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#1
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SLS Valve
1985 300TD
I picked up this car a few weeks ago and have been going through a few things each day. I checked the SLS system today and found it not working. repair history shows the pump was replaced about 3 years ago and it looks new. I removed the return line to the reservoir and it is pumping fluid so that's good. Next I went to the SLS valve and found the adjusting rod where it attaches to the lever was completely deteriorated on the end. The bushing crumbled in my fingers and I will need a new rod. I disconnected the rod and with the car on ramps and running, I pushed up and down on the valve lever and nothing happened. No rise in the car rear. Next I raised the lever up and it just spins around on its axis with no resistance...in other words I can turn it 360 degrees around the valve. I'm not sure if this is normal but my instincts are that something is broken inside the valve?? If so, is this repairable with a rebuild kit or do I need to look for a new valve? I didn't see any fluid leaking on the SLS shocks but I guess without fluid being pushed through them, there is no way to tell. Any suggestions on where to go from here? Replace/rebuild the valve and hope the shocks are good?
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1985 300TDT 2013 E350 Bluetec |
#2
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Haven't had an SLS system, but I think you just need to check output of the pump and the valve (Job 32-530), and replace the bushing and rod of course.
Soak every thing with your favorite pentetrant a day or two beforehand. https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Chassis/32-530.pdf
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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014 79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022 |
#3
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J:
The control disc in the SLS valve is free to rotate 360. One possible reason for the valve apparently not working is that the external operating lever and the control disc are out of phase. If the operating lever is slowly moved through its range, as limited by the bleeder screw, a position may be found that results in filling of the struts. |
#4
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Quote:
Good to know that the disc is free to rotate 360. I looked at an internal diagram of the valve after posting and realized it was probably normal. I believe the valve is original and never been apart by appearances. Is the control disc and cam notched in some way to the lever "stud" so that it remains in proper position as long as it hasn't been removed? I did move the lever fairly quickly through its travel range so didn't give it time in any one position to fill the struts . If I do find that the struts fill somewhere in the levers range, then would a valve rebuild be in order so everything inside {control disc and cam}can be oriented properly? From the diagrams it appears that the cam lobe needs to be opposite of the lever arm when the 2 sides are bolted together? How does the control disc and cam remain in proper position to the lever when installing back in the car? The car bounces a lot in the rear so I want to get the SLS system operating correctly and then replace the accumulators if necessary.
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1985 300TDT 2013 E350 Bluetec |
#5
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Quote:
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1985 300TDT 2013 E350 Bluetec |
#6
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J:
Now that you have determined functionality, a go at initial adjustment of the link is next. The valve operating lever has a small hole closest to the shaft. There is a hole in the body of the valve that aligns with the hole in the lever. Select a drill or a piece of rod that will fit snugly in the hole in the body. When the lever is pinned to the body the valve is in the neutral position. The length of the link is then adjusted so that the ball studs fit into the valve lever and the sway bar arm without bind. DO NOT LOOSEN THE CLAMP OF THE LEVER ON THE VALVE SHAFT. With a little luck no one will have previously altered that position. |
#7
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Quote:
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1985 300TDT 2013 E350 Bluetec |
#8
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Handy Thread !
Thanx for all the useful information provided here .
I got lucky with my '84 graymarket wagon, all I did was flush the system and change the filter and all works fine . Knowing the proper adjustment procedure is great . I've read of many rebuilding the control valve but never saw the adjusting procedure before .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#9
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May be a long shot, but you never know... Since the position of the swaybar determines the position of the control valve, look at the sway bar links and make sure they are right and in good shape.
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#10
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Thanks Resto...thats on my list. They looked ok but I'll take a closer look when I rebuild the valve. I ordered a kit today from MB.
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1985 300TDT 2013 E350 Bluetec |
#11
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Did you managed to fix this?
The lever on my SLS valve is not in the horizontal position when car is unloaded. It is angled downwards. If I use a pin to lock the lever in the previously described horizontal neutral position, the link rod cannot be shortened enough to keep it there. I also have to move the lever on the valve by about 40 degrees before any upward movement of the car rear occurs. Did you discover anything relevant when rebuilding the valve? Thanks |
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