e320 codes- that throw car into "LImp mode"
 

Just wondering if any CDI- pros happen to know how many different codes
will throw 05/06 CDI into Limp?

NON- transmission related codes...

I am experiencing a 2513-- which is related to Swirl flap motor and ??
Getting no acceleration or turbo from the CEL...

I am thinking of taking resistor to eliminate swirl motor...

Just a little disappointed by this... I thought I was avoiding LIMPS by staying away from the Newer Bluetecs... and buying the "Bulletproof" cdi

I hear EGR, MAF, ????? can also throw codes-- to LIMP

How many other can I look forward to?

Did you clean out your EGR valve and confirm it is operating correctly??

Was it throwing codes before you bought it?

A data point for you. With the CDI I bought in 2015, I drove 30,000 miles with no issues whatsoever. Then, within a period of six months, I dropped about $3000 (replaced an axle and an injection pump). Over the course of time, you will need to drop serious money into a CDI. They are great cars...but things start to go after 15 years and 175-200k miles.

My other CDI has needed nothing over 10,000 miles.

\\

Well-- that is NOT encouraging... many here have stated the CDI is one of the "Lowest Maint." cars in MB used car lineup.

I have NOT- due to weather and illness... checked the EGR... but reading more- I think this code is leading me to the swirl flap motor/swirl flaps/ sensor wire to the forementioned.... either way... I am getting more into INfORMATION gathering mode...

This $$$$ is starting to make me doubt the CDI/and lovers here... I was under impression that "codes" would NOT shut the CDI down ( although car IS drive able- in my Limp/no turbo) ...

OR- I go ALL IN... and pay for proper/EGR/Swirl flap delete... which would hopefully make my future experience more enjoyable... and eliminate many issues/codes...

That is why I asked the ? as the title of this ...

I expect to fix things on OLDER car--- just don't want re-occurring crap issues/limps

Unfortunately limp mode is a way of life for modern cars. Mandated by the EPA, so you don't keep driving it if the pollution controls are malfunctioning.

It's worse on the newer ones with DEF, if you run out of DEF you get 15 starts remaining and it counts down toward 0 every time you start it. You will be locked out at 0 starts until you put more DEF in. This too is EPA mandated.

Egr valve clean is easy and cheap.....it takes 30 minutes to complete.

yes- I understand that EGR clean might solve issues- short term... BUT - I am starting to realize that there are many related issues to this clean diesel -EGR/M55/swirl flaps/Dirty manifold... That it MIGHT just be prudent to eliminate ALL now... simple enough

Am I 'Over thinking this"

BUT- also want to know how many other Codes/Limps will be POTENTIALLY thrown...
Once I eliminate most/all issues with "CLEAN emissions" junk

I was possibly thinking about looking for one of these, but I know this is exactly what would happen to me too and that I would not enjoy dealing with it. I think 1995 is the newest diesel Mercedes I have any interest in dealing with.

FWIW....Of the MB diesels I've owned, five have been long term where I've been able to get a sense of cost of maintenance and repair. Two W124, one W210, and two W211. I've come to the conclusion that someone in my situation (some DIY, most things farmed out to indie) needs to budget 20 cents a mile to be safe. Maybe 15 cents a mile, but that's on the low side. It's an entirely different matter for guys who can do most of their own work.

If you can't stomach 20 cents a mile, then an aging MB diesel is a losing proposition. And I think this is likely just as true of the W211 as of any of its predecessors.

For me, I'm happy to spend the money. Because I enjoy cars that are not transportation appliances. My wife just got a brand new CR-V. It's perfect in every way. But is has no soul. So she can have it...and I'll drive the Benzes.

Shertex- appreciate your "budget/point of view"...

wts- for a better perspective-- what types of things are you including in your DIY skills/cost per mile?
I was budgeting around that $.15/mi.... but .20/mi really has me leaning away from this

I do agree- this car has Soul... BUT- I think there is more soul int he Beauty of 300sd versus this car

Would a nice w124 300d cost or budget as much as this e320 cdi?
What about a real low miles/nice 300sd?

MUCH older cars-- but almost no cpu/sensors/clean diesel crap

I change fluids and filters, modules, blower motors, etc... not a lot else. Oh, and I find good prices on parts since my indie lets me supply my own.

My W124 is perfect and low miles. Over the course of 44,000 miles it has cost about 20 cents a mile. So my point is: new or old, the budget is going to be about the same. My views have solidified over the course of 17 years of driving diesel MBs.

That- is about all I want to do on DIY- fluids/filters/shocks?/modules?

do you own scanner? if yes- which one?

Have you done EGR delete/emulator?

How did rocketchip on your other car work for u?

thx

iCarSoft MBII and an Xentry system. The former I can keep in the trunk...the latter gives full diagnostic (and some coding) capability. I'm glad I have both.

No, have not done EGR delete or emulator. Between the improved EGR valve on the 2006 (as compared to 2005) and the fact that I use Opti-lube in every tankful (thus the fuel burns cleaner), I decided not to worry about EGR.

Rocketchip tune on the W210 was great.

You may be overthinking it. Clean the EGR valve and clear codes. It may be end of the story. If not, move on to the next issue indicated by repeat code. Once I sorted the EGR valve on my '05, I've had NO other issues (routine maintenance (brakes, tires, oil changes excepted). My experience has been 90k to 155k miles.

I think the 05-06 CDIs are best diesels I've used. I really like'd the look of my W115, the W124 is great...reliable! The '05 W211 is a real pleasure to take cross country.....gobs of power, comfort, reliable and ....safe....excellent visibility and solid.

Not sure maintenance cost will be any lower on the W211.

Again, do EGR delete first. Chip tune is expensive. Stock vehicle with EGR delete is all you need.

Chris or Shertex- If I needed/bought a new EGR valve... would it be the "Improved version" - for sure?

The "tuner Indy" I am speaking to wants to... EGR delete/ eliminate swirl flaps/ remove egr cooler (says it makes sense- if we delete EGR- cooler could still crack and only leak coolant into motor)... says I will get 5-10% better MPG w/ delete/tune

I am getting 35 mpg on 40 mile Expressway trip... which seems really low- reading about others MPG on long trips