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  #31  
Old 04-09-2020, 04:58 PM
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Then all fine. The metal shavings might be from the retainer tooth digging into the valve groove..and then also the adjuster nuts lose height with time beaten by the retainers.
Once again clean the oil in the rocker arm assemblies' bolt holes..then valve adjustment...

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  #32  
Old 04-09-2020, 05:18 PM
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Okay cool, thank you - I'm a very detail orientated person (read: I sweat the small stuff obsessively).

Regarding the fit of the seals, I'm using the closed end of a 14mm box wrench to press them down. There's no real indication that I've hit any spot, but using cylinder 2 as a reference point, the new seals on cylinder 1 appear to be equivalent height. Ditto for 3 vs 4.

I see people using all manner of devices -from a crowbar to a pipe bushing. Approximately how much force is required?
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  #33  
Old 04-09-2020, 05:26 PM
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Not much,they just somehow "pop" into place(metal-rubber Elring's). Now the design have been changed thru the years ...and this "feeling " might be different with different designs/manufacturers(form easily detectable to...next to non-existent). Don't worry too much.
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  #34  
Old 04-09-2020, 08:26 PM
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With a firm push downward by hand they should be in place. Compare it to the position of the old ones and you'll be good to go.
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  #35  
Old 04-09-2020, 10:25 PM
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Thanks friends -exactly what I did.

Just got back from a test drive. Nothing blew up... so far so good.
Despite torqueing to spec and triple checking everything, I kept having nightmarish visions of rocker arms dislodging and adjustment nuts working loose.

Now I guess we’ll see if this diminishes a little smoke and cuts back on higher rpm, highway consumption.

Something I was concerned about and wouldn’t mind an explanation for, if anyone might enlighten me:
While making room for the rocker arms, I was really careful to set the height of the valve cap nut as close as possible to what it was when I removed it. While hand turning the crank, is there a scenario whereby the cap is too high (valve is too tight) or cap is too low (valves are too loose) that might damage either the piston or cam lobe?
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  #36  
Old 04-09-2020, 10:39 PM
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No damage done to anything. Those engines are so tough I've had two with timing chain failure that broke the camshaft supports and neither bent a valve.

If you want to be extra thorough, re-check the valve adjustment in a couple hundred miles.

Good luck and congrats!!!

Just noticed, this is my 1,000 th post... approaching junior member status!!!
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  #37  
Old 04-10-2020, 12:34 PM
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I guess I was concerned about impeding either the cylinder or the cam lobe.
I'm still not super clear on how this thing articulates.

Is it possible to have a valve that's so tight that the cam shaft cannot turn?
Conversely, is it possible to have a valve that is so loose it prevents the piston from rising?
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  #38  
Old 04-10-2020, 05:08 PM
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Post SWARF & Niggly Questions

This is why you need a magnetic drain plug .

No, if you get to zero valve to cam clearance you just begin to loose compression and the valve will burn .

If there's too much clearance the cam timing run late and you'll hear more valve lash noise .

Congratulations ! .

*do* check and re adjust in less than 1,000 miles .
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  #39  
Old 04-10-2020, 07:07 PM
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Thanks Nate.

The recheck is for valves or rocker torque?
Before this one, I adjusted lash about 8k miles ago.

Do you recheck at 1k after every adjustment you do?


Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
This is why you need a magnetic drain plug .

No, if you get to zero valve to cam clearance you just begin to loose compression and the valve will burn .

If there's too much clearance the cam timing run late and you'll hear more valve lash noise .

Congratulations ! .

*do* check and re adjust in less than 1,000 miles .
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  #40  
Old 04-10-2020, 11:11 PM
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Post Routine Valve Lash

I meant check the lash and re adjust it as necessary .

I do them every 3,000 miles when first I get a new to me engine then as soon as the stop needing minor tweaking, I do them every 10,000 miles / 12 months .

Its not unusual to need to do three valve adjustments before they remain set .

I bet the metal bits you found were from over tightening the lock nuts .
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  #41  
Old 04-11-2020, 01:06 PM
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I see, you meant that more generically.
I’ve done my valves many times over the past four years. I thought this advice pertained to replacing the valve stem seals… roger.
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  #42  
Old 04-12-2020, 07:23 PM
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No ;

I mean that because you took it apart it will need re checking in a sort time .
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #43  
Old 04-12-2020, 11:21 PM
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∆∆∆ Do another adjustment in 1,000 miles as Nate suggests as things get seated and find their position. Continue to do short interval adjustments until they hold their adjustment, meaning when you recheck almost no adjustment is needed. This could be 1-3 more times but it is what makes the difference between running ok and running well.

These motors should announce themselves upon arrival via a sharp clacking noise when dialed in and with good compression. When they are flat quiet that is a bad sign.

Good luck!!!
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  #44  
Old 04-13-2020, 12:20 AM
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Oh -alright then!

Since I’ve finally discovered a method for turning the engine at the crank without removing the fan shroud/destroying my right forearm, I will happily do so.
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  #45  
Old 04-13-2020, 11:30 PM
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Post Routine Valve Adjustment

I use a 23 MM (?might be 24MM) I *think* open end wrench on the power steering pump pulley ~ if the V - Belt slips just reach under neath with your right hand and squeeze it gently until the engine begins to turn .

No matter what, DO NOT TURN IT BACKWARDS IF YOU TURN TOO FAR ! .

FWIW, all engines with adjustable valves should be adjusted and re checked every 1,000 miles until they remain in adjustment, then you can default to the normal 10,000 mile / 12 month regimen .

As noted above, A NOISY VALVE IS A HAPPY VALVE .

Older American engines with clakkety hydraulic lifters can often be made quieter if not entirely silent by careful adjustment with the engine running, a messy job but well worth the effort IMO .

There are tools you can buy or better, make cheaper at home to reduce the messy aspect of this job .

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