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#16
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Redline D4 ATF claims Dex II compatibility.
I read Type F ATF is an option of last resort for 722.3 and 722.4 transmissions. Keeps the car drivable as long as possible. Sixto 98 E320s sedan and wagon 02 C320 wagon |
#17
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Do a search on this forum (or Google) for the K1 accumulator spring. When it fails, it often causes flaring and crappy shifting 2-3. The part is cheap and it's easily replaced with the transmission pan off. |
#18
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after you replace that spring,
X2 on the valvoline maxlife atf , walmart
__________________
1985 300TD 1981 Scirocco 1.6D conv 1986 Golf 1.6D 2003 Golf TDI |
#19
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I have no trouble buying Dexron II here in Holland (The Netherlands) - for example a company called Kroon make it
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#20
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And Castrol and Eurol and MPM and Combi Oil
(Just a few brand names found on a Google shopping search)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#21
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after changing the spring should I also drain the torque converter?
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#22
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most people say no, draining the torque converter may cause a sludge ball to break loose. Keeping clean fluid circulating will clean out any sludge over time.
Change that filter if you haven't already. One thing that is tricky is getting the fluid level correct when you refill it. New fluid is hard to see because it's clear, the engine has to be running when you check it, and the level when COLD (on my 85 300td) is actually 10mm BELOW the mark. After a long drive, the fluid fully warmed, it will read at the normal level. There has been much discussion on that topic.
__________________
1985 300TD 1981 Scirocco 1.6D conv 1986 Golf 1.6D 2003 Golf TDI |
#23
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Quote:
To ignore the torque converter is a waste of fresh fluid. There is so much fluid in the torque converter that you'll barely dilute the crud. The point of the exercise is to remove as much contaminated fluid (and sludge if it has gotten that bad) as possible. Some people here used to get worried about clearing the oil cooler lines (!) The filter mainly protects the valve body: The parts with the friction material are left "in the sump " so to speak with all the muck. These are the parts that will slip - to stop slipping you not only need friction material on the clutches and the brake bands but also clean fluid.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#24
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Quote:
__________________
All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#25
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In that vicinity of near enough to 400k. To me one problem is we seldom get the past history with the cars we buy. Chances are that transmission was rebuilt or replaced on the car at one unknown time or other.
Certainly if it is the original transmission or even a much earlier rebuild getting signs of it being tired could be quite common at that milage. Actually an original transmission even making it to that is probably almost exceptional. If type F transmission fluid is known to have a life extending ability. I might consider it. I would do the test described to separate vacuum issues from transmission flaws first before anything else. You get hard shifts the transmission itself is probably still good. There are some subtle things in the vacuum control circuit that can cause issues. Expecting that circuit to still be as good as new at this kind of milage is a bit of a stretch. So my opinion is some fundamental testing is in order first. That is just my opinion or what I would do. Divide and conquer is not always going to work out. At the same time it is a logical thing to attempt. |
#26
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Quote:
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#27
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Glad you got it going...drive on and enjoy it!!!
__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer |
#28
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So it was just under filled. For everyone else, careful with the additives. I'm running mobil 1 ATF in mine and it shifts silky smooth, yet firmly. Replacing the K2 cured the flaring on my 1987 300D.
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#29
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Quote:
X2 on additives too! Whilst I'm not one to go off on a "snake oil rant" I think there's often a desperate hope element in the purchase of such products which could mean you're just wasting money
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#30
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Quote:
I tend to agree in general. There are masses of additives with unrealistic claims out there. Plus situations that are well beyond any hope of an additive fix. Yet there still are a few that can help certain situations. Far far too many are just fundamentally useless at the same time. The most useful chemical to me is just plain old laquer thinner for at least a few things. I kind of consider it and use it as a semi universal solvent. It seems to especially like attacking any residues of petroleum products. It all started years ago. I was looking at a pair of zenith carbs on an early gas Mercedes. They needed taken apart and soaked and kitted. Instead I fed them with the laquer thinner as fuel and let them sit for about twenty minutes. I had removed the idle adjusting screws and nothing came out first. Yet after a twenty minute soak they flowed again. Actually that engine ran better than anytime after I had acquired it. Gas engines also do not mind burning it as fuel as well. Easing your job after the soaking in place. All the years I knocked carbs down and soaked them plus kitted them. I think that the vast majority would have responded to this approach instead. Today I see what I did before this as a waste of time and money in all too many cases by following the convention of the times. Of course you have to have reasonable expectations. This will not fix any form of mechanical issue in a carb. Like many people today I own a lot of smaller engines. I just restocked some additives that do work. Stabilizer for sitting fuel. A can of quick start to get some of the older smaller engines started easier the first time after sitting all winter or summer. I think miracle mystery oil as an additive has some value as well. Again depending on the situation. |
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