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DIY DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) cleaning (2009 R class- OM642)
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After watching several videos on DPF cleaning, I decided to give it a try. The majority of the videos did the cleaning with the DPF installed in the vehicle. Others (professional services) clean them with solvents and high pressure. I decided to do a variation of the latter. After removing the DPF from the vehicle, I poured in the cleaning solution (Liqua-Molly from our sponsor), and waited 15 minutes. I then poured in the flush solution. No liquid came out the other end until the flush solution was poured in, and even then only a little. I then used my pressure washer to force water through the DPF (from the out-flow end), thereby removing the soot from the direction it came in. The results were pretty incredible. Massive amounts of black liquid filled the collection bucket. I ran water through until it was clear. A note of caution when removing the DPF- remove the pressure sensor from it's mounting, and disconnect the wire plug, and remove the piping along with the DPF. Don't try to disconnect the piping from the DPF, and leave it there, it is removed along with the DPF.
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Thanks! Looks like a good idea for cars that didn’t get a lot of highway to be able to succesfuly regen fully and often.
Xentry or probably any diagnostic with live data, lets you check the delta P on that DPF. This is the sensor that sits in the chassis above the DPF that attaches to the steel lines. This parameter measures the clog level of the DPF and triggers the regen function. I will get the computer out on my cars and see how bad the delta P looks. May try this if my cars aren’t getting enough highway to keep them clean. Dealer replaced the DPF on my 2008 ML right before I bought it. The 2008 E320 doesn’t show in the history it’s been replaced, but the prior owner put a lot of highway miles on it. I will do a delta P check on it and see how it reads. Took my 2014 ML350 in for one last catchall fix before the CPO ran out and they ended up replacing the whole entire exhaust system front to back, for free, because I complained of noise from the undercarriage. I got a new DPF “reduction catalyst” and rear muffler. The W210 has a catalytic filter and these too can get clogged. Unfortunately there is no delta P sensor on these, and if it gets clogged, you get the “banana in the tail pipe” syndrome with no warnings. |
Nice! Hoping I don't need to do that for a LONG while on my GLK....
How many miles had it covered to accumulate that much? |
Are you running with or without the EGR valve?
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Mxfrank: everything is intact, as it is a CA car. I can only assume the EGR is functional. |
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Curious if you had fault codes for the DPF or if you did it as a preventative measure. I have a thread going concerning problems with my '08 e320 om642 and would like your thoughts.
Thanks, Brian |
Also would like to know if you purchased the Liqui Moly special sprayer on used your own pressure washer. From the picture it appears it is your machine with your wand. If I'm correct what is the pressure output of your machine. Mine is 4000 psi and worried I will damage the DPF.
Thanks again, Brian |
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Just yesterday I did this job on the DPF in my brother's '07 E320 Bluetec. I scanned three codes after it had a catastrophic intercooler failure (the cooler exploded and was spread along the freeway at 60mph). The DPF code was for the soot content being high, and the other two were boost pressure (or lack thereof) sensor codes from the system being wide open to atmosphere. I assumed the DPF got clogged, and the turbo kept pressurizing the intake system. After cleaning the DPF, and installing an ebay intercooler, the car is back on the road with no issues. |
Thanks for the additional instructions! I'm going the follow your steps and do the same to see if it might be what is causing my limp mode situation. I had a code 2611.001 NOx regen. Lambda vale is too high. Was this the code you had? Curious, how much time should I plan for the R&R and cleaning? I will be doing it on jack stands and a creeper.
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I explored removal of my DPF recently but ultimately it was not needed. I believe a couple bolts holding it in need to be replaced as they are one time use. Check those in the service manual to verify for your model.
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However, there is one single use castle nut holding the bottom of the catalytic converter on the 642. The catalyst (KAT) is the first ‘wart’ post turbo that is vertical behind the firewall. The DPF is the next ‘wart’ that is horizontal in the exhaust line, abeam of the transmission. If you have a later model with DEF injection, the DEF injector is between the KAT and the DPF. |
While waiting on my delivery from ebay, I got under the car and found my DPF is very different that yours. It does have the band clamp for the front, but, has dual outlets with bolted flanges. I plan on removing sensor in the front of the DPF and unbolting the differential pressure sensor from the tunnel and disconnect it. Bought a new one per your advice.
Question? Did your brother's have dual outlets? If so, were there gaskets between the DPF and the tailpipes? Wondering if I need to source more parts before teardown. Thanks! |
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