Who has changed their timing chain - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ATLD · #1 06-17-2002, 01:07 AM

I am starting to consider that there may be a necessity for me to change my timing chain. My 85' 300D has 210k and runs fine, but I am wondering when it should be changed. I don't want to destroy my engine due to neglecting the obvious.

Please let me know if anyone has had timing chain problems and at what mileage. I want to be safe, but not spend excessive money on my car.

TIA

ATLD

jcd · #2 06-17-2002, 07:43 AM

I just had valves adjusted and had the tech check timing and stretch. He said.......leave it alone, it looks great.

The car has been maintained well, oil changes every 3000 MI. His projection was not to change it until at least 350,000 and potentially never. I know I'll break down sooner or later, but I'll probably have to fight Heinz, my tech, when I get it done.

JCD

mplafleur · #3 06-17-2002, 08:14 AM

There needs to be another choice. My answer would be yes, but not just to be safe, but because it broke!

So I could not answer the question, although I did replace the chain.

BWatson · #4 06-17-2002, 01:58 PM

I hear lots of different theories on what mileage to change the timing chain. The best guage is to check the stretch and let that tell you what to do. I have heard that you change this timing chain by rolling through. You attach the new chain to the old one and turn the engine over while another person holds the new chain and guides it. Is the true or do I have a wild imagination? It sounds easy enough.

leathermang · #5 06-17-2002, 03:46 PM

That is pretty much it.. but it is easy to be intimidated by the precautions listed in the Shop manual.... you have to loosen some important stuff and be sure to keep tension on it as you roll it in.... and do a good job of securing the link.

ATLD · #6 06-17-2002, 09:44 PM

Sorry mplafleur, I did this late last-night and could have made a few more choices, but thanks anyway for your post.

The procedure seems pretty simple, and the chain and master link will cost less than $100 together. My worry is, to do it right I need the special tool for crimping the chain. I have been told that the American chain crimpers won't work on my double chain; and the price I got from my dealer was close to $300 for the clamp and anvil.

I wonder if there is a place that rents them. I really perfer to do my own work.

Thanks for the replies...

Adam
ATLD

leathermang · #7 06-17-2002, 10:17 PM

Adam ,I am particularly fond of this thread :

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?postid=197984#post197984

ATLD · #8 06-18-2002, 11:56 PM

Thanks for the reply, if I can't get my MB dealer to loan me the tool, then I'll peen it with my ball-peen hammer. I have had bad experience with clips so that's not an option for me.

Chain and master link should arrive tomorrow!

ATLD

ATLD · #9 10-04-2002, 12:46 PM

Well, just thought that I'd finish the post (though I did all this in the middle of the summer) when I saw this thread while I was cleaning out my e-mail inbox. Well, as it turns out, my dealership did lend it (the crimping tool) to me for a whole day, free of charge (cause they didn't need it right then) so I didn't have to peen it myself (thanks to Mike and Dale); this makes me feel much more confident when driving. It also had the magnetized end so I didn't have to fidgit around with pressing on that new link-end. Also when I was in there, I replaced the front/main seal, oil pan gasket, vacuum pump gasket, and retimed injection.

Have a whole suspension refit planned for fall-break which starts after next week. Just bought a stahlwille ball joint removing press; hopefully I'll be able to get those stubborn lower ball joints out without too many persuasive words. I may need forum advice durring that process; so NOBODY's alowed to go anywhere for the entire week of 10-14!

I'm a preventative maintenance NUT!

ATLD

P.S> Does anyone else think that it's really sad that I know all the employes by name at my MB dealer's parts department; or what's sadder, that they know me by name (sadly this aspect isn't just confined to Mercedes dealers/shops)? By now, I can't call a single shop in my area without the owner recognizing my name and getting into these really long conversations. Makes it really hard to get price quotes.

Aaron · #10 10-04-2002, 06:28 PM

My '83 300SD has 242K on the clock and is still on the original chain. I have a new one plus rails and the tensioner which I am going to change at the 250K interval. A 300D I used to own ('83) was at 295K when I sold it and also was still on the original chain. Just check for stretch at valve adjustment intervals and if needed, replace it at that point. Since MB really didn't prescribe an interval for diesel chain replacement, I recommend to some people that 150K is the "safe" mileage to replace them (if they are new customers--because I don't know the maintenance history of their car, etc..) but what I will generally do is check the stretch and go from there. Many of my customers will just go ahead and do it at 150K just to be safe, I think I have pounded that "preventative maintenance" thing into their heads well!

ATLD · #11 10-05-2002, 01:22 AM

Well, I don't remember off hand what the chain stretch limit is, but when I checked mine (roughly) it was about 4.5 degrees off (crank was advanced). Figured that that was a bit too much to ignore, and poof; now I don't have to worry! Surprisingly, rolling on a new chain was the easiest thing I have yet done to my engine that I'd consider "serious". But I have to thank my dealership pals again, whose access to the correct tools really made the job easier.

Engine runs really/really smooth now, even at its 550 rpm low idle (purged/cleaned injectors with lubo-moly...too); though I have heard that the NA diesels have a thing for smooth idling vs. the average turbo diesel. I gueess that's because there is less control mechanisms to fail/ go out of tune. Really, wasn't that bad before, but I'm a striving perfectionist. I have heard that some member's of this forum are working to balance champaign glasses on their diesel's valve cover while it's running, not sure I'm there yet, but give me another year. I'll take a video and post it here when I do; and I will!

I'm sure that this chain was the orriginal, considering the stretch, but as for the other work, I hate those little drips and drops you find on your driveway, so there was no question there. Anyway, Delvac 1 is too expensive to leak out, even if it's 1qt/6mo(3500mi).

Now my engines ready for another 250k mi (I hope)!

ATLD
Adam

slowmoe · #12 10-06-2002, 08:00 AM

Timing Chain was replaced when the head gasket was replaced

CHAPP · #13 10-06-2002, 08:22 AM

Replace the chain when in doubt. Chain rails...don't forget them. My rails were old and cracked and my chain had slap in it. Chain slapped the old rails and cracked into pieces, and broke the chain and all the gears. Cam tower broke, but no Cam damage (most break). Even bent my valve cover, but no bent valves. Price Tag $2000. Replace the chain every 100K is what I read.

Stevo · #14 10-06-2002, 03:12 PM

I changed the timing chain on my daughters 240d and used a ball peen hammer and backed up the link with an auto body tool (heavy chunk of steel). The hardest part was putting the "side" plate on and taking it off, I had to fiddle around some to accomplich this as its a tight fit, an assitant is very helpful.

#15 10-06-2002, 04:48 PM

The chain in my 300SDL had 13+ deg of stretch at ~275K miles.

View Poll Results: Timing Chain replacement
Yes, I replaced my timing chain to be safe	6	26.09%
No, I have not and have no current problems	15	65.22%
No, I haven't and have had a chain failure or another engine failure	2	8.70%
I am not sure or I don't really care	0	0%
Voters: 23. You may not vote on this poll