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  #1  
Old 07-29-2018, 03:38 PM
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1999 E300D, best way to bleed the fuel system.

Hi guys,

I just replaced my fuel shutoff valve and all of the plastic lines, once the task was completed, I attempted to start the car but I can tell that it is air bound.

I've had lots of W123 diesels, early 220Ds with the oil bath air filters, 240Ds and 300Ds, I've even owned several W126 300SDs and 300SDLs.

To bleed them, I would simply crack the injector lines and crank the engine until clear fuel was coming out. Once started, I would bleed each line individually until the car ran smooth.

Is a W210 E300D any different when it comes to bleeding air out of the fuel system?

Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

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  #2  
Old 07-29-2018, 03:55 PM
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Nope, same principle.

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  #3  
Old 07-29-2018, 05:20 PM
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Disconnect the return line where it joins the metal pipe at bulkhead , plug the netal line with a short bit of hose with a bolt in it.
Get a sealey or similar ( engine oil suction pump) and connect it to the return line , switch ignition on to open shut off valve and then suck fuel through the pipe work .
Once it comes all the way through you will still have to crank engine a bit to get fuel up through injector lines aay 30-40 seconds but it will start.
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Old 07-29-2018, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murkybenz View Post
Disconnect the return line where it joins the metal pipe at bulkhead , plug the netal line with a short bit of hose with a bolt in it.
Get a sealey or similar ( engine oil suction pump) and connect it to the return line , switch ignition on to open shut off valve and then suck fuel through the pipe work .
Once it comes all the way through you will still have to crank engine a bit to get fuel up through injector lines aay 30-40 seconds but it will start.
Or use a Mityvac with brake bleeder. It will take longer, but most everyone with a Mercedes-Benz Diesel has one.
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  #5  
Old 07-29-2018, 06:33 PM
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I have a '98 e300. Changed the shut off valve, fuel filters, and plastic lines. (When you install the fuel filters, they should be filled with diesel fuel.) I had to crank the starter for about a minute and a half.

Cranking should be done in intervals of 20 to 25 seconds. Crank for 20 to 25 second, let the car sit for a few minutes, then crank again, then let the car sit for a few minutes, and repeat until the car starts. I think that is the way most people do it. You don't want to overheat the starter.
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Old 07-31-2018, 12:15 PM
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How do I discern which is the return line, where does it come from?
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Old 07-31-2018, 12:52 PM
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On the left side of the engine bay there are two metal lines coming from below. These join to rubber hoses.

One of the rubber hoses goes to the fuel preheater (the rectangular device in the side of the cylinder head with 2 hoses connected). This is your supply line.

The other rubber hose goes to a fitting on the fuel filter. This is the return line.
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  #8  
Old 07-31-2018, 01:36 PM
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Install an electric fuel pump in the fuel source line from the tank. Get a free flow pump for a carburetor. These are low psi, 3 to 5psi, and allow free flow of fuel through them when they are not powered. It will be the best $30 you can spend. It will save your starter and battery and patience. Every time you open the fuel system or change a filter, you will be happy. Run it until the motor starts and then leave it off until it is needed the next time. It is also useful in finding leaks in the fuel plumbing under the hood.

I eventually did this on my first W210 and did it the first time I opened up the fuel lines on the second W210.
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Old 07-31-2018, 08:17 PM
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Good idea, thanks Greg.
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  #10  
Old 08-02-2018, 02:15 PM
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Full tank, nose down on a hill. Had the shutoff valve removed twice on my friend's 98. Each time almost no extra cranking time to bleed.
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  #11  
Old 08-02-2018, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCallahan View Post
Full tank, nose down on a hill. Had the shutoff valve removed twice on my friend's 98. Each time almost no extra cranking time to bleed.

+1 Works with all of them. Use gravity.
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  #12  
Old 08-02-2018, 06:27 PM
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but Mityvac's won't pull past stationary piston fuel pump?
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  #13  
Old 08-03-2018, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCallahan View Post
Full tank, nose down on a hill. Had the shutoff valve removed twice on my friend's 98. Each time almost no extra cranking time to bleed.
Exactly what I have done on my 99. If you are level try jacking up the rear.
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Old 08-03-2018, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spock505 View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong, but Mityvac's won't pull past stationary piston fuel pump?
I believe you are mistaken. I have sucked on the return line at the fuel filter and was able to pull fuel through the check valves in the fuel pump with no problem. This does not bleed the injector pump but does shorten the cranking considerably.
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  #15  
Old 08-05-2018, 02:23 PM
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I used my top side oil changer which has a great deal of vacuum and pulled from the return line connection st the fuel filter. Been cranking twice at 20 seconds intervals with the injection lines loosened at the top of the injectors and still not a drop. I sucked fuel into it was clear at the fuel filter return line port

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