What screws into the aft end of the 603 oil pan? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JHZR2 · #1 11-19-2018, 07:53 AM

In the never-ending saga of oil pans, have a nice 603 pan cleaned, baffle removed and ready. But the 3.0L side bumpout pan has a drilled out spot at the rear end of the pan for something.

My 606 pan doesn’t. Can’t observe my car currently, and the engine I removed the 3.0L pan from had the AT removed, so I don’t know what goes where.

This:

Anyone aware? Some sort of flywheel pickup?

Would suck if that’s the case.

dieselbenz1 · #2 11-19-2018, 08:12 AM

603 reads flywheel teeth through that hole, the 606 has bumps on the back of the fly wheel which are read. Both are used to determine engine rpm.

JHZR2 · #3 11-19-2018, 08:28 AM

Not good. So my 606 pan will mount up but not allow my engine, Klima, etc to work correctly. Wonder how big of a risk it is to have that pickup machined in. Faster than shipping yet another pan or being stuck with the om603 3.0L pan.

What to do, what to do.

Mxfrank · #4 11-19-2018, 08:33 AM

I think you're pretty safe if you open it up with a hand drill and tap. You'd have to take care that the sensor doesn't contact the wheel, but I think the thickness of the casting would ensure the spacing is good. It's always something.

dieselbenz1 · #5 11-19-2018, 08:44 AM

Why not have the jb weld removed and have the original pan welded?

if6was9 · #6 11-19-2018, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Not good. So my 606 pan will mount up but not allow my engine, Klima, etc to work correctly. Wonder how big of a risk it is to have that pickup machined in. Faster than shipping yet another pan or being stuck with the om603 3.0L pan.

What to do, what to do.

Looks like that boss should be pretty easily machined once you know the size and direction it needs to be.

There would be a large straight bore slightly oversize for the sensor head itself (the sensor has an O-ring I think) and alongside there needs to be a threaded hole that accepts the securing screw for the sensor.

If you had your original pan off, a reasonably accomplished machinist can examine and establish the requisite bore angle and exact size that can be duplicated into that 606 pan's unmachined boss area. He would probably turn a foot long rod the would fit snugly into the original pan and then by laying the pan upside down on a surface plate and then measuring the angles. Alternatively, such a rod could be inserted into the bore then the rod chucked up in a mill or drill press and the quill brought down to the table, the pan would then be clamped into place. The quill is raised pulling the rod from the bore leaving the pan clamped in place. Then the rod is removed ant the the proper sized drill or end mill chucked up and the bore can be cut by lowering the quill down into the clamped pan. Fit the sensor, mark the securing screw center, drill and tap that.

Around here a machinist is usually $85-100 an hour.

if6was9 · #7 11-19-2018, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mxfrank

I think you're pretty safe if you open it up with a hand drill and tap. You'd have to take care that the sensor doesn't contact the wheel, but I think the thickness of the casting would ensure the spacing is good. It's always something.

The sensor is a straight bore and there is a securing screw alongside that needs a much smaller tapped hole.

Here's the sensor

https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/3095/MBZ_3095_ELSENS_pg2.htm#item8

dieselbenz1 · #8 11-20-2018, 09:30 AM

And the decision was?

JHZR2 · #9 11-20-2018, 12:11 PM

I’m inclined to stick with 606 pan. My mechanic who also does machining, will call me when the time comes. He has both pans. We will discuss when he calls. I’ve told him not to rush.