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  #46  
Old 06-05-2019, 10:11 AM
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Good idea

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  #47  
Old 06-06-2019, 12:24 AM
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Ok second update.... I got the flange nut off and the flange off. The nut wasn't too difficult despite not having a ton of room under the car. I marked the nut before it came off, put two bolts in the flange holes, wedged in a big screwdriver between the bolts, held it in one hand, and used the 30MM 12 point socket and a 18 inch breaker bar on the nut. Maybe not the best, but it worked. The flange itself was tougher. It took many blows from a hammer on a block of wood before it came off. The splines in the flange and on the pinion were dry and actually a bit rust colored and looked like they hadn't seen lubrication in years.

The running surface of the flange has a shiny stripe where the seal rides on it but there isn't any ridge or groove, so I'm going to leave that alone.

What is the best way to get the seal itself out? I tried prying it with a screw driver and all I succeeded in doing was deform the seal.
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)
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  #48  
Old 06-06-2019, 12:44 AM
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There is a specialized tool with a pointed hook on the end of a 10-12” handle. Most auto parts stores will have this tool. AutoZone may loan the Tool. The hook is used to grab the seal and using the handle pry the seal out.

Last edited by BWhitmore; 06-06-2019 at 09:57 AM.
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  #49  
Old 06-06-2019, 12:56 AM
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There is also a seal remover tool that has a hook on one end, and a handle and a bend at the other end, where you can hit it with a sledgehammer.
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1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles
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  #50  
Old 06-06-2019, 09:51 AM
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Yeah, come to think of it, I have seen one of those before. Guess it is time to hit the Auto parts store or harbor freight website!! Thanks.
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1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)
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  #51  
Old 06-06-2019, 09:55 AM
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Just want to take a minute to thank everyone who has posted tips and advice as I deal with the diferential issue. I have wrenched on cars for close to 40 years, and have never had to deal with a differential pinion seal issue, let alone one with so many unique parameters as the one on my 300D (slotted or 12 point flange nut, rotational torque settings,etc). Maybe it would have just been easier (but not cheaper) to pull the diff and replace it with a good used one and repair the old one at my leisure. Oh well, live and learn. I'm at the halfway point of this job so the end is in sight. Thank you again for all the help and advice.
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
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2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)
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  #52  
Old 06-06-2019, 10:04 AM
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This forum is great and is supported by knowledgeable people who are willing to share without being critical - we all need a little help at times.
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  #53  
Old 06-07-2019, 10:40 PM
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Ok, Third update and success!! I picked up a hook tool seal remover and after work, I was able to pull the original pinion seal out of the differential with no trouble at all. Before it started raining and I had to quit, I was able to clean the seal seating surface and inspect it, no scratches, gouges, etc. No metal filings by the pinion bearing itself, all looks good. I test fitted the seal to the flange and the differential and it looks like it will be a nice snug fit. I was going to put the seal in, but like I said, it started raining too hard. So, when I do get to put in the seal, anything unusual or any tips I need to know about. I plan on coating the outer edge of the seal and the bore it goes in with a little clean gear oil, I also plan on putting some green Permatex RTV on the flange splines and pinion splines for sealing. To put it in I have some 3" PVC that fits the outer portion of the seal perfectly and will use that along with a hammer to tap it into place. The old seal did not have any visible tears or nicks, but it was as hard as a rock after all these years and miles, so that was most likely the cause of the leak (I hope).
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
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2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)
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  #54  
Old 06-08-2019, 10:33 AM
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Well. I guess this thread has officially "jumped the shark"
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1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)
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  #55  
Old 06-08-2019, 01:52 PM
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NEXT...

Just kidding. When I install seals, I like to put sealant on the outside of the metal part of the seal where it fits into the part, and then in the bore on the part where the seal slides in. Just a little bit. But, it makes it harder to install than simply oiling it. And, if the metal surfaces are in good condition and not scratched or nicked, it will probably seal even without sealant.

Putting sealant on the splines is a good idea. They will weep over time otherwise.
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1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles
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  #56  
Old 06-11-2019, 09:34 AM
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Well the seal is in, but the project is on hold for at least another week as I am STILL waiting for the special flange nut I ordered a week ago. Apparently according to Pelican parts and USPS it is EXPECTED to arrive here next Monday. Jesus two weeks to get a flange nut..... I cannot put the gear oil in and check for leaks until I install the flange, so I get to look at the car on ramps for another week. I suppose I could use the old nut, but I prefer not to.
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1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)
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  #57  
Old 06-14-2019, 11:54 PM
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Ok, next update for anyone still following this thread. The double hex nut arrived today, so after dinner I spent about an hour on the car. The new pinion seal is in with sealant, the flange is in (put a thin layer of grease on the seal running surface) and tapped it in flush with a hammer. The new double hex flange nut is in as well, torqued to 185 Nm, and I checked the turning torque and it is set to the same value it was (if not a touch more) when I checked it before taking it out. I'm going to let the sealant dry overnight before I fill it with gear oil and see if it leaks statically like it did before. If it stays dry, I will peen the flange nut and put it all together again.

Wish me luck folks, the factory instructions were followed and measurements were matched as much as I possibly could. If it still leaks my next course is to rip the differential out and put in another one.
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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)
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  #58  
Old 06-15-2019, 01:29 AM
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Good luck! I hope it's a success.
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DON'T MESS WITH MY MERCEDES!


1967 W110 Universal Wagon, Euro, Turbo Diesel, Tail Fins, 4 Speed Manual Column Shift, A/C
1980 W116 300SD Turbo Diesel, DB479 Walnut Brown, Sunroof, Highly Optioned, 350,000+ Miles
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  #59  
Old 06-15-2019, 06:01 AM
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Good luck ! I think all will be fine.
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  #60  
Old 06-16-2019, 09:51 PM
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Well, it is together, off safety stands, and sitting in the driveway. No static leaks from the Differential after sitting for 12+ hours, so I took it for a 7 mile spin. The rear end does sound quieter and after bringing it home, it didn't leak. I parked it in the driveway with some cardboard under it just in case, but if it is dry tomorrow, I'm going to call it good.

Not a hard job, but that 12 point flange nut is a bit of a PITA. Wish they would have went with a 6 point as it would give more flat to grip, especially torquing it to 132+ ft/lbs. Another thing that would have been nice is to have had access to a lift. Safety stands will work, but a lift would have given a lot more room.

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1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter)
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