Hi All,
After reading so many posts regarding everyone's various transmission woes I wanted to get sage advice from the community as to the overall longevity of the 722.3 automatics.

Having topped 305K miles on the 87 300TD, original trans, I just finished another fluid and filter change. I found a little clutch wear residue in the pan, but minimal, the old fluid was in decent shape, not burnt and mostly bright red (I have been using Mobil 1 ATF for the past 250k miles) but the mileage has me concerned. I use this car as my primary DD, and have yet to hesitate taking it on long hauls, just completed a 2500 mile trip last weekend. The trans has had no shifting issues that haven't been correctable with bowden or modulator adjustments. I have the modulator adjusted for firm shifts and have maintained that for quite some time.

Well aware of the various factors, namely the number of shifts as the primary contributors to wear, and this car does a mix of about 60% city and 40% highway use. Curious as to how long these transmissions will last before needing a rebuild. Other than the B2 piston or band, that seems to cause an instant non-working scenario, what kind of issues, problems have you noticed that gives you forewarning of an impending rebuild?

Would like to get ahead of the curve and start planning now as to whether to rebuild existing trans or start accumulating supplies for a 5 speed conversion. Any thoughts, or sage advice is always welcomed.

TIA

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

no reverse

Random downshifting from 4th

B2 piston was updated in 1989 I think so the cars made after that are less prone to this problem.

Very good and durable transmission unless it's in a W140

I have read on here that delayed reverse is a wear sign. My 85 has 444,000 on it and is at this moment hauling an livestock trailer full of lambs to the processor. It takes a full 3 seconds for reverse to engage, but it always does eventually.
I have my modulator adjusted for pretty firm shifts as well, mostly because ours tows trailers fairly regularly and with weight behind it the shift feels perfect.
I change fluid and filter every 30k and think that is the key. About 100K ago we used to have a problem shifting from 3rd to 4th when cold, so we started letting the car warm up before driving. It hasn't hung in 3rd in the last two winters, so its either getting better....or global warming?

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1985 300 TD 448K
1984 300 TD 278K

1983 240D euro 240k
1994 f-250 idi turbo 330K
1986 f-350 IDI
1987 F-350 IDI

1985 JD 1050 4wd
1965 IH 3660

If the transmission is wearing out you'll get plenty of warning. Flares during shifts, goofy behavior due to valve body wear, incorrect or failed shifting, delays, etc. If it's running and shifting fine, rock on and keep the fluid/filter serviced. Most of the transmissions that have issues are due to never servicing the fluid or having it out of adjustment. Soft/smooth shifting will kill these transmissions they simply aren't designed for it. The shifting should be quick and firm enough to let you know there was a gear change, but not so rough that it jerks the car. Slow/soft/creamy-smooth shifts will kill your trans sooner rather than later it's the same thing as slipping the clutch at every gear change on a manual.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Thanks for the input, this is helpful and puts me at ease a bit, so far no obvious troubles so I'll keep a watch out for any indicators and keep on truckin until an issue arises.

May check out the B2 piston for piston issues or sleeve wear as I dont think it has ever been updated to the later style.

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

This is what I have in my notes:
B2 Piston Seal and parts
B2 piston number 170 270 04 32 (1702700432) {number cast into the piston 126 277 11 38}
{Outer O-ring 005 997 70 48} for the Cover
{plastic bushing 126 277 08 50}
{Lip Seal verified 006 997 73 47}
Use the part numbers to shop with.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for the info.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

FWIW, I've consistently used the Mobil-1 trans fluid too; it's very good stuff. Between the good fluid and having the bowden cable properly adjusted plus the modulator set for firm (but not harsh) shifts, it has kept the original trans in my '95 E300D going for 413,000 miles. And I do *not* baby it at all! The front pump seal is hemorrhaging fluid when it sits, but I keep topping it off every once in a while, and it just keeps going & going. No flares, no delayed reverse, no weirdness at all. Of course, I've probably jinxed it now by writing this...

From what you've said, it appears you've taken good care of it, so I wouldn't worry too much. Maybe address the B2 piston if you want to tinker a bit to help feel a little more confident? Or live by the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" rule? And when time eventually comes for a rebuild, you won't do any better than talking with Marc at Sun Valley Mercedes Transmissions.

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Current rolling stock:
2001 E55 183,000+ Newest member of the fleet.
2002 E320 83,000 - The "cream-puff"!
1992 500E 217,000+
1995 E300D 412,000+
1998 E300D 155,000+
2001 E320 227,000+
2001 E320 Wagon, 177,000+

Prior MBZ’s:
1952 220 Cab A
1966 300SE
1971 280SE
1973 350SLC (euro)
1980 450SLC
1980 450SLC (#2)
1978 450SLC 5.0
1984 300D ~243,000 & fondly remembered
1993 500E - sorely missed.
1975 VW Scirocco w/ slightly de-tuned Super-Vee engine - Sold after 30+ years.

