Gents, I'm about to undertake replacing the intake and exhaust manifold gasket. I would like to know what additional parts should be replaced at the same time, while I have these items disassembled



1983 300d turbo


Thanks


-Sev

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I don't know about what parts but when I removed one of the Studs that held the manifold on I found there is only 4 full threads holding it into the Cylinder head. That means you need take care not to over tighten the nuts.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

There are oil return pipe O-Rings that are easier to replace when the manifolds are off .

Two paper gaskets for the turbo oil inlet & outlet .

Maybe the boot at the bottom of the pipe ? .

Now's the time to slap on an non E.G.R. manifold combo.....

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

This would be the perfect time to intstall a pyrometer probe in the exhaust manifold.
Also it would be a good time install a block heater, or replace a damaged one.

PM me if you need a non-EGR intake and exhaust manifold set
I have an extra set from a W116 300SD.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Good to know. But usually that happens when the bolts are removed and then reinstalled. I don't think that's the case on my car.



I was actually thinking of replacing the bolts/studs with high quality steel replacements. I don't want to buy genuine Mercedes because who knows what the steel's quality is. Does anyone know of a brand and part number that I can just buy a replacement set of studs?



Also, the source of Mercedes recommends copper nuts. What would you say to that? Keep the factory nuts or replace with copper?

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I have an EGR block off plate that I installed a decade ago. Who knows whether it leaks or not. I should pull out my FLIR and turn on the car and see if heat is escaping.



I would be interested in knowning the oil return pip o-rings and paper gaskets and boot part numbers. If I may


Thanks

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I live in a warm climate, but the previous owner installed a block heater. I would like to remove it, but I don't know where it is.


I don't know what a pyrometer probe is or why it would be needed

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I wish I'da saved the part #'s, sorry .

All you needs do with the EGR plate is look at it ~ if you see _any_ black around the edges, it's leaking .

Unless you're Hot Rodding your engine, a pyrometer isn't much use .

I'd get a good used stud or anything else before new, the original stuff was top notch .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Block heater is on the PS of the block, above the starter and below the intake valve port for cylinder number 4.
No need to remove it if it isn't being used.
See Squiggle Dog's post below for a great photo.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3725498-post44.html


Pyrometer probe is a thermocouple, usually installed in the exhaust manifold (pre-turbo).
It is used to monitor the exhaust gas temperature (EGT).

A prolonged high EGT under load can melt your pistons.
Too high an EGT on engine shutdown (after a highway trip) can damage yor turbo oil seals.
See my post in the link below for photos of the pyrometer in a W116 300SD non-EGR exhaust manifold.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3397527-post46.html

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

I realize the O.P. is on a budget here but coated exhaust manifolds not only look great but reduce under hood temperatures sharply, always a good thing .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

When doing this procedure, be aware of the top secret bracket underneath the manifold that holds up the intake manifold. It is hardly visible. But, the intake won't come off if you don't remove it.

Well thank you. I'm sure I will figure out the p/n's by searching through a parts store's catalog, maybe this site's My EGR plate seems to be holding up. There is no black around the edges. IIRC, I put some kind of copper-based sealant on it while installing it. The person who sold it to me sent me a little tube of it. Yes I remember my mechanic told me that the original studs are good. I'm only afraid of them going 'in' to the head and leaving few threads exposed to lock a nut onto.

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Okay that's all good to know, thank you. I will leave the block heater in place. Someone who knew what they were doing probably installed it, and it doesn't seem to be doing any harm

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Who says I'm on a budget I have seven mercedes benzes and they all run Okay, you want to give me some ideas on coated exhaust manifolds? If I take the manifold out, I want to scrub the insides to get the grit out. Maybe I can dip it in diesel fuel or EvapoRust and let it sit for a week. What kind of coating should I then use? I really want to coat it, but unlike my 190e 2.3-16, it's not headers, and you don't really see it when you pop the hood. So maybe I just clean the soot from inside.

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Is this bracket TS//SCI? If so, I may be read on to that compartment In all seriousness, I will hav eto look for this bracket under the manifold. I should be able to figure it out. But maybe you can show me a picture of it that someone took from under the car so I know what to feel for with my hands Thanks!

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