Ball hones are for repairing a worn engine ( I don't use them )

On a worn engine, I use a squaring hone where the stones are held square. One type is made with sheet metal and the other is like a boring head. Cylinder wall clearance does increase a bit but that can be better than getting taper.

The pivot in the middle hoses are not worth using.

Liners are available for replacement in either 3/32", or 1/8" wall thickness.
A discontinuity of 1/4" in diameter (or less after resizing the block for the sleeves) will not affect heat transfer.
The sleeve would have to reach a temperature in the yellow-to-white range to become soft enough to be distorted by combustion pressure. Get it that hot, and sleeve distortion will be a moot point.

Thank you, all for contributing to my little disaster project. I will be sure to post updates when I can.

To anyone who's still interested:
The pitting is in about a dozen spots spread throughout all 5 bores, some lower than others. A few are up near the top of the cylinder, but most lie in the middle to lower range, which I'm not too concerned about.

I considered the silver solder idea before posting, but realized that would allow more chance for mistakes to happen. I would need to either have the cylinders rebored (such a cost for such a tiny job) or hone them (again, more room for mistake, and just being anal at this point.) The thread helped me decide I'm just going to stone the cylinders so there are no high spots, and just hope for the best.

Before you do anything, take the block to an automotive machine shop. Do not bore or hone the cylinder block, the liners need to be a press fit.