That's tough luck.
 

I've never heard of an oil line failing from anything but being cut by the PS pulley due to failed engine mounts which cause the engine to settle.

Along with the vac pump spitting out bearings and breaking the timing chain or causing it to jump until the pistons lovingly touch the valves the failure of the oil cooling lines are what my nightmares are made of.

I put steel braided lines on my engine and replaced the vac pump with a brand new Pierburg. If I live five years after I begin driving this car I will replace both again.

What lines are people replacing the OEM ones with now? I've heard mixed reviews about the Cohline ones?

I recently replaced both upper and lower on my 300d. I was not happy with what I heard about the new ones.

So I used Goodyear Galaxy barrier hose. #12 I think. I crimped it on with a Chinese Mastercool knockoff tool.

Hope they don’t pop off.

I replaced my SD hoses in 2010. Forgot the brand but it wasn’t MB. They have small weeps now.

Thats a first....and horrible. RIP engine. :(

On my dad's old 300SD we had military grade custom lines made at a local shop that does reefer engine systems/work:

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/mbfor...t/100_2584.JPG

http://www.tglmarketinginc.com/mbfor...t/100_2565.JPG

Great Hoses There
 

pawoSD,

Those are the finest flexible parts of the oil cooler lines I have even seen. Could you please post more details and exact specs of those. I for one will definitely order a set from your local shop who made 'em up. I can braze the adapters myself.

I had a hydraulic shop do a set for my OM603, looked sorta like Paso's hoses there except they had new cooler end connectors in stock (have a bit less of a bend than the 617 iirc). $210 out the door and the guy rebuilt them while we were standing there in about 15 minutes. I'd personally recommend having them rebuilt rather than buying aftermarket ones if you aren't worried about them looking original. Being able to separate the lines at the hose is so much better than worrying about the threads coming off of the oil cooler and makes removing the engine that much easier. AN line is also an option, did that for a W116, but think the hydraulic shop's solution is better and not much more expensive, certainly far less time consuming.

Custom Hoses
 

I've used "Hose Man" , a chain .

Not for MB oil cooler hoses though .

That's a very doable job at most hydraulic hose shops, as mentioned. Many shops can rebuild the lines using the old fittings with new hoses and ferrules, if the fittings were not distorted during crimping when they were first built.

If not, they can make a line that works using a variety of adapters and/or some brazing.

OP's failure looks like an improperly assembled line where the hose parted ways with the fitting because the ferrule was not crimped tight enough. Sad to see, makes me cringe just imagining it.

Been around heavy equipment most of my life and most all lines I remember fail at the rubber hose part. The only times I had separation failures were from pre-fabbed hoses that came with certain replacement components. Luckily they were only small return lines.

I don't think the shop would do shipping/remote orders. We had to walk in with the parts then wait for it. Its a side biz of theirs. Their primary work is Thermoking reefer service/maintenance. It was also about 7-8 years ago that we had those made. No longer have the car sadly....it died from rust....engine along with those lines and cooler were pulled as a unit and sold.

It is very normal for a transmission to roll when in drive with the engine shut off.

If this is beyond your scope of knowledge, don't assume you know anything else about the nature of this failure or full extent of the damage.

Also, the ferrule and flare on the end of the hard line pictured are unlike any factory ones I've seen - might have been an aftermarket part to start with.

I had a local hydraulic hose shop do mine. They used the original ends with hose for forklift hydraulic fluid. They even put a fitting in the middle that let the line bend / swivel a little. Only took about 20 minutes.

I see two different crimp styles. If the one that blew is an aftermarket common version. I would take two clamps and a piece of stainless wire to rig a safety lines on that style if they were on my car.


Also doing your own line replacements at home with the safety wire will seriously reduce any chance of a blow off. Just clamps alone are not the best ideal.

Rubber changes in various ways over time. That can reduce clamp grip. With a safety wire it just cannot blow off. Very simple and cheap to do. I wanted to add that securing the safety clamp to the rubber hose can prevent older hoses blowing back off if the rubber has deteriorated where it is crimped.

Clamping aftermarket hose on is great. It is just there are no barbs on the clamps. Any seepage around the ends of the hose material is an indication that the original clamping pressure is being compromised. The outer rubber hose compresses easier than the internal area of the hose. So it is harder to estimate the true clamping pressure on it.

It is indeed beyond the scope of my knowledge as indicated by the question marks.

Would rolling in Drive with the engine seized be a cause for concern?

At higher speed (20 mph or so) you might get some engine braking with a seized engine and mb is unique in that up to 1991 they had a rear pump which allows tow-starting.


1st reason why rolling in drive is normal is because on your car the flywheel is NEVER connected directly to the transmission input shaft. When running it's constantly slipping (very slightly and that's where most of the heat is generated) modern transmissions have a lockup clutch built into the torque converter which engages at speed and it makes them more efficient


2nd reason is that to engage the gear by bands/clutches engine has to be running to generate pressure in the transmission front pump (pre 91 mb because of 2nd pump in the back can engage them by rolling at speed that's why these cars can be tow-started)

And the same for triple that like the transmission turning the equivalent of roughly 60mph while the motor is seized? Similar uneventful results of engine braking and a bit of heat? I just want to be thorough. I have no problem leaving that out of the parts hunt.