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  #16  
Old 07-04-2020, 05:27 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 175
When replacing master cylinder,most the time not necessary to bleed complete system.
Here"s how: bench bleed master,install,just snug lines have helper pump up,open one line
fluid squirt out,close before no pressure,helper releases but quickly,waits 3-4 seconds
pumps up again,repeat,do this untill no air comes out open line. do next line.
What happens: pushing air out when line is open,when pedal is released quickly and line is closed pulls air that is near by back into master to be bleed again.
Nice hard pedal,test drive.

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  #17  
Old 07-04-2020, 05:31 PM
1985 190d
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: canadian border vermont
Posts: 511
I bleed brakes myself with a device like this
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769089
Its a hose with a check valve that lets you pump out fluid at the bleeder but not let air in when you stop pumping. No helper required. I also put a block of wood under the brake pedal to keep from getting the master cylinder into the crusty part of its bore.

For a complete flush of the passenger rear caliper i like to exhaust 12 oz of fluid.
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  #18  
Old 07-04-2020, 08:34 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 4,004
A pressure bleeder is ~$25 or you can make one. There are plenty of instructions available online.

You will be doing brakes multiple times and frequently will be doing brake related things that are much more involved than simple "pad slapping" that many McBrake shops do. The $59.99 jobs that make buying a bleeder seem expensive only cover pads.

Times where you need to repack the bearings, change calipers or master or rotors or even flush and replace the fluid all cost more. Many shops are simply using inexperienced, low paid grunts with wrenches that people allow to work on their vehicles thinking a "professional" is handling it.

With DIY, you also get to decide the quality of parts installed and not rely on AutoZoo et al.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. Probably up for sale in the fall 2020 still have it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Waiting on shop to do minor but more than I can do rust.
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  #19  
Old 07-04-2020, 08:41 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 3,199
PM me if you need some help and advice. Bleeding brake should be easy, with one person or a helper.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #20  
Old 07-04-2020, 11:12 PM
Grom
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 264
Quote:
Originally Posted by hercules View Post
The master cyl. reservoir can have more than two sections,and very hard to see fluid level
in most rear section.Must fill all most to very top to get the rear most to fill,and must refill a number of times.
This.

I owe you a beer, sir. I got it, thanks to this tidbit.

According to all the guides, it instructed me to keep the master cylinder 'Half-full'. However, with these, there's that divider that won't allow the rear brakes to get fluid unless the cylinder is super-full, and even then, through a pin hole.
So, I had ran half of the MC dry, and kept it topped up, but wasn't filling that one side. I spent 4 hours today pulling air through an empty MC....
I feel stupid, but got it done.

Side note, at first this design seemed stupid, but now it seems like a fail-safe in case the fluid gets really low, at least you have brakes up front. Am I correct in this assumption?

Thanks again to all.
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  #21  
Old 07-04-2020, 11:37 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,560
You owe hercules not just any beer but one of his choice at the correct temperature

Don't feel stupid, many would have thrown in the towel. You persisted.

Yes that is why the divider is there, on master cylinders with a full size top the problem would have been obvious, not the case here. Look into building your own pressure bleeder you won't regret it!

Anything next on the agenda now that you've taken a brake?
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Does a Caddy stretch? No, but a Mercedes bendz.
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  #22  
Old 07-04-2020, 11:55 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 175
Glad I could help. How is it that I know this,you got it,happened to me,called

EXPERIENCE.
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  #23  
Old 07-05-2020, 12:38 AM
Grom
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 264
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugar Bear View Post
You owe hercules not just any beer but one of his choice at the correct temperature

Don't feel stupid, many would have thrown in the towel. You persisted.

Yes that is why the divider is there, on master cylinders with a full size top the problem would have been obvious, not the case here. Look into building your own pressure bleeder you won't regret it!

Anything next on the agenda now that you've taken a brake?
I might just have to! Tierods are next, but in a few weeks. I need a while to finally just drive and enjoy the darn thing.

Hercules, glad I'm not the only one
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  #24  
Old 07-05-2020, 12:50 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,560
If it is because of the boots they can be replaced; but, if the tie rods are worn...got to mine in time just did boots.

Start soaking the sleeves and nuts repeatedly weeks in advance you'll be happier.

Good luck!!!
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  #25  
Old 07-05-2020, 01:01 AM
Grom
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 264
Now there's a thought..

But, all my tierod boots are shot, and I get some wheel shake above 70mph so I assume the rods need total replacement?
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  #26  
Old 08-20-2020, 09:38 PM
Grom
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 264
Hi all, bringing this thread back with a related issue:

One of the soft brake lines I installed is leaking where it screws into the hard line. I have tried cranking it down pretty hard (with the proper flared wrenches) but it still leaks.

The other side, I was able to just snug it down and there's no issues.

I always though thread sealant was a no-go, but Uncle Kent has a kit for this job (of course) and the kit includes a liquid thread sealant.

Assuming using liquid thread sealant is ok, what kind do I need?

Thanks!
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  #27  
Old 08-20-2020, 10:13 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 175
Here"s a tip that might help,be sure fittings are clean,apply brake fluid to ends of fittings,
tighten snugly,loosen,re-tighten,loosen re-tighten about ten times,tighten good recheck
for leaks. If there is a slight mismatch of angles this will help to bring together.
Be sure to check closely the fitting ends,for cracks,pits or scaring,may need to use a magnifying glass to check.
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  #28  
Old 08-20-2020, 11:36 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,888
Slide back the nut and examine the flare and line. If the flare is distorted or the line broken, you'll never get it to seal.
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  #29  
Old 08-21-2020, 01:02 PM
resto108's Avatar
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Wichita
Posts: 372
If I'm not mistaken, the thread sealant in the kit is basically anti seize. It doesn't seal anything because the sealing surface is metal female flare to metal male flare. What it does do is enable you to loosen this fitting 10 years from now or whatever.
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  #30  
Old 08-21-2020, 04:30 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 38,262
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugar Bear View Post
Calipers are side specific and can be put on the wrong sides. Are both bleeder screws at the top of the caliper?

Is the reservoir full of fluid?

Did the reservoir run dry?
If yes it can take a lot of bleeding to get the air out.

Cap on or off? On, but try this, leave it off fill the reservoir, open the bleeder a lot, wait a few minutes to see if it will gravity bleed. It should. Raising the front of the car would help gravity bleeding. If it gravity bleeds follow up with a thorough bleed. I don't like mityvac methods, prefer pressure bleed first, then pump the pedal next.

Good luck!!!
Mine will do that. I takes awhile but it does work but with no pressure bleeder I have always left the caps off so I can monitor the brake fluid level.

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