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#1
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oil change on 83 300 CD
any tips ?
its my first time. i guess im a virgin.
__________________
1983 Mercedes Benz 300CD -Teal, Turbo Deisel -daily driver -pretty slow 2001 Corvette Z06- TOTALLED ! ! ! no mas/gone/adios/see ya -Speedway White (1 of 352 made/2001 year color only!!) -weekend warrior car -she is NOT stock -SUPER fast |
#2
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Haynes Manual
Hey Kdubbu,
Changing the oil is pretty simple, as well as other procedures. Get the Haynes Manual 123 Diesel. lots of good stuff. It may help you understand some of these posts! GOOD LUCK! CD in SC |
#3
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Thanks TXBILL
I did not know of this site, would documeting my injection pump idle screw plate be of any help on this new? site, It sure helped my vehicle run smoother. CD in SC
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#4
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THANKS !!!
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#5
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motor flush
ANyone ever use Motor Flush or anything similar to flush the oil system before changing oil? Is this taboo or just a waste of money?
Paul 82 300D t |
#6
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any certian weight/kind of oil to use ?
best place to get a filter ? |
#7
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Quote:
You might also want to search the archives for sucking out the engine oil. TXBill's web site recommends the drain plug method, but many of us (including most MB dealers) use the vacuum method, sucking the old oil out the dip-stick tube. A search for "topsider" will give you more information than you can read in a week. |
#8
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The Chevron Delo and Shell Rotella that Bill mentioned can be found at any Walmart. What really makes it convienent is they are both sold in 1 gallon jugs. The Chevron oil is easy to spot, the containers are blue. The Shell Rotella are white with Shell's logo on it. Personally I use the Chevron Delo 400.
__________________
1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi) 2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi) 2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi) MBCA member |
#9
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Hi Bill, is there anything I need to install before I can get in. All I can see is the front page on that web site, I do have ie as a browser.
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#10
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Thanks Bill, I had try it a lot of time, but nothing happen.
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#11
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The instructions on the referenced website are very good. The only differences that I do are:
Step 7. While lowering the cover onto the canister I make sure the large O-ring stays in the groove by feeling for it with my finger tips just as the cover is lowered to meet the canister housing. I had one incidence where the O-ring fell out and was clipped into two parts (front and back) while I tightened down the cover. I did not check that area for leaks before driving off. Fortunately, I needed diesel and stopped only a few blocks away to fuel up where I had planned to check the oil level. I had lost almost all of my oil in those few blocks with a massive leak around the canister cover. Needless to say I ALWAYS check that O-ring area for leaks now immediately after starting the engine. Step 12. I check the oil level again now when the car is on level ground. But that’s just me. The instructions are excellent as they are. I’d just say that for the most part you can’t go wrong with a quality 15W –40 diesel rated oil such as the ones mentioned – Chevron Delo 400, Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac…… If you want to learn everything about oil, go to this website and do some searches: http://www.oilanalysis.com/message_boards/by_category.asp?Category=Car%20and%20Truck%20Lubrication JohnM |
#12
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oil change
I talked to a guy that worked for garret turbines, and he said that their turbine engines for planes take special oil, but if you are in a remote location he said through their testing they have found that shell rotella T 15W40 is the best for their turbines.
I started using it in my 83 300CD, and the oil pressure increased over using the delo 15W40. I looked over the link shown about changing the oil, and the orings on the shaft connected to the oil can top, well my orings almost look like metal, they seem very very hard. Are they supposed to be rubber? Everytime I change the oil, I have looked at them and wondered. Can anyone tell me where to get new ones? They dont come with the heingst filters I ususally get. How can I get the rings off too without damaging the shaft? My car has 465k miles, should I start changing the oil more frequently, what would be a good time to change the oil? Thanks, Austin |
#13
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Kdubbu--
Mercedes Benz regularly publishes a list of recommended oils for MBs. Their latest list is here: http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html |
#14
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The two little o-rings on the cover stem serve to isolate the pressurized oil being fed to the bearings and the rest of the engine for cooling and lubrication from the bypass flow at low pressure being returned to the oil pan. If the o-rings get too old and cannot hold pressure, the pressurized oil short circuits to the pan, and you lose actual pressure to the bearings. Also, when you shut down the engine, the oil filter housing is supposed to stay full of oil, so that when you start up there is a minimum period of time before the oil system is up to pressure and the flow to the bearings is established. These o-rings prevent the draining of the oil filter housing. If the oil drains, then the engine runs without pressurized oil feeding the bearings until the housing fills up again. Another potential for damaging the engine. So they should be replaced on a regular basis, but how often is up for grabs. For the newer Diesels like my !998 the two o-rings are supplied as part of the kit with the filter, so you change them every time. Maybe that is a hint. Jim
__________________
Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep) |
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