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  #1  
Old 04-09-2020, 09:32 PM
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Question Catalytic Converter or Diesel Particulate Filter?

Recently my 2008 Mercedes Benz E320 Bluetec issued a engine light and when scanned gave the codes: P0471 and P0242F both related to DPF restriction.
As this car had an unsuccessfully cleaned DPF I then decided to buy a new one to have it replaced. The new DPF was sold by and accredited MB auto parts store which sold a part with two numbers on it: one sticker with P# A 211 490 07 81. In the same part was also engraved P# A 211 490 30 36.
Both numbers with the MB logo and "Made in Germany" on it.
This part is connected directly to a turbo down to the exhaust pipe.
Today when the exhaust repair shop was working on it the mechanic found another accessory in line after the new DPF which seems more to be the real DPF. This accessory, similar to a "catalytic converter" has two small (6 mm) stainless tube and one sensor (?) connected to it. Also from this part is where the two exhaust pipes (muffler?) goes to the rear end of the car.
Is this accessory the real DPF or both of them work together as DPF?
When I was to buy the DPF who was installed today, I called a MB dealer parts dept. and they told me that I was buying the right part and also they said that "DPF and Catalytic converter" are the same thing on MB cars.
I know that the part installed today has a filter inside because it is very visible when looking inside.
Now I am confused if my installed part is or not the real DPF and also not knowing what part is that after the new one installed today.
Can someone help me to identify these parts and let me know if I installed the correct part to resolve my issue with the restrict DPF?
The mechanic cleared the "engine light " but it came back with the same DPF codes.
The two pictures are from the part in question, not the one installed today.

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Catalytic Converter or Diesel Particulate Filter?-img_20200409_152627898_hdr.jpg   Catalytic Converter or Diesel Particulate Filter?-img_20200409_152618781.jpg  
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Old 04-10-2020, 06:09 AM
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The terminology is somewhat convoluted in my opinion. I had an 09 in the shop with plugged dpf and both items that you have pictured ended up having to be replaced.
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Old 04-10-2020, 06:46 AM
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Hoping this picture and component description helps.

Skippy

GF14.40-P-2010GZ Component Description For Diesel Particulate Filter
ENGINE 642 in MODEL 164.8 /1
with CODE (474) Particulate filter up to Model Year 2008 / YoM 07 ENGINE 642 in MODEL 463 up to 31.5.12



Shown on model 164




18 Primary catalytic converter
19 Oxidation catalytic converter
21 Muffler
114 Diesel particulate filter (DPF)

Location
The DPF is located at the center at the vehicle underfloor.


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  #4  
Old 04-10-2020, 06:44 PM
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The DPF will always have two small tubes on it, one before, and one after. Both tubes connect to the differential pressure sensor, which senses the pressure difference from the inlet and outlet of the DPF. The DPF may have one or two oxygen sensors on it as well. A catalytic converter does not have the small tubes or pressure sensor.
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Old 04-10-2020, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
The DPF will always have two small tubes on it, one before, and one after. Both tubes connect to the differential pressure sensor, which senses the pressure difference from the inlet and outlet of the DPF. The DPF may have one or two oxygen sensors on it as well. A catalytic converter does not have the small tubes or pressure sensor.

Thanks, very useful information.
Then I was told wrong by the Mercedes Benz dealer. He told me that the DPF was the #18+19 in this schematic.
Can some of the tubes be clogged and not letting the sensor to read the pressure difference and not allowing the DPF self cleaning not to work?
Anyway, I should then remove and clean or replace the DPF who has the tubes on it, correct?
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Old 04-10-2020, 08:54 PM
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No, he is calling it the name MB put on it. When I was trying to help customer I found their naming quite confusing. You will find both items plugged.

How many miles are on the car?
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Old 04-10-2020, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
No, he is calling it the name MB put on it. When I was trying to help customer I found their naming quite confusing. You will find both items plugged.

How many miles are on the car?
120150 Miles and I drive it 54 miles highway every day.
Which one is easier to clean, the first or the second one?
The first one I just replaced fora new one.
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Old 04-11-2020, 04:19 PM
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DPF

I just yesterday removed the DPF from an R320 for cleaning. I have done this one before, and it needed cleaning again. It's not too hard to remove. The pressure sensor needs to be removed prior to pulling the DPF from the vehicle, as it won't fit between the manifold and body heat shield. As before, I used a pressure washer and compressed air to clean it. It worked well.
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Old 04-11-2020, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
I just yesterday removed the DPF from an R320 for cleaning. I have done this one before, and it needed cleaning again. It's not too hard to remove. The pressure sensor needs to be removed prior to pulling the DPF from the vehicle, as it won't fit between the manifold and body heat shield. As before, I used a pressure washer and compressed air to clean it. It worked well.

