tumbler lock for ignition

[Doctor Revolver]

Hi there,

I am currently replacing the ignition tumbler in my 240D and wonder if any of you have successfully modified the screw on locking mechanism so that you don't need to unlatch it with the metal pin thingy you fashioned from a paperclip.

I am more paranoid about my key getting stuck, than I am about somebody stealing my car as a result of this modification.

There is a website out there with detailed instructions, but it's not free.

[BWhitmore]

No advice on modifying the screw on mechanism, just a thought. The W123 ignition switches do not like extra keys on your key chain. If possible limit your keys to no more than 2 keys on your key chain. Also periodically lube your key grooves with graphite from a number 2 pencil.

[ykobayashi]

You can check out my old thread on the column lock.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/416105-jammed-ignition-lock-steering-column-mechanism-worn.html

I 3D printed a plastic threaded cap to replace the metal one. It is made from thermoplastic so it is easy to cut off with a hot knife if you need to get it off without the keyway turning. There’s an STL file at thingiverse for free download. Be careful and make sure to use a plastic like ABS or PETG that can take dash temperatures. My barrel melted a little and the key got sticky. It lost its ability to snap back after cranking. I eventually sorted out my keyway and put everything back to stock.

Another way is to use a Dremel to grind down the square tab on the cylinder that locks into the slot on the threaded barrel. It’ll be easy to steal your car but if you don’t care that’ll do it. I suspect this is the pay per view video you’re talking about. Pretty sure he just grinds off that square button so the black barrel just unscrews.

My feeling is if you straighten out your keyway and column lock parts (see my thread for the root cause of jamming) then it won’t matter if you have an easy release cylinder. Mine is all back to stock and I like it that way for security.

[ykobayashi]

Grind off this tab show at 12 o’clock in the photo. The little square bit. Just 1mm off the end so it clears the black screw on barrel.

. Don’t cry when a 13 year old kid steals your car with a screwdriver.

[Doctor Revolver]

Originally Posted by ykobayashi

You can check out my old thread on the column lock.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/416105-jammed-ignition-lock-steering-column-mechanism-worn.html

I 3D printed a plastic threaded cap to replace the metal one. It is made from thermoplastic so it is easy to cut off with a hot knife if you need to get it off without the keyway turning. There’s an STL file at thingiverse for free download. Be careful and make sure to use a plastic like ABS or PETG that can take dash temperatures. My barrel melted a little and the key got sticky. It lost its ability to snap back after cranking. I eventually sorted out my keyway and put everything back to stock.

Another way is to use a Dremel to grind down the square tab on the cylinder that locks into the slot on the threaded barrel. It’ll be easy to steal your car but if you don’t care that’ll do it. I suspect this is the pay per view video you’re talking about. Pretty sure he just grinds off that square button so the black barrel just unscrews.

My feeling is if you straighten out your keyway and column lock parts (see my thread for the root cause of jamming) then it won’t matter if you have an easy release cylinder. Mine is all back to stock and I like it that way for security.

Goodness gracious, that's a treasure trove of information in that old thread of yours! Thanks for pointing it out!