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#1
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1999 E300D, best way to bleed the fuel system.
Hi guys,
I just replaced my fuel shutoff valve and all of the plastic lines, once the task was completed, I attempted to start the car but I can tell that it is air bound. I've had lots of W123 diesels, early 220Ds with the oil bath air filters, 240Ds and 300Ds, I've even owned several W126 300SDs and 300SDLs. To bleed them, I would simply crack the injector lines and crank the engine until clear fuel was coming out. Once started, I would bleed each line individually until the car ran smooth. Is a W210 E300D any different when it comes to bleeding air out of the fuel system? Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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Currently Driving 2006 E320 CDI 1999 E300 Turbo Diesl 2002 ML500 1995 E320 Station Wagon MBs I've owned 1997 E320 Assassinated by Pine Tree 1987 300E Wife Killed Engine 1981 300D Stretch Limo Total Loss 1970 250 Coupe 212,000 mi. 1974 450sel 184,000 mi. 1974 240D 377,000 mi. 1977 300D 204, 000 mi. 1979 280se God Only Knows! 1983 240D 130,000 mi. 1972 220D 280,000 mi. 1983 300SD 244,000 mi. |
#2
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Nope, same principle.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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04 Sprinter 3500 - 310k "Ich mag die Dieselgeräusche" https://youtu.be/YjrxHqNy5CQ ✞ |
#3
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Disconnect the return line where it joins the metal pipe at bulkhead , plug the netal line with a short bit of hose with a bolt in it.
Get a sealey or similar ( engine oil suction pump) and connect it to the return line , switch ignition on to open shut off valve and then suck fuel through the pipe work . Once it comes all the way through you will still have to crank engine a bit to get fuel up through injector lines aay 30-40 seconds but it will start. |
#4
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Quote:
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#5
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I have a '98 e300. Changed the shut off valve, fuel filters, and plastic lines. (When you install the fuel filters, they should be filled with diesel fuel.) I had to crank the starter for about a minute and a half.
Cranking should be done in intervals of 20 to 25 seconds. Crank for 20 to 25 second, let the car sit for a few minutes, then crank again, then let the car sit for a few minutes, and repeat until the car starts. I think that is the way most people do it. You don't want to overheat the starter. |
#6
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How do I discern which is the return line, where does it come from?
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#7
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On the left side of the engine bay there are two metal lines coming from below. These join to rubber hoses.
One of the rubber hoses goes to the fuel preheater (the rectangular device in the side of the cylinder head with 2 hoses connected). This is your supply line. The other rubber hose goes to a fitting on the fuel filter. This is the return line.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
#8
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Install an electric fuel pump in the fuel source line from the tank. Get a free flow pump for a carburetor. These are low psi, 3 to 5psi, and allow free flow of fuel through them when they are not powered. It will be the best $30 you can spend. It will save your starter and battery and patience. Every time you open the fuel system or change a filter, you will be happy. Run it until the motor starts and then leave it off until it is needed the next time. It is also useful in finding leaks in the fuel plumbing under the hood.
I eventually did this on my first W210 and did it the first time I opened up the fuel lines on the second W210.
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Greg 2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic 2007 ML 320 CDI 2007 Leisure Travel Serenity 2006 Sprinter 432k 2005 E320 CDI 1998 SLK230 (teal) 1998 SLK230 (silver) 1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO Previous: 1983 240D, on WVO 1982 300D, on WVO 1983 300CD, on WVO 1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer) 1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix 1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO 1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO |
#9
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Good idea, thanks Greg.
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Jim |
#10
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Full tank, nose down on a hill. Had the shutoff valve removed twice on my friend's 98. Each time almost no extra cranking time to bleed.
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#11
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Quote:
+1 Works with all of them. Use gravity. |
#12
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but Mityvac's won't pull past stationary piston fuel pump?
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David 1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project - 1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle) |
#13
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Exactly what I have done on my 99. If you are level try jacking up the rear.
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1999 Mercedes E300TD daily driver sold at 238K miles 106K miles were mine, rust worm got it :-( 2006 Mercedes CDI new daily driver! 56,000 miles May 2016 now 85,625 Apr 2018 and Apr 2019 101,000 miles Apr 2020 109,875. March 2024 135,250 |
#14
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I believe you are mistaken. I have sucked on the return line at the fuel filter and was able to pull fuel through the check valves in the fuel pump with no problem. This does not bleed the injector pump but does shorten the cranking considerably.
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'97 E 300 D |
#15
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I used my top side oil changer which has a great deal of vacuum and pulled from the return line connection st the fuel filter. Been cranking twice at 20 seconds intervals with the injection lines loosened at the top of the injectors and still not a drop. I sucked fuel into it was clear at the fuel filter return line port
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