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#16
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On my W123 there is a power window relay and it has a single fuse (the #12 fuse) that is shared with some other things in the interior. If that fuse burns or is not making good contact none of the power windows will work.
If your fuse chart is still there and readable it will be listed there.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#17
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I mentioned this problem earlier in the thread:
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However, that brake light isn't coming on when I push the brake pedal, but it does come on while the rear hatch close assist motor is running |
#18
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I took the car for a drive yesterday and found (in addition to my post above) that when I take my foot off of the brake pedal the rear hatch close assist runs for about 3-4 seconds.
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#19
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I replaced the 'convenience module' relay, which on this car is just an all-purpose relay, not the 6 prong plugs that later modules use. Now when I try to open the driver door window I can hear the motor clicking in the door, however the window still isn't opening. So now I'm pretty sure that I have a bad window regulator motor in the front window.
I've tried a few tricks to get the window to open so I can remove the regulator without any luck. I tried adjusting the screw at the base of the motor, but it isn't going to budge before stripping out. Are there any tricks to getting the regulator out in the full open position short of cutting it out? |
#20
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I've had good luck removing the motor, and moving the regulator manually...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#21
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Makes you wish you had a LEXUS?? Let me tell you....
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I have a 1991 300d. One time I was in a friend's 1991 Lexus and I thought "Oh good, I get to see what one of these is like". His entire dash cluster DID NOT WORK. That means 1) he had no speedometer (and we got pulled over by the police for speeding since he had no idea how fast he was going) 2) no temperature guages (his car could start to overheat but he would never know it) 3) no mileage showing (he would never know how many miles were on his car 4) no fuel guage, so you could be low on fuel and never know it In addition, his car gave a horrible ride. I did replace my shocks and struts and maybe if he replaced his it'd ride nicer. But my car was FAR superior to his. You're complaining about brittle rubber and cracked fuses on a 30 year old car. It happens. |
#22
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Change your fuses to the new copper ones
If you have the old pitted aluminum ones, they might LOOK fine but it's possible THEY ARE NOT FINE.
An entire new set of the copper ones might cost you all of $20. Replace them and see if that fixes the problem. |
#23
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I ended up replacing the driver side window regulator motor with a working used unit. Now I have consistently working front windows (knock on wood). I suspect the rear windows probably need new motors and/or regulators as well.
Does anyone know what relay is needed for the rear intermittent wipers that plugs into the rear hatch (pic below)? Is it unique to this application or is it a common multi-purpose relay? I located a w124 rear wiper relay 124-821-00-63, however it is an eight pronged plug and on my car it looks like a 6 prong plug |
#24
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This evening I decided to take another look at the wires going into the rear hatch. I had already cut open the boot several months ago and took a cursory look at the wires and thought they all looked good. Tonight I grabbed each wire individually and gave them each a solid tug and the large brown grounding wire came right out! So the ground from the body into the rear hatch has been completely broken. Explains a lot.
I removed some of the rear ceiling trim and moved the headliner back in order to access the termination block for the wires coming from the rear hatch. There is actually some slack in the wiring between the door and the termination block so I was able to pull the wires out a bit and find the other end of the broken ground wire. I temporarily spliced them together for testing purposes and now: * The third brake light works as expected * The door close assist works as it should * The bulb-out indicator on the dash works now I would prefer to repair the broken wire in the harness and reinforce some of the other wires without taking the harness completely out. If anyone has any suggestions on how to best do this I would appreciate it. |
#25
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Old thread but I finally got all these issues sorted out. Like many thought most of the issues were due to broken wiring in the doors. Like I posted before the ground wire in the hatch was broken. Over the last few weeks I finally tackled the rear doors and found that the window wires on both sides were broken at the door hinge area.
In all cases I used posi-lock wire connectors to splice the broken wires inline. I did that a year ago in the hatch and it has held fine. We'll see if the rear door splices hold. |
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