. China blue has no clear coat.
When I had a 82 in China Blue this product made it look like new; waxing afterwards with your choice of wax. Wash, clay bar, shammy dry, then this... http://www.malcoautomotive.com/Rejuvenator__One_Step_Auto_Paint_Restoration-details.aspx then wax
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#26
07-20-2018, 11:39 AM
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Not that it matters in LindaJane's case but the "metallic" colors were base coat/ clear coat all the way back to the '68 MY which I am aware of. It might even have been earlier.
My '73 280 was single stage "Dunklerot"(DB-542), my '73 220D single stage "Yellow" (DB-624) , the wife's '72 250C was "Ikon gold metallic" (DB-419), my '74 280C is "Anthracite Gray metallic" (DB-172), my 85 500SEL is also a metallic.
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now
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#27
07-20-2018, 11:58 AM
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I'm pretty sure the case is that solid colors were single stage paint, and metallic colors had clearcoat. My roommate's 1991 350SDL has single stage solid white paint.
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Stop paying for animal enslavement, cruelty, and slaughter. Save your health and the planet. Go vegan! I did 18 years ago. https://challenge22.com/ DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES!  1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C 1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles
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#28
07-21-2018, 02:51 AM
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Quote:
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#29
07-21-2018, 10:13 AM
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Removing oxidized paint correctly on these cars is really like 30 hour process and will cost about $225 in materials (and that's if you buy all the stuff at harbor freight) and is actually a very difficult task for a novice especially.
Your buffing pad is going to clog with each section and will have to be cleanrd out ecery 5-10 mins with oxidized paint. It really makes more feasible sense to pay $250 for a complete detailed three stage buff at a detail shop...
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#30
07-22-2018, 04:15 PM
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If Only....
I think $250 would equal $500 here in Berkeley area. I want to do this myself
at first, to try. But I do have limitations in strength and knowledge of the process...so today I will wash her. Any recommendations of a very gentle cleanser?..I have one I've used, I forget the brand, but it may not be the best. The last time I just put some ivory soap, because I know that is gentle...
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