ROLLGUY,
How many miles on the R320 when you first cleaned the DPF and how many since?
Is the clogging a function of drive styles or...?

Skippy


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Old 04-11-2020, 05:10 PM
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
I just yesterday removed the DPF from an R320 for cleaning. I have done this one before, and it needed cleaning again. It's not too hard to remove. The pressure sensor needs to be removed prior to pulling the DPF from the vehicle, as it won't fit between the manifold and body heat shield. As before, I used a pressure washer and compressed air to clean it. It worked well.
Glad to know that you did this job.
Did you flush through the inlet and outlet, correct?
Did you used only straight water or leave it soaking with some kind of solvent/soap ?
This is what I am thinking to do also. This part is very expensive.
I read about people cutting the DPF in two pieces and then welding back after cleaning but I think this is too much work and requires a good welder to weld stainless steel.

Thanks for share your experience.
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Old 04-11-2020, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkippyJasper View Post
ROLLGUY,
How many miles on the R320 when you first cleaned the DPF and how many since?
Is the clogging a function of drive styles or...?

Skippy


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We got the R320 with about 130K miles, and it gave a soot content too high fault code soon afterward. That was about a year ago. It recently gave the same code, but along with a low boost code. The car has no power, and we think it has a boost leak somewhere (not from a clogged DPF). I realized I may not have needed to clean the DPF, as it still has no power. Once the boost leak is fixed, it should not throw any DPF related codes.
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Old 04-11-2020, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyko46 View Post
Glad to know that you did this job.
Did you flush through the inlet and outlet, correct?
Did you used only straight water or leave it soaking with some kind of solvent/soap ?
This is what I am thinking to do also. This part is very expensive.
I read about people cutting the DPF in two pieces and then welding back after cleaning but I think this is too much work and requires a good welder to weld stainless steel.

Thanks for share your experience.
Here is the thread from over a year ago:http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/397140-diy-dpf-diesel-particulate-filter-cleaning-2009-r-class-om642.html
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Old 04-11-2020, 05:33 PM
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Yes, I saw your thread about cleaning. Great topic and very informative.
I also liked the idea about flush from outlet to inlet, which is the opposite way that the gases come from the engine. That makes a lot of sense.
Great job.
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Old 04-11-2020, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
We got the R320 with about 130K miles, and it gave a soot content too high fault code soon afterward. That was about a year ago. It recently gave the same code, but along with a low boost code. The car has no power, and we think it has a boost leak somewhere (not from a clogged DPF). I realized I may not have needed to clean the DPF, as it still has no power. Once the boost leak is fixed, it should not throw any DPF related codes.
No power, won't go above 3rd gear, can't make 45 mph downhill (in other words drives like an automatic 240D) = classic limp mode.

Do a visual check on the VNT actuator, the turbo vanes might be stuck. Easiest way to do this is cycle the key on and off (to the run position but don't start it), you should be able to see the linkage arm moving up and down.

Also check for silly things like the silver pipe from the turbo outlet into the discharge muffler at the left front, that joint is easy to get wrong when putting together. Mine was like that and it wouldn't open up all the time but boy when it did you could sure hear it hissing.

And the one that really gets people, the charge air temperature sensor on the back of the mixing chamber falls out, clip gets busted, o-ring shot, etc. This opens up about a 3/4 inch hole in the back of the mixing chamber and just dumps all your boost to atmosphere.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/403465-om642-vnt-turbo-actuator-issues.html
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2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

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Old 04-11-2020, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
No power, won't go above 3rd gear, can't make 45 mph downhill (in other words drives like an automatic 240D) = classic limp mode.

Do a visual check on the VNT actuator, the turbo vanes might be stuck. Easiest way to do this is cycle the key on and off (to the run position but don't start it), you should be able to see the linkage arm moving up and down.

Also check for silly things like the silver pipe from the turbo outlet into the discharge muffler at the left front, that joint is easy to get wrong when putting together. Mine was like that and it wouldn't open up all the time but boy when it did you could sure hear it hissing.

And the one that really gets people, the charge air temperature sensor on the back of the mixing chamber falls out, clip gets busted, o-ring shot, etc. This opens up about a 3/4 inch hole in the back of the mixing chamber and just dumps all your boost to atmosphere.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/403465-om642-vnt-turbo-actuator-issues.html
Thanks jay_bob. The first thing I checked was the charge pipe Orings (at turbo and muffler), and replaced them. Still no power. For some reason, I could not find the charge air temp sensor on this car. I had that exact problem on the '09 E320 that I changed the oil cooler seals on. This R320 seems to be cluttered around that area, and no room for the sensor. I will check again, but more thoroughly this time. If all else fails, I will check the turbo vane actuator.

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