Greetings,

Most of the 76 240D's suspension components have been replaced and the result is truly magical. The car feels incredibly crisp and drives like a sports car!

My attention has now shifted to the only remaining rubber wear and tear items underneath the car - the prop shaft and drive shaft axles. A couple questions for you:

1) Does a kit exist to replace the drive shaft axle boot covers (vs the entire axle)?
2) I know the prop shaft couplings need replacing. Any other wear items worth replacing while we're down there?

Thanks in advance!

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Why I will never do business with "DieselKraut" again

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I used Astoria Flexx boots on a 123 with great results. Installed them with an Astro Pneumatic manual installer. THAT was a wrestling match.

About the driveshaft, before doing anything, matchmark the two halves to keep orientation/balance. Renew the center support bearing and hanger while doing the flex discs. Also try to find a dust boot that goes over the driveshaft splines and the centering bushing on the trans end.

While the driveshaft is out, confirm that the nut on the transmission flange is tight.

If the diff pinion seal is leaking it's a good time to change it, if dry leave it alone.

Pay close attention to spacers in the center driveshaft hanger, they need to go back as they came out.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

1. Yes but you will have to grind the can off and then crimp a new one on.


2. before removing the prop shaft mark the 2 shafts together. When you put them back together they have to go into the same position if not then you will get a vibration. MB didn't mark shafts until 82 or 83

check the u-joint, if it's notchy then you will need to get the driveshaft rebuilt.

big nut torque is only about 20 - 25 nm and driveshafts should slide in and out with it tightened

and check the centering bushings at each end of the driveshaft and the center mount and bearing

With the Astoria boots the can on the axle stays intact. Clean the exterior of the can very well, cut the clamps, cut the boots off, clean the joint, stretch the boot over the can using the tool, grease the joint and clamp the boot in place.

Sliding the boot over the can is a wrestling match but doable. The results were excellent.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Thanks for the advice - so far I have the following :

1) Drive Shaft Bearing
2) Drive Shaft Centre Bushing
3) Flex Discs X2
4) Center Bearing Support
5) Center Bearing
6) Differential Pinion Seal (if leaking)
7) Rear Differential bearing
8) Axle Boot Kit (Outer) X2
9) Axle Boot Kit (Inner) X2

Will I need to replace the following as well?

1) differential output seal
2) differential tapered roller bearing

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I'd leave all of the diff bearings alone unless they were making noise. The diffs are robust, just keep it serviced. Same for the diff seals.

May want to have the seals for long term future stock though.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

I would not say the mb sedans of this era handle like a sports car but after they stop leaning they will pull a corner pretty impressively. The steering is very precise and brakes are very easy to modulate to avoid lockup.

If you were used to American sedans of the era then, yes it will feel like a sports car.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

This could be a repeat as I did not read everyone else's posts.

You cannot stretch the stock type axle boots over the Cans on the axles.

If you have annual axles (ones that have bolts on the differential side) you can se the Stock type boots or the Astoria Boots without stretching them.
To see a thubnil of an annular axle look at post #23
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/396949-81-240-d-axles.html
If you want to use the stock boots on the homokinetic axles (has a can on both ends and no bolts) it is more expensive and you need to remove the crimp off of one of the Cans and use a hydraulic press to press that end apart. When assembled you need to put a new crimp on the Can.

You need to decide if you want to use CV Joint Grease or the proper Oil in the axle joint.

If you choose for grease some of the boot kits don't come with enough grease and you need to get more at your local autoparts store.

I had bought a bunch of 12 Doman Boot kits and have twice stretched them over the axles cans. The first time the boots lasted about 5 years and started surface cracking. So rebooted the again with Dorman boots.
However since that time one of our members had issues with the Doman boots ripping during installation so that leaves only Astoria Boots as known reliable ones that our members have used.

Lemforder makes good quality Flex Joints for the Drive Shaft and each end of the Drive Shaft also has a centering bearing that needs to be inspected (also grease goes inside) and or replaced.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

This is about the 2 seals that go into the Differential that seal the Axles. When I installed new seals I cannot remember if it happened to one of both of them but the Spring that is on the inside that goes around the lip of the seal popped out when I hammered that seal in. It defied all attempts for me to get the spring back over the lip when I tried to do that with the
seals installed.

The real tool for installing the seal goes in and puts tension on the lips of the seal so that won't happen. When I did it again I found a large socket to shove into the Seal but since I used to be a mechanic I had a 3/4 drive socket set where I found the large socket. Not everyone has that.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Was taught this by an old Benz, highly respected tech...to prevent the springs from jumping out of a seal to pack grease or Vaseline in the spring cavity.

Same guy showed me how to save an old seal when new ones weren't available. Remove the spring from the seal, it twists apart at the joint, open it up, shorten the one end, reconnect and reinstall the spring. The shortened spring squeezes the seal tighter.

The knowledge and methods these guys had was priceless.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

It is a good idea. Use Grease as Vaseline liquefies fast in a warm room or temp.
I worked as a mechanic for 18 years and never had an issue with the spring piping out and have never been told or seen anyone use grease to hold the spring in.
However, the differential seals were the largest lip seals I have installed that I can remember.

In any event do something to prevent them from coming out. Anyway now I know why many seal driving tools have and area that the lip slides over and lip gets tensioned.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

From what I can see underneath the car, there is no visible sign of a leaking differential anywhere. The goal here is to renew everything that is worn out after 44 years, so with that said, what would you replace from the 11 items listed above?

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I wouldn't touch a non-leaking diff, just keep fresh quality oil in it. Same goes for axle shaft boots.

The driveshaft parts do wear and/or crack. I'd replace the discs for sure if cracking and the center support bearing and hanger.

If the intent is to keep the car long term, I would purchase the diff seals and 5 or 6 Astoria axle boots to have when needed. The extras because they can tear during install or if you make make a mistake trimming the excess rubber. They were not expensive and gave good results.

Head gaskets are getting hard to find for 108 six cylinders others will follow. It's just a personal decision of buy now or try to find later.

Also consider sourcing a spare primary oil filter/screen, they can crack with age.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

Don't trim the Axle Boots till after they are stretched over the Cans.

Be sure you can remove the differential fill plug before you drain the differential.

I think it was already mentioned but keep the Axle Spacers with the individual axle.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I intend to keep the car till I can't drive anymore (I'm 40), and also to purchase the OE axle repair kits from the dealer. So far I have:


1) Drive Shaft Bearing
2) Drive Shaft Centre Bushing
3) Flex Discs X2
4) Center Bearing Support
5) Center Bearing
6) Axle Boot Kit (Outer) X2
7) Axle Boot Kit (Inner) X2
8) Differential seals X2

I'm not sure my specialist has the crimping tool. I was planning on sending the axles in with the boot kits to an axle rebuilding service.

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Why I will never do business with "DieselKraut" again

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