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  #1  
Old 03-05-2019, 10:26 PM
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Talking Painted Instrument Needles

I’m pretty happy with the results. Used Model Master acrylic so the speedo and oil level needles wouldn’t stick to the resting posts. I painted each needle three times. Weirdly, the color is called “Fluorescent Red”, though it is clearly orange as can be, whether wet or dry.


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Last edited by Mikebear79; 03-05-2019 at 10:29 PM. Reason: Spelling
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  #2  
Old 03-05-2019, 11:00 PM
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It looks fantastic. I have been planning to do the same for some time, but was going to use acrylic craft paint.
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  #3  
Old 03-05-2019, 11:53 PM
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Painted Needles

Same paint, three different cars, speedo stuck occasionally on all three. got to thinking it could be the slight increase in weight added. A very light tap on the glass and it would free up. I know they weren't sticking to the post, I was very careful not to paint that part of the needle.
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  #4  
Old 03-06-2019, 03:23 AM
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Looks great man I think I'm going to do this to my '84 in the near future but I must first get the clock working. Also, I do have a quick question that someone may be able to answer here. Does this accurately reflect what a new MPH instrument cluster looked like back in the day; were the needles really that dark?
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  #5  
Old 03-06-2019, 05:48 AM
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There was a thread on here where a bunch of us painted our needles with the same paint. The paint was being passed around for the cost of shipping.
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  #6  
Old 03-06-2019, 08:59 AM
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The trick with the sticking needles is to use a toothpick or something wedged under the pivot to keep the needle from touching the post. Use enamel paint (model paint) which dries hard and allow it to dry for a minimum of 24 hours before pulling that toothpick.

If the needle still sticks (which it shouldn't), rub a tiny bit of silicone grease on the post face where they touch. It'll never stick again, the silicone grease will never dry out and it'll never attract dust.
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  #7  
Old 03-06-2019, 10:40 AM
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I used orange flourescent nail polish.

Probably should have gone red. I like orange though.

On my 300D I also put on a layer of glow in the dark nail polish. At night they would glow lightly . I liked that.
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  #8  
Old 03-07-2019, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okyoureabeast View Post
I used orange flourescent nail polish.

Probably should have gone red. I like orange though.

On my 300D I also put on a layer of glow in the dark nail polish. At night they would glow lightly . I liked that.
I'm kinda partial to Orange too.
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  #9  
Old 03-07-2019, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
The trick with the sticking needles is to use a toothpick or something wedged under the pivot to keep the needle from touching the post. Use enamel paint (model paint) which dries hard and allow it to dry for a minimum of 24 hours before pulling that toothpick.

If the needle still sticks (which it shouldn't), rub a tiny bit of silicone grease on the post face where they touch. It'll never stick again, the silicone grease will never dry out and it'll never attract dust.
This x1000
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  #10  
Old 03-07-2019, 02:55 PM
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Glow in the dark nail polish ~ what a great idea, I'd never heard of it before .

I use nail polish to mark vintage wiring harness ends.....

All manner of factory looking colors for .99 CENTS a bottle ! .

Great for floating into the timing marks of oldies as well .

When the binnacle is out and apart, don't forget to re glue the clear lens and clean polish everything, then even the stock illumination is sufficient to see the gauges easily .

I cut up ziplock baggies and lay over the gauge faces before attempting to paint the needles .
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  #11  
Old 03-09-2019, 07:47 AM
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I remember reading that it was static charge that stuck the needle to the pin. The cure should be a wipe with a drier sheet. Not sure of the science behind it, but I thought I'd offer that.
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  #12  
Old 03-09-2019, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 1983/300CD View Post
I remember reading that it was static charge that stuck the needle to the pin. The cure should be a wipe with a drier sheet. Not sure of the science behind it, but I thought I'd offer that.
I seriously doubt that. If that was the case, the movement coils would be so weak that they'd fail to maintain the needles at their positions over bumps and such. Since the needles don't stick with the factory paint, it's the homemade paint job that causes the sticking. A barrier of silicone grease is a permanent fix. Done 2 cars with the issue now and both worked perfectly.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)
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