Hello, and thanks for reading.
For a 1980 300td, I either need a new radiator or a new thermoplastic top section. I like the idea of the latter, so that I don't have to get mixed up in disconnecting the ATF cooler lines.
I've never bought a radiator before, and am on a tight budget. Any advice?
Does anyone in SE Massachusetts have anything for sale that might suit my needs?
Cheers,
Brad

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1980 300TD

Recommend you purchase an original Behr unit only. They still make them for the W123 (W115 owners have to rebuild their units sadly).

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Why I will never do business with "DieselKraut" again

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-used-parts-sale-wanted/378935-why-i-will-never-do-business-dieselkraut-again.html

Buy a new rad, or if your on a super tight budget go fetch one from a JY, Craigslist part out, or buy a used one in the forum.

An all aluminum rebuild would be nice but too expensive

The top and bottom of the radiator deteriorates,the aluminium also,hardens and becomes
brittle,heat dissipation lessens,at what point is the radiator no longer serviceable ???
Professional cleaning,the rods that push out the scale must be a tight fit,they wear and
are not usually replaced often enough to insure a quality job.
What does one do? Buy a new one if poss. Nissens radiators seem to work well,and less
pricey.

2011 was the last time I replaced the radiator on a W123 617.xyz. I chose Behr. It gave me a chuckle to see the flati-ish clearly ground down area on the top of the radiator: That is where the 3-pointed M-B star was once placed.

If you cracked off the small plastic nipple/tube at the top of the radiator there is a fix for that.

As far as cooling goes you mixed up the ATF connections it does not matter.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

What's wrong with your rad exactly?

If its any of the hose fittings, they can be repaired if you are up to it and the radiator is good otherwise.

I've never seen anyone selling end tanks. Fabbed ones by a shop will be expensive.

ATF lines as mentioned are not directional and AFAIR the line lengths will keep you from misplacing them anyway.

Used can work but is a crapshoot, could last you many years or could pop a tank or spring a leak tomorrow. Could also be blocked internally to varying degrees with no way to check.

If you are keeping the car I recommend investing in a new rad. Behr and Nissens are GTG.

If you replace the rad suggest you do a citric acid flush prior. Cleans the system and gunk may end up in the rad you are replacing so less chance the replacement rad gets blocked up prematurely.

For my 1982 300TD I bought a Nissen radiator on Ebay. Was pretty cheap and fit well. It's been on for a few years now without leaking. Transmission lines didn't dump much fluid. It was a fairly easy job.

Mainly it is the connector for the upper hose. I've had various fixes (jb weld is what works, for a few years now. But I also suspect the radiator may not be very efficient -- even with a new water pump and thermostat I'm not too happy with how high the temperature readings are.

I may try the citric acid flush before I do much of anything else, assuming my latest repair continues to hold.

Thanks for all your replies and advice!

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1980 300TD

Do the Transmission Lines screw into the Nissan Radiator with no issues?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I seem to always focus on the negative side sometimes. It has been along time like 8 years or so but when people have done the citric acid flush a few have had core/freeze plugs leak or worse the Heater Core leak after the Flush.
If you are working and going to do the flush plan on another ride to work just in case.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Don't mean to be discouraging, but if your rad is old and busted, forget the flush. You likely won't save much $$ by flushing, washing out with distilled water, then refilling with coolant. All that effort and $$ to still have an old rad with limited life remaining.... Reality is, once the plastic starts getting brittle, developing spider cracks, breaking bits off, etc, it on borrowed time before it causes a "real" problem. Remember, there's pressurized coolant in the rad, so it's constantly under stress. If it ever blows out or has a neck fracture, you'll be overheating within a minute or two.

If you really want to tinker on the cheap, drain the system into a clean bucket, save/reuse the coolant, disconnect the hoses to the rad so it's isolated from the rest of the system. From there use a garden hose and forward and backward flush it.

In my case, they did!

Agree. If you're keeping the radiator, don't waste time with the flush.

As someone who just did this job (only difference being I had no choice but to rebuild my radiator), I recommend the following:

1) Buy a new Behr. They're not expensive.
2) Citric acid flush (don't forget to turn your heat to maximum for your heating core)
3) Replace oil cooler hoses (try to source genuine MB if possible)
4) Use Blue coolant -(G48 with glysantin). Old timer mechanics swear by that stuff and it really kept my system corrosion free for 44 years.
5) Sand down and treat the aluminum housings with anti corrosive gel. Don't just put the hoses back on.
6) Replace all the hoses (including the short hose)
7) Use worm drive hose clamps.
8) If you can afford it, change the water pump with an OE Mercedes unit. Use stainless steel bolts this time when installing.

Here's my thread on this subject incase you're interested. I can share that the heating/ cooling system works like new, even in 32 degrees F, and that there has been zero issues since.

__________________
Why I will never do business with "DieselKraut" again

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-used-parts-sale-wanted/378935-why-i-will-never-do-business-dieselkraut-again.html

Thanks I have been curious about that for many many years but always forgot to ask.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel