I want to remove the injection pump on this engine:



as I want to clean the pump and I might end up repainting the block. Any ideas if I can remove the injection pump and reinstall it without screwing up the timing? I'd rather not have to re-time the engine plus it was running excellent before. Any advice is appreciated, though I may end up leaving the pump in place if it is too difficult of a task. I know in theory this is possible but it seems quite tricky. And by the way, this is a European engine so it has the M style injection pump. Thank you

I vote leave it in place. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. R&R of the injection pump is not a trivial job.

If you decide to pull it anyway, it looks like you have a timing port pump. Get the lock pin, rotate the motor until it's in the right spot, and put the lock pin in. Verify that the crank stayed in the right position before reinstalling the injection pump, then remove the lock pin. You should be good to go.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

This sounds like a difficult solution in search of a problem.

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Agreed. I have a personal rule, don't mess with anything not essential when you are fixing something. There are enough unknowns as it is with an engine swap trying to get it running again after you install it.

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

I decided I'm going to leave it in place, as you all have suggested and I agree with your logic behind it. I'm going to replace the delivery valve seals, as well as install the newer style primer pump. Is there anything else I should do to the pump while the engine is out?

you mean copper washers?

please ... don't ..if you disturb setup you gonna end up on bosch adjustment table.


...and yes please do update primer pump.


cheers

ChO

.

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
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It's entirely possible to replace delivery valve seals without needing the pump recalibrated on a test bench.

I certainly wouldn't do so just for the heck of it or as a maintenance item, only in response to a functional issue with the engine, but it's completely doable.

__________________
617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

True but the DV seals can be done easily once the engine has been installed and proven functional. Don’t go borrowing trouble!

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

That is pretty much what I too, have concluded from everyone's advice. I should just get this engine back in the car and running first before messing with the delivery valve seals. I am most likely not going to repaint the engine block, and I will leave the injection pump in place. Unfortunately, I will just have to suck it up and clean the injection pump while it is attached to the block as well as cleaning the block region around the injection pump. Thanks everyone