Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 02-18-2019, 02:28 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,038
On my W123 there is a power window relay and it has a single fuse (the #12 fuse) that is shared with some other things in the interior. If that fuse burns or is not making good contact none of the power windows will work.

If your fuse chart is still there and readable it will be listed there.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 02-22-2019, 08:12 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 476
I mentioned this problem earlier in the thread:

Quote:
... the center console button lights are always on dimly. I noticed that the license plate lights are also always on dimly. I also noticed that when I unplug the three prong plug in the rear hatch to the right of the close assist (toward the passenger side) those lights go out. I think all those systems are on fuse 3. Not sure what to do about it yet.
So I noticed today that there wasn't a bulb in the third brake light that is in the rear window. When I put a bulb in it the problem described above went away

However, that brake light isn't coming on when I push the brake pedal, but it does come on while the rear hatch close assist motor is running
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 02-25-2019, 04:26 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 476
I took the car for a drive yesterday and found (in addition to my post above) that when I take my foot off of the brake pedal the rear hatch close assist runs for about 3-4 seconds.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 03-08-2019, 02:42 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 476
I replaced the 'convenience module' relay, which on this car is just an all-purpose relay, not the 6 prong plugs that later modules use. Now when I try to open the driver door window I can hear the motor clicking in the door, however the window still isn't opening. So now I'm pretty sure that I have a bad window regulator motor in the front window.

I've tried a few tricks to get the window to open so I can remove the regulator without any luck. I tried adjusting the screw at the base of the motor, but it isn't going to budge before stripping out.

Are there any tricks to getting the regulator out in the full open position short of cutting it out?
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 03-08-2019, 03:12 PM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,835
I've had good luck removing the motor, and moving the regulator manually...
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 03-09-2019, 12:36 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Southeast
Posts: 1,848
Makes you wish you had a LEXUS?? Let me tell you....

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldiehard View Post
I echo dlssmith's comments. The wiring in W124's is notorious for cracking, as is wiring in the Bosch/Hella headlights of W210 cars (BTDT!)
I had a window lifter problem which was traced to poor insulation in the R Rear door, when the rubber boot was peeled back the wires were visibly showing copper! Instead of ordering a replacement harness (which may no longer be available?) I spliced new wires from point to point and I used high quality wire and I soldered the joints and covered them with heat shrink tubing.
Come to think of it, I have an intermittent seat in my '95 E320 and I am afraid its most likely caused by the wires in the rubber boot.
What with frequent opening and closing the wire gets stressed, and that lousy German insulation gets all chafed and crumbles off.
Darned I wish they had used better quality materials in these fine cars. Makes me wish I had a Lexus!
Dieseldiehard, careful what you wish for! Let me tell you.....

I have a 1991 300d. One time I was in a friend's 1991 Lexus and I thought "Oh good, I get to see what one of these is like". His entire dash cluster DID NOT WORK. That means

1) he had no speedometer (and we got pulled over by the police for speeding since he had no idea how fast he was going)
2) no temperature guages (his car could start to overheat but he would never know it)
3) no mileage showing (he would never know how many miles were on his car
4) no fuel guage, so you could be low on fuel and never know it

In addition, his car gave a horrible ride. I did replace my shocks and struts and maybe if he replaced his it'd ride nicer. But my car was FAR superior to his. You're complaining about brittle rubber and cracked fuses on a 30 year old car. It happens.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 03-09-2019, 12:38 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Southeast
Posts: 1,848
Change your fuses to the new copper ones

If you have the old pitted aluminum ones, they might LOOK fine but it's possible THEY ARE NOT FINE.

An entire new set of the copper ones might cost you all of $20. Replace them and see if that fixes the problem.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 06-13-2019, 12:23 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 476
I ended up replacing the driver side window regulator motor with a working used unit. Now I have consistently working front windows (knock on wood). I suspect the rear windows probably need new motors and/or regulators as well.

Does anyone know what relay is needed for the rear intermittent wipers that plugs into the rear hatch (pic below)? Is it unique to this application or is it a common multi-purpose relay?

I located a w124 rear wiper relay 124-821-00-63, however it is an eight pronged plug and on my car it looks like a 6 prong plug




Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 06-14-2019, 02:46 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 476
This evening I decided to take another look at the wires going into the rear hatch. I had already cut open the boot several months ago and took a cursory look at the wires and thought they all looked good. Tonight I grabbed each wire individually and gave them each a solid tug and the large brown grounding wire came right out! So the ground from the body into the rear hatch has been completely broken. Explains a lot.

I removed some of the rear ceiling trim and moved the headliner back in order to access the termination block for the wires coming from the rear hatch. There is actually some slack in the wiring between the door and the termination block so I was able to pull the wires out a bit and find the other end of the broken ground wire. I temporarily spliced them together for testing purposes and now:

* The third brake light works as expected
* The door close assist works as it should
* The bulb-out indicator on the dash works now

I would prefer to repair the broken wire in the harness and reinforce some of the other wires without taking the harness completely out. If anyone has any suggestions on how to best do this I would appreciate it.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 07-23-2020, 02:34 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 476
Old thread but I finally got all these issues sorted out. Like many thought most of the issues were due to broken wiring in the doors. Like I posted before the ground wire in the hatch was broken. Over the last few weeks I finally tackled the rear doors and found that the window wires on both sides were broken at the door hinge area.

In all cases I used posi-lock wire connectors to splice the broken wires inline. I did that a year ago in the hatch and it has held fine. We'll see if the rear door splices hold.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:08 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page