Thanks so much for the part number listing, very helpful!

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

Thanks for the info on Sun Valley, they consistently get good reviews.

I have a 1-2 sec delay getting into reverse, but its been like that for at least 100k miles and hasn't gotten worse in that time. Generally, I prescribe to the if it ain't broke philosophy, It's good to know that you've gotten that kind of mileage, gives me hope for the next 100k

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

My 1985 300D has ~330K miles, but a new transmission was installed ~220 K miles by the prior owner. Mine is the CA model w/ the 1986+ transmission, but I also have a 1984 300D. I have kept my eye on rebuild kits and they are pricey ~$380 for one w/ all seals and clutch plates, and I think that doesn't get you the B2 piston or modulator. They also look intimidating inside (youtubes) and I wonder if the large nylon part (not in kits) ever gets brittle. I'll file away the PN's.

I compare that to my Chrysler transmissions I rebuilt (FWD 3-spd torqueflite and 4-spd electronic), which were very straightforward (detailed manual) and took no special tools other than large snap-ring pliers. The rebuild kits were ~$100 w/ clutches. My three 1960's Chryslers are even cheaper. I got full rebuild kits for ~$50 it they ever need it, and same torqueflite design as the 3-spd I did.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

My SD flared from 3-4. I stiffened it up by adjusting vacuum but that made 1-2 very hard. I lost my B2 and I replaced it. I drove another year and a half and then I moved to a hilly location. I think the hill and maybe some debris left over from the B2 failure killed it.

At the end the car would sometimes just freewheel in hot weather. I mean it would just go into neutral when I was stuck in LA traffic. I knew it was on its way out. It would sometimes run a bit hot as well. I’d turn it off, let it cool on the shoulder, then it would engage and I’d drive off like nothing happened.

I lost a vacuum check valve in the pump. Shifting got hard and noisy. I fixed it a week later but the sounds didn’t go away. It whines and I drove it. Then the speedometer would bounce around while I was stationary...all I could think is ferrous metal was swirling around the magnetic pickup. The car had 200k at this point.

I limped it around a month waiting for Marc at Sun Valley yo build me a trans. When I finally pulled into Sun Valley it was making awful sounds. I was crazy driving it in but it made it. He got it in and oh boy, it transformed the car. Quieter, smoother, more powerful and good shifts in all gears. No banging 1-2 yet a solid 3-4. I love it.

So my original trans died quite young. I got the car with 160k on it for a low price because the PO had it diagnosed with the 3-4 flare indicating that it needed a rebuild. I drove it a good 40k before I actually did that.

Oh and I should add, the year before the PO sold the car he let his college kid drive it. I suspect he beat on it because he demanded his dad sell the 300sd and get him a WRX which I saw parked in the driveway.

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79 300TD “Old Smokey” AKA “The Mistake” (SOLD)
82 240D stick shift 335k miles (SOLD)
82 300SD 300k miles
85 300D Turbodiesel 170k miles

Hey guys, I'm going to see if picking up this thread works, since it's pretty fresh, and it deals with some of my 87 300 TD tranny issues.

This morning my tranny acted out. Sort of like the freewheeling ykobayashi described on his SD. I was stopped at a light and the car was all warmed up. I "stepped on the gas" - but the engine just revved, (like a flair - but without grabbing 1st gear) it barely rolled fwd. I dropped the RPMs but it flaired again as it got fuel. Dropped the RPMs again and pulled the shifter into lower gears. It gently engaged (2nd?) and I nosed ahead. It shifted normally into 3rd and I found a parking lot. ATF was low on the stick. I squeezed in 1/3 quart of Lucas Tranny Fix from a new bottle I'd just bought. (Last week I'd added a quart of it to help swell the leaky rear seal.) I tested it, and 1st gear worked again.

So did it flair because of Low ATF? the thicker Lucas? Worn out old tranny? All of the above?

And like 87tdwagen's - Reverse has had a 1-2 second delay. Shifts are firm. And it's adjusted to hold the gear longer.

Earlier today I called Marc at Sun Valley Transmissions and he recommended replacing the fluid. He said the 1st quart of Lucas Tranny Fix has probably been in long enough to recondition the seals.

Then I checked craigslist auto parts and found a 95 e300D tranny #201-271 07 01. Is that in the range of 722.3xx?

There are quite a few things that can be done with the trans installed.

I'll go with Sun Valley if a trans needs to come out and the car is good enough to keep. Sun Valley is cheap enough and my time is expensive enough that I don't want to do the swap twice - or go through the learning curve of building a trans.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.