Tie rod ends groaning

[psaboic]

Hi folks,

Last week my steering started groaning after the car sits still for about 8 hours. It is not so much a groan as it is more like the sound a rubber part rubbing on metal sounds like. I finally got the car in the air yesterday and it appears to be coming from the left tie rod outer end. Probably a dry joint as the tie rod end has no provision for greasing it, and the sound goes away after a few minutes of driving.

Planning on replacing all the tie rod ends at the same time, but wondering if I should replace the center link and idler arm bolt while I am at it.

[Diseasel300]

Don't underestimate a bad ball joint making noise. It starts out as a sort of groan only the first few times the wheel is moved before going away. As the wear progresses, it gets louder and stays constant. Eventually turns into a popping/creaking noise.

If the steering linkage is all the same age, replace it all. The parts aren't expensive and it isn't a terrible job. Have a pickle fork handy to get the tie rods separated, if they've been in there a while they can really put up a fight.

[psaboic]

I'm thinking of just getting the pre assembled tie rods (both ends and adjusting sleeves), center link, idler arm, etc.....then slap it all in and get a decent alignment. I would like to be able to wait a few weeks for warmer/drier weather, but we shall see.

[Diesel911]

What ever your future plans are you can remove the tie rod nut and use one of the Autozone or other places rental tool to see if you can pop off the tie rod. Get into the boot and apply some grease. You are going to need something to remove the tie rod ends anyway. Might as well see if the free one is up to the job.

Replacing the various rod ends can result in you needing an front end alignment.

In the pic places like Autozone have the 2 shiny ones on the bottom. The small one is one for tie rods the larger is a pitman arm (steering box) puller.

HF stands for Harbor Freight in the pictures. The HF pitman arm press is brittle and I found some cracked in the packages hanging for sale so beware and don't expect much from it.

The upper left is a Harbor Freight tie rod puller. It has worked so far but I have not used it much. I tend to use the other ones.

To remove the Ball Joint from the control arm the one marked Mercedes is the real one for that job. The smaller OTC one is acutlly a pitman arm puller but is a good cheap alternative to the real Mercedes one or the copies of the Mercedes ones.

Lower Ball Joint Separator for a W123, OTC Pitman Arm tool
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/323469-lower-ball-joint-separator-w123.html

Note the smaller OTC pitman arm puller works for the control arm ball joint. I also bought the larger one but have not used it for anything.
Note that you can find used Snap-on versions of the OTC Pitman Arm Pullers on ebay.

The OTC pitman arm puller may or may not work on tie rod ends. It would depend on how wide the arm is that the ball joint goes through.

You can also buy a needle that has a grease zerk on it to stick through the boot an grease the joint. Put silicon sealant over the puncture area.

[t walgamuth]

With a grease needle you can squirt some lube into the ball joint boot, if the joint is not loose, and the groaning should quit. If you install the tie rod assemblies you can count the threads exposed and get it back in a good place so you are not too far off on the toe in.

[psaboic]

Just curious......would a good old fashioned pickle fork work to separate the tie rod ends from the center link and so on........

[Diseasel300]

Yes it will. You'll destroy the rubber boots, but if the joints are junk anyway who cares.

[psaboic]

I would only use a pickle fork if I was going to replace the joint/end anyway, otherwise I would try one of the less destructive presses/pullers.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by psaboic

Just curious......would a good old fashioned pickle fork work to separate the tie rod ends from the center link and so on........

I may not have noticed but I cannot remember reading of anyone using the Pickle Fork on the front control arm ball joint on a W123.

[barry12345]

If the joints still test tight. I would use a grease needle to inject some grease into them. I see no benefit in replacing a tight joint. Detectable movement sure replace it.

[Junkman]

I have purchased rubber boots for tie rods for not much money. Lift the front, remove the nut, install the boot and reassemble using a new nut if the original is a nylok. My local Ace hardware has a good selection which makes it easy.

[Junkman]

Can't edit on phone.

A couple of wacks on the knuckle usually loosens the tie rod. YouTube University has the destructions if needed.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by Junkman

Can't edit on phone.

A couple of wacks on the knuckle usually loosens the tie rod. YouTube University has the destructions if needed.

The double hammer using one hammer as an anvil against the eye end and beating on the other side with another hammer was widely discussed for several years and kind of faded away.
I tried it a couple of times with no success. Later I simply decided that since I have 4 running vehicles I should buy some of the tools to do the work.

I just did this last week on the Steering arm on a 86 chevy cavalier Strut to press the ball joint out. I used the mentioned Mercedes control arm ball joint press on it and it came off easily and was the easiest part of the job.

[Junkman]

I've had good results with my BFH which is a dead blow hammer. The small sledge works too but I use the other first as it is less likely to cause damage. The sledge could mess things up if you use a gorilla technique.

The hammer technique works easily on tie rods but hasn't been as helpful on ball joints. Using a tool to create pressure can help if there is room for the tool and hammer. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was.

[vwnate1]

The deal with the two hammers must needs be steel faced because what you;re doing (or trying to do) is create a specific harmonic vibration that shocks the snug taper fit into releasing .

It rarely requires a really hard bang .

Experiment with tapping it and increasing / decreasing the force of the blow and you'll notice it loosen with a click .

ALWAYS leave the nut in place loosely so if you miss you won't destroy the threads .

I used to prefer the castle nuts because you could flip them over .