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  #16  
Old 12-24-2018, 10:58 PM
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so it works only with IE? Mozilla wont do then?

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  #17  
Old 12-24-2018, 11:04 PM
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Firefox, Safari, and Chrome all work fine on my Mac. I don't have a Windows machine anymore, so I can't confirm on there. Hyperlinks inside a PDF are down to the reader installed on the machine, not the browser.
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  #18  
Old 12-26-2018, 03:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alec300SD View Post
The info on the startekinfo site is not accessible on all devices nor by all web browsers.

AKAIK, the site was designed with computer access via the Microsoft Internet Explorer (IE) browser in mind.

Smart phones also have issues connecting to the info on the submenus
I usually connect with the Chrome browser with my desktop computer.
The Adobe Flash plug in needs to be active.

BUT, if I want to use the embeded links in the ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual),
I HAVE to open the url link with IE.
Done all of it but, says document not found still?
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  #19  
Old 12-26-2018, 04:38 AM
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Yet again I'll say - read post #8
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #20  
Old 12-27-2018, 12:15 PM
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It turns to be black smoke when the weather is higher than 5C. I have huge algae problem in the tank so will replace the tank.

I will redo the valve adjustment again.
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  #21  
Old 12-27-2018, 04:45 PM
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Exclamation A Fungus Amongus

You cannot have Algae in your car because Algae requires sunlight .

What you have is fungus and if you go to the effort of taking the fuel tank out, you might as well clean it out your ownself, a new one will be cheapo Chinese crap and some random used one will prolly have fungus, dirt and maybe even rust in it .

Remember too : you'll need to take the fuel sender apart and clean it because the fungus, dead and alive, loves to hide in there and re contaminate a cleaned out system .

The fuel sender has *very* delicate wires inside it so BE CAREFUL ! .

" GAS TANK RENU" is a franchise chain with shops almost everywhere, once you remove your old tank they'll clean it and make like new again....
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  #22  
Old 12-27-2018, 05:17 PM
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************** has a video in which he services a long Parker 300sd with a blend of veggie ,diesel, and Lubra moly , runs it for 2 hrs and it shows a big improvement on blow by and smoking after the service.
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  #23  
Old 12-28-2018, 09:34 AM
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Post Progress

? Was the IP timing ever checked ? .

No question that Diesel Purging helps, if you maintain it properly it shouldn't be necessary often though .

I usually find it necessary on the cars I buy due to lack of filter changes and the previous use of veggie oils and God alone knows what else to run the car .
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #24  
Old 12-30-2018, 01:48 AM
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I am waiting on the workshop manual to check the ip timing:

Here are some pictures of the growing stuff in my fuel tank. I am going to replace this tank with a clean petrol/gas one.













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  #25  
Old 12-30-2018, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
? Was the IP timing ever checked ? .

...
I've been trying for years to help people realise the futility of messing about with the IP if they haven't first checked the timing chain elongation on OM61X engines - these timing chains "stretch" - correct that and you automatically correct the position of the IP too.


Chances are quite good that you only really need to check the chain unless someone has been arsing about with the IP before.


In my opinion the first step of the drip test ought to be "check the effing chain elongation using the 2mm lift test" (Followed by:- No don't be a lazy prick and just try to line up the notches and the balancer marks - that's notoriously unreliable)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #26  
Old 12-30-2018, 12:37 PM
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Post Fuel Tank Fungus

RE: Post #

That's nothing, here's what I recently discovered in a still working (! even the low fuel lamp !) junkyard sender :
Click image for larger version

Name:	20181219_104739[1].jpg
Views:	193
Size:	147.1 KB
ID:	150502

Hm, I can only add one picture per post for some reason....
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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #27  
Old 12-30-2018, 12:41 PM
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Question MORE Fungus

The bottom of the sender :


O.K., for no specified reason I am now not allowed to post pictures anymore .

Too bad as this fuel sender had more than a tablespoon of accumulated fngus debris in it .

I hope your used petrol tank doesn't have any rust in it else you're soon to have vastly worse problems .
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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #28  
Old 12-30-2018, 09:58 PM
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well I need to adjust my valves again. Had a clatter noise. Was in the dark adjusting it didn't see the lobe correctly.
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  #29  
Old 01-19-2019, 10:18 PM
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My valves are re-adjusted now, it's less smoky as before but, a little bit smoke still.

My oil level has been filled 2mm over full does that also matter?

Some valves were too tight others were too loose.

Last edited by jsp300D; 01-26-2019 at 04:27 AM.
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  #30  
Old 01-26-2019, 04:27 AM
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Anyone?

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