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  #1  
Old 09-03-2018, 10:40 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Former New Jersey resident, transplanted to Atlanta
Posts: 465
1999 E300D Driver's Window Inoperable

My wife had someone try to jump start her 1999 E300D and inadvertently reversed polarity (how does someone do this when the cover on the inside fender has a BIG RED POSITIVE symbol?) resulting in quite a few blown fuses that I have all replaced.

Everything on the car works as it should with the exception of the driver's side window.

I know it's not the regulator or motor as I have replaced many of the both of them on practically every Mercedes that I've owned.

When I press the window switch a discernible clicking sound is heard from the plastic black box with a connector with wires going to it that is visible with the door panel removed.

Is there an electrical testing procedure that I can perform with my fluke meter to see if the plastic black box is the culprit?... I am an electronics tech so I know how to use a meter thoroughly.

Thank you,

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Currently Driving
2006 E320 CDI
1999 E300 Turbo Diesl
2002 ML500
1995 E320 Station Wagon


MBs I've owned
1997 E320 Assassinated by Pine Tree
1987 300E Wife Killed Engine
1981 300D Stretch Limo Total Loss
1970 250 Coupe 212,000 mi.
1974 450sel 184,000 mi.
1974 240D 377,000 mi.
1977 300D 204, 000 mi.
1979 280se God Only Knows!
1983 240D 130,000 mi.
1972 220D 280,000 mi.
1983 300SD 244,000 mi.
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  #2  
Old 09-03-2018, 01:04 PM
jay_bob's Avatar
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Location: Columbia, SC
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The window controls on a W210 run off the body CAN bus. When you press the switch in the center console (known as the lower control panel in the service manual), you are creating a CAN bus message to tell the door control module to operate the window motor.

I would see if the motor is getting 12 V dc across its terminals when you push the switch. Remember this will be using an H bridge circuit with relays (or maybe MOSFETS), so it can flip the polarity to run the window up or down. So you’ll need to measure across the motor terminals and not to ground.

If you’re not getting voltage out try disconnecting the motor controller from the motor and jumping 12 V and ground to the motor leads. If the motor runs the controller is shot. Fortunately these are not VIN specific and require no programming. So any W210 in the yard should have the same DCM part number in its drivers left front door. They are hard coded to their location, so you can’t use a right front, it has to be a left front.

Or of course you can try cracking open the case and see where the magic white smoke came out...
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
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2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

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  #3  
Old 09-04-2018, 09:33 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Former New Jersey resident, transplanted to Atlanta
Posts: 465
Thanks jay bob, would disconnecting the battery for a while and reconnecting it possibly reset the can bus???.... I ask this because at one point the battery had become very low when I was cranking to bleed the fuel system.. I had to charge the battery
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  #4  
Old 09-08-2018, 10:58 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Former New Jersey resident, transplanted to Atlanta
Posts: 465
Hey jay bob!!

I followed the diagnostic process that you posted to the letter and by isolating each component it was revealed that though I can here the black box clicking when ever the window switch is pressed, it is not transferring the power to the window motor as commanded.

I located a replacement, it is described as a door control module!
__________________
Currently Driving
2006 E320 CDI
1999 E300 Turbo Diesl
2002 ML500
1995 E320 Station Wagon


MBs I've owned
1997 E320 Assassinated by Pine Tree
1987 300E Wife Killed Engine
1981 300D Stretch Limo Total Loss
1970 250 Coupe 212,000 mi.
1974 450sel 184,000 mi.
1974 240D 377,000 mi.
1977 300D 204, 000 mi.
1979 280se God Only Knows!
1983 240D 130,000 mi.
1972 220D 280,000 mi.
1983 300SD 244,000 mi.
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  #5  
Old 09-17-2018, 10:40 PM
Baby Benz Sandra's Avatar
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Silicon Valley, California
Posts: 16
Don't know if you resolved your window problem yet, but over the years, I occasionally have had an individual window that didn't work on my '84 190D - typically, it is the driver's window. Every time, it was the switch in the console in between the seats that was the source of the problem. Removing the switch from the console and opening it up is pretty evident just from examining it. If you've never opened a window switch up, just be careful to do it over a plate or pan because it contains parts and small balls that may fall out if you don't hold it upright. I simply cleaned all internal parts and put it back together, and that fixed the problem every time. Whenever I have a problem with my car, I always start with something simple initially. My car is 34 years old and all the regulator motors are still going strong. Good luck with that!
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1984 190D 2.2 W201 Baby Benz:
290,000 miles and still going strong; my daily driver
Motorcars of the past:
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1969 Volkswagen Bug (Bought it brand new in '69 - the list price back then: a mere $1799!!)
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  #6  
Old 09-22-2018, 01:44 PM
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Location: Former New Jersey resident, transplanted to Atlanta
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Replaced the door control module and when the window switch is depressed I can hear two audible clicks coming from the module but the window still does not operate. The old module only would click once so it appeared initially that the new module would solve the problem.

I verified 12 volts DC going into the middle of the relevant connector on the thicker gauge wires that are for the window motor operation. I also verified that the power is going down to the window motor when I press the window switch for the down command but the test light only lights up momentary (about one second) but the window doesn't budge. I also verified the window motor and regulator work flawlessly by unplugging the connector on the window motor and directly feeding 12 volts DC, the window goes up and down when I switch polarity.

I am at my wits end, any suggestions will be greatly appreciated because this is starting to drive me crazy!!!

ps, to Baby Benz Sanda, this is a 1999 E300D and the power doesn't go from the switch to the window motor like it does on yours..... On a 1999 E300D it's being done by data

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